Buck-strider question

Lenny_Goofoff

Lenny_Goofoff

Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
1,725
Well possibly it belongs to Buck forum but I posted there and have no replies :grumpy:
Last year I bought Buck Strider Tarani (the model w/G10 scales)
Unfortunately, they only come with half-serrated blade (and I can't get acustomed to it).
Yesterday I broke and ordered Taccom model (which sports plain blade as a tradeoff).

now the question - if I swap blades to get best of both worlds )) will they fit?
or some filework will be nesessary? or maybe i just got no chance and should address directly to a knifemaker to fit stop pin?
wait, maybe this thread should go to the "Knifemakers"?
 
Just looking at both they appear to be identical but you won't know until you try. Being that the thumb stud looking thing on the blade is actually the blade stop it is key that it be in the same spot on both blades, that the pivot hole be in the same spot in relation to the stop and that the width and length be the same to fit in the handle properly. If all these things are the same the only other issues are the lock cut out and the interface grind on the blade where the lock engages. These must be identical also and then the pivot pin diameter. Many times from one model to another the pivot pin may be different in that some of the higher end Buck knives have bushings in the pivot like the Buck 560 did. It looks identical to the Buck 110 blade in both the 560 and the 110 but the difference is inside unseen until you take it apart and then you see that one has a bushing in the pivot and one has a pin only. This can be dealt with usually but it complicates things a bit. The higher end G10 knife may be a different pin diameter than the lower end but they could be the same.

STR
 
thanks STR! Pivot hole diameter… or stop pin
in week or so I'll posess that invaluable knowlege (maybe hard way ;))
 
I wish they had made the g-10 version available with plain edge. I was holding out hope. I guess that since the Buck Striders are no more I'll never see it happen. :mad:
 
moving-van.jpg
 
The blades will fit, the only problem is that you are most likely going to have to destroy the Taccom models handle to get the blade out. The handle needs to be disassembled to get the blade out, and because the Taccom uses rivets, that is not easy to do without destroying it.
 
The blades swap very easily and the handle does not have to be taken apart.
Be sure to remember what side the washers are on because they are diffrent sizes and one has a flat side for the liner lock to work properly.
 
grumpyxtremes10 said:
The blades swap very easily
Click to expand...

have you tried this yourself? The whole knife can't be disassembled (because its riveted), but blade should be detachable…
 
If it were me taking it apart I'd buy some 1/8" diameter pivot barrels from knifekits or knife and gun finishing supplies or texas knifemaker supply and replace all those rivets. If it already has holes bigger than that I'd move it up to the next bigger size. One way or the other that knife would be a take apart model when I was done with it.

STR
 
grumpyxtremes10 said:
Yes i have 5 of the buck strider folders and have swaped the blades between some of them.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I had intended to take the blade out of my 889 SBMF to polish off the black but when I removed the pivot screw the barrel was still very tight in the slabs so I stopped there. The blade and lock-up on mine was so tight and play-free I didn't want to risk changing the fit in any way. Please tell me, is this what you found and if so how much force did it take to remove the pivot barrel?
 
You have to remove the blade in the unlocked position because the lock exerts enough forward pressure to jam the barrel in place. I have polished the blade on one of mine and it was pretty time consuming. Just be careful and dont overheat the blade and ruin your temper. I used my dremel tool on mine and held it in my hand putting my finger just behind where i was polishing so knew when it was getting to hot.
 
I've had the blade out of my 887 SBT to sand the checkering off the grips. It's harder to reassemble until you get the knack; the flat on one washer does help orient the reassembly.

How did the lock match up between handle and blade combinations?
 
I sent one back to buck and they swapped in a plain edge blade for me for a total of 10 bucks. This was last year so... They where very nice about it. Hope this helps, Steve
 
grumpyxtremes10 said:
You have to remove the blade in the unlocked position because the lock exerts enough forward pressure to jam the barrel in place.
Click to expand...

Great, thanks for the tip.:thumbup:
 
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