Anyone use these before? Jantz was out of stag scales for handles and i might run into the core of the stuff from texas Knifemakers supply, so I got the colored buffalo horn scales. Any tips how to do these? do they need to be stabilized? How should i work them and anything to watch out for with drilling??? How do these look? I will search the archives, but figured i would post again, too. thanks, guys!
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Buffalo scales from Jantz...
- Thread starter Taz
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 23, 1999
- Messages
- 5,855
I used some buffalo horn from Jantz once and never will again!! It is so soft, I deformed it just by barely touching it to the buffer. If you get some you better do it all by hand.
------------------
Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
------------------
Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
Don't worry, the handle will be done with Dremel, Files and sandpaper. Totally by hand. I will use pins(brass 1/8"), but pein then very little and just use epoxy for them mainly. I will sand the sides flat instead of steaming them. I was disappointed that jantz was out and Texas Knifemaker supply said i would probably run into the core. I was going to do their jigged bone, but with a flat rate of $7 for shipping, it wasn't worth it for one handle. Oh, and Mike, the check will be mailed tomorrow!!
Hello Fellow Makers:
For India Stag, you should have called UAI. Check us out at www.knifesupplies.com we have a pretty good stock & selection available. And only $5 shipping fee for orders $50.00 or under & free shipping on orders over $50.00* (read our terms of sale for full terms). We try to keep it as economical as possible!
As for Buffalo Horn, always work with this very slow & do not work with too much heat. I would recommend on a buffer no faster than 600 RPM. Try to do as much hand finish work as possible. If you get a warped piece I suggest you show a little heat (propane torce) and slowly start to bend it back to shape.
These are just some basic tips. If you have any quesitons I woudl be glad to answer them. Feel free to contact me directly at 678.969.9147 or via email at rcchopra@uai.org
Hope this helps,
Ric C. Chopra www.knifesupplies.com
For India Stag, you should have called UAI. Check us out at www.knifesupplies.com we have a pretty good stock & selection available. And only $5 shipping fee for orders $50.00 or under & free shipping on orders over $50.00* (read our terms of sale for full terms). We try to keep it as economical as possible!
As for Buffalo Horn, always work with this very slow & do not work with too much heat. I would recommend on a buffer no faster than 600 RPM. Try to do as much hand finish work as possible. If you get a warped piece I suggest you show a little heat (propane torce) and slowly start to bend it back to shape.
These are just some basic tips. If you have any quesitons I woudl be glad to answer them. Feel free to contact me directly at 678.969.9147 or via email at rcchopra@uai.org
Hope this helps,
Ric C. Chopra www.knifesupplies.com
- Joined
- Jun 12, 1999
- Messages
- 1,110
i like it, i used it for a bowie once, went to 10,000, didn't buff. had a nice mirror polish. where a good respirator. you don't wanna breath it!
- Joined
- Mar 18, 1999
- Messages
- 2,112
Although I like water buffalo horn, it will "move" on you depending on heat and humidity. You will find that at times the pins are recessed, other times they are protruding. I am not sure if stabilizing will work with it or not. I know someone that does send their's to K&G but don't know if it does any good at all.
It will buff rather quickly so caution must be exercised. As Ric mentioned, buff it slowly. If you aren't careful, it will burn if your not careful on your grinder.
Believe it or not, ox horn is much softer and is much more prone to the above but it will fracture if you aren't careful while drilling. It is kind of similar to plexiglass in that regard. A brad point bit and/or cutting fluid seems to alleviate this with it.
Craig
It will buff rather quickly so caution must be exercised. As Ric mentioned, buff it slowly. If you aren't careful, it will burn if your not careful on your grinder.
Believe it or not, ox horn is much softer and is much more prone to the above but it will fracture if you aren't careful while drilling. It is kind of similar to plexiglass in that regard. A brad point bit and/or cutting fluid seems to alleviate this with it.
Craig
Well, I won't buff with a wheel. I have sandpaper to 600 grit and then i picked up some 1500 grit SC sandpaper, and some whiterouge. I will drill it with a cobalt bit and use cutting fluid, Rapid Tap. For shaping, I have a jewlers saw I will use. I will use files to round the corners and a Dremel to smooth everything up, then hand sand to 600 and then 1500, then use the WR on leather and buff by hand that way. Would this be good? I won't pein the pins much, either. And I bought another pack of respirators rated form drywall.
As for UAI.org, i was going to use stag, but the guy at Texas knifemakers supply said I would probably run into the core because the knife has finger grooves and the tang curves down a bit, so I decided to go with the buffalo horn because i don't have to worry about the whole core and enamel. Plus, I had a bunch of stuff from Jantz on order, so I just added it to the order. Thanks for the help, guys!
[This message has been edited by Taz (edited 07-26-2000).]
As for UAI.org, i was going to use stag, but the guy at Texas knifemakers supply said I would probably run into the core because the knife has finger grooves and the tang curves down a bit, so I decided to go with the buffalo horn because i don't have to worry about the whole core and enamel. Plus, I had a bunch of stuff from Jantz on order, so I just added it to the order. Thanks for the help, guys!
[This message has been edited by Taz (edited 07-26-2000).]
- Joined
- Mar 18, 1999
- Messages
- 2,112
I hope I didn't lead you down the wrong path, there is no need to use cutting fluid on water buffalo. I was basically comparing the softness of it to ox horn. Ox horn is translucent and you will see it fracture if not care is taken. No worry about water buffalo.
As far as peening your pins "just a little bit" in handle material, DON'T! I will probably get some arguements on that but a stress fracture will occur especially on stag, bone and ivory. I wouldn't do it on any natural handle material.
With stag, it should be sanded down past the pithy marrow or center. Finger grooves should not be an issue if sanded down properly.
There is no problem using a buffer with water buffalo, just don't get very agressive. You should be able to lightly buff it if so desired.
[This message has been edited by C L Wilkins (edited 07-26-2000).]
As far as peening your pins "just a little bit" in handle material, DON'T! I will probably get some arguements on that but a stress fracture will occur especially on stag, bone and ivory. I wouldn't do it on any natural handle material.
With stag, it should be sanded down past the pithy marrow or center. Finger grooves should not be an issue if sanded down properly.
There is no problem using a buffer with water buffalo, just don't get very agressive. You should be able to lightly buff it if so desired.
[This message has been edited by C L Wilkins (edited 07-26-2000).]