Buck/Strider questions.

J

JamesA

Joined
Jun 2, 2001
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First of all, I recently acquired a mini buck/strider tanto to go with my large Buck/Strider tanto. I'm thrilled. I love them.

However, nothing is perfect. These, for me, are just more perfect than anything else I've found. I'd like to try and clean up my minor issues, though, and any advice would be appreciated.

A: On the bottom of both, the liners kind of hop up -- it looks like they were molded, and this is the spot where the ti was poured into the mold. Not sure if that's why, but that's what it looks like. Is there any way for me to fix it? Sand it down? Get a diamond stone and try to grind it off (by hand?) I've never dealt with titanium -- any suggestions.

B: There's some rust on my larger one. Should I be able to flitz it off without it looking terrible? I'm worried 'cause of the bead blast.

C: On my smaller one, the lock bar protrudes 3/16 of an inch or so above the scale. While I can live with this, I just want to know if it is expected behavior.

As well, the same questions regarding the liners -- mine has two on one side and one on the other. The small one, anyway. The larger one I really can't tell. Doesn't bother me, but it's curious...

Thanks,
James
 
The marks on the bottom of the liners are from where they are laser cut. That is the point where the laser stops and starts the cut on the liners. It can be filed off with a standard bastard file, but it will make the titanium shiny where you file it. All buck striders are like that so I wouldn't worry with it.

I don't know about the "rust" though. Maybe someone else has a thought about that.
 
Okay. Filed off the laser cut whatevers -- feels just fine now. Flitzed off the rust -- looks just fine now, didn't touch the finish.

Still worried about the lock bar, and the small one has also developed a bit of blade play pretty quickly after pretty minimal use -- front to back play, feelable but barely visible. Any suggestions out there? Is this normal, is it something I should send it in for?

Thanks,
James
 
James,
I am sorry the two knives are not at least, a little closer to perfect than they are. Blade play and rust are definitely not acceptable. The locking liner does stick up a little above the scale by design. I would suggest that you send in your mini so we can take a look at the blade play issue. You can send it to me at:
Joe Houser
1900 Weld Blvd.
El Cajon, Ca. 92020
 
Originally posted by Joe Houser
James,
I am sorry the two knives are not at least, a little closer to perfect than they are. Blade play and rust are definitely not acceptable. The locking liner does stick up a little above the scale by design. I would suggest that you send in your mini so we can take a look at the blade play issue. You can send it to me at:
Joe Houser
1900 Weld Blvd.
El Cajon, Ca. 92020
Click to expand...

Hey Joe,

Hate to bother you, but do you have any idea how fast the turnaround will be? Not sure when to send it in -- also, do I need to toss in some money to cover return shipping or something? Can't find anything on the web site.

Thanks,
James
 
I know that this is an old thread. I was searching through old posts to see if anyone else had experienced rust on a Buck Strider folder.

I have an SBT, It's the old plastic scale version. I first noticed the rust on the rivets that hold the handle together but upon closer inspection I also found that the ball detent had rusted.

This knife has never been exposed to salt water or any extreme use.

It is my belief that the rivets and ball used may not be made of stainless steel.

I understand that Buck is making a new version of the SBT with G-10 scales and titanium screws.

Does the rusting rivet problem have anything to do with it?
 
Your SBT rivets shouldn't have rusted before any other steel part on the knife. Not sure why. Usually the first spots of rust will be on the beltclip screws- this is caused by the sweat and oil that comes off of your hand. I haven't seen any rust on a ball detent.

I routinely dive mine and the rivets never show any rust, I'm puzzled.

Even when you don't expose your knife to saltwater, your surrounding environment can cause some corrosion. Just maintain it with a little oil no wand then and you will be good to go.

Please send the knife in though, I'd like to see it and make sure its squared away. We'll clean it up for you.

Josh
1900 Weld Boulevard
El Cajon, CA 92020

P.S. The G10 SBT has steel screws, not titanium.
 
Mr. Rummerfield and all,


While we're back on the topic of B/S ti. liners....

Has Buck ever considered a run with SS liners? i feel like SS wears a lot differently than ti. If we are still concerned with weight, how about leaving the non-locking side Ti and just changing the locking side to 420 SS?

I feel like this would make a dramatic difference in long term wear. At least, I've been through several buck-strider liners as it is. in general, the process goes like this:
*get new liners/knife
*use for ~3/4 - 1 year
*disassemble knife, bend liner *in* more
*use for a few more months
*repeat


I'm not saying the knife is a bad knife-- my folder gets used hard and things naturally experience wear and tear-- that's life. it's just my observation that stainless steel liners wear differently than titanium.

and luckly, buck has above and beyond, top notch, customer service ;)





and while we're at it....
ever considered the idea of a lockback Buck/strider? :D:D:D:D
 
i agree with Midget. ive had the same problems repete on my buck strider. and i think steel would be better as well. ive actualy suggested it here befor.
i think a steel frame lock with the oposite liner in ti like Midget said would make a nice difference.

...justin
 
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