Buffer speed

D

deker

Joined
Nov 14, 2005
Messages
3,496
Hey folks,

I'm looking into setting up a buffer in the shop, and was wondering what speed motor I should be looking for. HF has an 8" benchtop buffer for $60, but it's a 3600RPM motor. Seems a little fast to me. Is that just my healthy fear of the buffer kicking in or should I be looking for 1700 or so RPM?

Thanks,

-d
 
1700 is plenty fast enough, I have two buffers that are geared down to less than that. You don't need a lot of speed, and the slower buffer is much safer to use, although nothing takes the place of know how.
 
That's kind of what I figured, but it's good to have my thoughts verified by someone as esteemed as you Mr. Fowler :)

So, my better bet would be to build a buffer from some pillow blocks, pulleys and a shaft so I can work out speed reduction, etc rather than buy a bench mount buffer that goes way too fast?

Any suggestions on proper form when using a buffer, safety considerations, etc? I've been told by everybody that a buffing wheel is the most dangerous tool in the shop (and I believe it!), so I want to make sure I limit any potential damage by thinking properly as I start out.

Thanks,

-d
 
running a 1725rpm 1/6 hp buffer and 8 inch wheels
best tip i have is to take it easy

OT hey deker you ever get the puddle of coper and nic-silver out of your kiln
 
Deker - I have the 3600 RMP model from HF. For over a year.
Stick to buffs 8" or under and you will be fine.

You can NOT beat the price. And it is a SOLID 3/4 HP , my home-built
grinder uses it as a foundation.

No matter what RPMs you have, you need to be careful when buffing.
 
A few months ago I wrote an article on buffer safety for Blade in the October 2005 issue..
The pillow blocks is a great means of mounting the buffing wheels. Benches tend to allow a blade to fly and bounce, so mount then on a round pedestal. I keep a bunch of old grinding belts on the floor behind the buffer, these will catch a blade rather than let the blade bounce off of the floor. I have seen blades richochet around a shop from cement floor to oxygen bottle to wall to my leg.
The velocity of a blade is directly proportional to the surface speed of the buffing wheel. Smaller wheels know less surface speed that large wheels at the same rpm.
Try to visit a knife maker who knows what he is doing and can teach. We have not had a buffing wreck in my new shop yet.
If you ever find your way around Riverton Wyo. Give me a call and I will show you how.
Sincerely Yours and good luck.
 
I agree with Ed. A 3600 RPM might be OK, but it's extremely dangerous, making the most dangerous tool in your shop doubly so.

At 17-1800RPM you can hold onto the knife if it gets snagged by the wheel, most of the time, but on 3600, it will be launched before you can react.

I've had it happen twice when I was a new maker(totally ruined both blades and came close to ruining me) and got an 1800 RPM, 3/4 HP Baldor(332B I believe the P/N is) and never looked back. It took me years of garage sales to finally sell the cheapie 3600. At $10.00, I was glad to see it go.;)

You can also take the temper out of a blade twice as quick with a 3600.:eek:
 
I have a VS buffer. I works great. I can slow it way down and not dig into my handle material and much less likely to kick out. Some nast accidents have happened on both 3600 and 1700 rpm machines so be CAREFUL:eek: . I feel the buffer is the single most dagerous piece of equipment in the shop. It can kill you fast and it can kill you slow......


Chuck
 
I have to agree that the buffer is the single most dangerous piece of equipment in the shop. I have both 1700 and 3600.with over 30 years using them on knives. First let me say that is you want t be very safe, stay away from pucker or ruffled buffs. But I do use them regularly. Speed can be a factor, but for different reasons with different buffs. The hard buff works much better at high speed as it burnishes, not just polishes the surface of a hardened blade. A fully burnished surface is much more scratch resistant, than a merely polished one. Not to mention more corrosion resistant. A slower buff is better for softer handle materials, with less heat being generated. With a really soft buff, the slower 1700 motor will allow the work to sink into the buff deeper by accident, grabbing the work before you know it. The higher speed makes the buff act like it has a harder surface. Slower buffs tend to dig into the material being buffed more readily, than a faster buff. Much of the RPM can be controlled by wheel dia. Always use the lower half of the wheel. never the top, or top half. Get a good leather apron. Practice on round stock. Some steels cannot be fully polished with the slow speed buff. Many, such as D-2 will orange peel. It requires rpm, and ultra fine compound. Mike
 
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