Buffing Compound?

[AHensleyKnives]

Just finished this about 3 weeks ago. The scales are pretty simple, Arizona iron wood. I took out the light scratches with a 320 grit J-Flex belt. I used Green Chrome polishing compound its 50% pure chrome and 50% green alumina and very dry. Any suggestions in using other types of compounds? Dose it matter when working with stone?

 

[Kevin Jones]

You would most likely get more response over in the Knifemaker's Forum.
Cool little knife!

 

[Horsewright]

I have that green compound and don't use it much. Pink scratchless takes care of an awful lot and works better on the ironwood anyways for me. No experience with stone. Very nice little knife by the way. On the ironwood I hand sand to about 4000 grit and then buff with the pink. then a couple of coats of car wax buffing off with a clean buff. I found that the pink left far less residue to clean up afterwards then the green. I do have other compounds and I use them depending on the handle material. For instance I buff sheephorn differently then say buffalo which is different then stag etc. As a general rule I start with fast cut on sisal wheels and then proceed through a couple of different compounds finishing with the pink.

 

[Salem Straub]

I usually sand handle material to 600 grit by hand, after finishing by machine to 400. Then I go straight to pink scratchless compound. I find if I sand somewhere below 600 grit, it's difficult to remove all scratches to my satisfaction with buffing. Above 600, I don't see much difference.

Horse is wright. Wax looks good buffed onto handle wood.

I've used green for handles, I don't like it as it can stain/smudge materials.

The knife does look nice. I like the herringbone purfling.

 

[Horsewright]

That's good Salem! Very "punny" I like it!

 

[Salem Straub]

Yeah, that pun stuff runs in my family. A genetic weakness I guess.