Buck's 154CM? Corrosion Resistance vs 420HC?

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shreddybear

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Feb 21, 2015
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I know there's been plenty of steel threads, but I haven't found much info exclusively regarding Buck's 154CM and how it stands up to corrosion, etc...

Reason I'm starting a thread is because I've heard conflicting things about this steel in regards to rust. I know all SS can rust, but often read 154CM rusts easily, or has "excellent" corrosion resistance.

I was under the assumption 420HC was more corrosion resistant to 154CM, but was recently informed--by Buck--that 154CM is more corrosion resistant than 420HC. Is this experience shared with others here? Not sure if I was misinformed, or perhaps this is exclusive to Buck's 154CM?

Talking about 154CM and not CPM154 by the way. Does Buck ever use the CPM154?

Anyway, thanks for any info regarding this rather broad topic. I'm looking into getting the Buck CSAR-T Responder. Don't want a knife that needs to be babied, but it will certainly be cleaned and dried after use. That said, it might be out in the damp wilderness for hours and perhaps days at a time where things like oil aren't available.

New to this forum, hope this is in the correct place!

Thanks!
 
Some of those high tech stainless knifes have choice of 400 or 900 F Temper .The 400 F is better for corrosion resistance . It's hard to compare 420HC with 154CM as they are so different in chemistry and properties. The 154CM is much more knife.If you clean and dry the kinife after each use there should be no problem !! Stainless products should be carefully handled in the making.Stainless steel should always be made with tools exclusively used for stainless , never used on carbon steel as the stainless will be contaminated with bits of carbon which will corrode and that in turn corrode the stainless !!!
 
As long as you take reasonable care, BUCK's 154cm will be fine. Also if needed, you can use the skins oil from along your nose. Most people naturally produce it in that area in larger amounts, and provided your not sweating bullets when you go to use, it works. Also.the skins oil really polishes up a wooden handle.
 
I have not experienced rust with my Bucks in 420HC or CPM-154. I don't have any of their 154CM, although the Marksman does look interesting. I guess that answers your second question too... Yes, Buck does use CPM154... or at least they did for the runs of their 110 for Bass Pro.
 
I own a Marksman, it flips like a dream, but I have to say the rust resistance is awful. Seriously, I swear mine would stain/rust if I breathe too hard on it. This is my first (and probably last) 154CM blade, I really hope that the steel isn't usually this rust prone, my D2 Benchmade fairs a lot better.
 
Thanks muchly for the responses so far! Very informative. Neat about using your own oils for the blade, hadn't thought of that.

Thanks for sharing the experiences, all very good to know. Really surprised how many responses I received in one day, you guys rock!

Many thanks, and if you feel like sharing more, please feel free!
 
Not sure why you initiated this topic as you were already informed from the mfg.? I have a knife of 154cm and have not had rust problems with it. Still, I'm a knife user and Don't know more than someone in the cutlery industry. DM
 
David Martin said:
Not sure why you initiated this topic as you were already informed from the mfg.? I have a knife of 154cm and have not had rust problems with it. Still, I'm a knife user and Don't know more than someone in the cutlery industry. DM
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Thanks for the info. Started this because after lots of research into this steel, there seems to be some conflicting info out there.

Not sure I believe 154CM is more rust resistant than 420HC as Buck had said. Perhaps the way Buck does it makes it so. That said, I've seen more people post about a rusting 154CM blade than I've seen with 420HC. Then again, maybe most people care about those (154CM) blades more.

How do you treat your 154CM knife? Do they ever see wet and/or salty environments? This thread was also for me to get some more info from people who've used the steel. If anyone has info regarding 154CM being more corrosion resistant than 420HC, I'd love to hear it.

Buck's email confused me as it conflicts with much I've read elsewhere. I asked them for more info, but haven't heard back unfortunately.

Thanks for taking the time to post!
 
I haven't had rust problems with 420 or 154CM. My 420 billet dive knife I've carried for decades (I EDC it too) has never had a speck of rust on it even after ocean submersion. I'd rinse and dry it but that was it.

I have several good-quality folders in 154--polished, satin and stoned. None have shown rust. I do avoid bead blast finishes though. As far as specific Buck steels, all I can say is that I think highly of those that I own but I do not have their 154CM.
 
shreddybear said:
Thanks muchly for the responses so far! Very informative. Neat about using your own oils for the blade......all very good to know......
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Quick clarification---make sure that oil is only from along the top ridge of your nose. Anything else can corrode.
 
Hmmm?
All of these stainless steels that have been mentioned so far in this thread are just that. Stainless when properly hted for a knife application and with a reasonable amount of care of wiping down the blade with a mild soap & water bath, then towel drying after heavy use cutting of foods or acidic materials will give YEARS of service without problems.

I really think the reasons you are hearing such a spread of conflicting reports is ether poor heat treatment or operator error of the knives.
I live & work making my knives very near the ocean and even here I would say the same two culprits are at work.
 
Thanks Echoil!

Rhinoknives1 said:
Hmmm?
All of these stainless steels that have been mentioned so far in this thread are just that. Stainless when properly hted for a knife application and with a reasonable amount of care of wiping down the blade with a mild soap & water bath, then towel drying after heavy use cutting of foods or acidic materials will give YEARS of service without problems.

I really think the reasons you are hearing such a spread of conflicting reports is ether poor heat treatment or operator error of the knives.
I live & work making my knives very near the ocean and even here I would say the same two culprits are at work.
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Good to know.

Thanks again to everyone who's chimed in. It's good to hear from people far more experienced than myself.

I'm going to go with that CSAR T Responder from Buck. Think the knife design is great and that's definitely important too! Definitely plan to take good care of it.

Feel free to keep it coming, really appreciate it.
 
It's not just the steel alone that prevents rust. The finish on the steel can help as well. You give it a polished finish and this takes it up a notch in it's resisting stain. DM
 
2 cents more for the folks than did mention the finish, they are correct that it can be an additional factor.

Stone blast finish or anything that increases the amount of surface area available, increase's the possibility of food, moisture hanging on and starting to oxidize. I put a bright satin finish or better on my culinary knives with fine rust resistant results.
 
shreddybear said:
Thanks Echoil!.....I'm going to go with that CSAR T Responder from Buck. Think the knife design is great and that's definitely important too! Definitely plan to take good care of it.

Feel free to keep it coming, really appreciate it.
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Good choice I'm sure. I have the CSAR-T Liason. Two zip ties and it's the slickest little horizontal carry package I own. Love it.
 
My personal opinion is that if you take care of your knives, you will have no rust problems. If you live near the coast (salt water), I would just wipe them down periodically with oil. My standard oil is Rem Oil which I use for firearms too.

I don't own a Buck knife in 154CM. I own a couple customs in that steel as well as CMP 154. Have not had a problem, but I don't store fixed blades in a leather sheath and I tend to wipe them down occasionally. If I were taking a knife on salt water over night, I'd probably have a little pack of Rem Oil wipes. It is something I keep in my day pack for hiking as they take up no space essentially or about as much as a couple bandaides.

My latest Buck knife is a Cabelas Alaskan Guide Series 192 (4" Drop Point) which is done in S30V and has a baked on black finish (not paint). The finish is not coming off anytime soon, but I feel sure it will get scruffed up when I use the knife. I generally don't own a bunch of Buck knives but have two or three 110's that I picked up over the years. Buck makes a good knife and they have an excellent warranty.
 
Many thanks again everyone, very helpful.

Finishes definitely do make a difference. Beadblast can make rust problems worse from what I understand, any info on Zirblast Finish? Seems like a beadblast finish, but looks pretty smooth.

Using body oil (nose) on the blade is a neat trick too, luckily I'm not acidic!

Aside from preventing scratches, glare, corrosion (with exception of certain finishes) etc., anything else finishes do that might not be common knowledge? Particularly beadblast? (and or Zirblast, whatever that is exactly) Apologize if that counts as threadjacking my own thread...

Anyway, thanks again. All good to hear. Feel free to keep sharing experiences if you want, it's been an interesting read. I'm not too worried about 154CM crumbling to rusty pieces in my hand any more!:)
 
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