Buffing Help

colu41

colu41

Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Messages
1,598
So I have 2 buffing wheels. One for a coarse compound (grey) and one for a 1200 grit compound (white). I use the white most after I've finished handles or blades up to 800 or 1000 grit. But I'm having a problem with the white compound leaving grey residue on the handles. Especially when using white liner or spacer materials. Any way of fixing this?
 
Are using the vulcanized fiber liner material? If so, there's little you can do to avoid staining.

As for removing buffing compound from steel, g10, micarta, etc... any solvent or cleaner should do the trick. I usually use some wd-40 or even just windex.
 
Several things:

Use soft combed linen or combed cotton unstitched buffs for handles.

Don't use a buff for handles that has been used on metal...ever. Use a dedicated buff for the wood.

Get a buff rake and clean the buff before buffing a handle.

Don't load up the buff. It takes almost no compound to polish wood that is properly sanded to 1000 grit.

Buff lightly. Hard pressure creates cracks and checks, can burn the wood in a flash, and creates smears of compound on the handle.

Clean off the excess compound after buffing. Denatured alcohol is good for this. Let the handle cool down completely first, then wipe off with a paper towel damp with alcohol. After wiping down, hand buff with a soft cloth. A quick touchup on the power buff may be needed sometimes, but don't charge the wheel.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Several things:

Use soft combed linen or combed cotton unstitched buffs for handles.

Don't use a buff for handles that has been used on metal...ever. Use a dedicated buff for the wood.

Get a buff rake and clean the buff before buffing a handle.

Don't load up the buff. It takes almost no compound to polish wood that is properly sanded to 1000 grit.

Buff lightly. Hard pressure creates cracks and checks, can burn the wood in a flash, and creates smears of compound on the handle.

Clean off the excess compound after buffing. Denatured alcohol is good for this. Let the handle cool down completely first, then wipe off with a paper towel damp with alcohol. After wiping down, hand buff with a soft cloth. A quick touchup on the power buff may be needed sometimes, but don't charge the wheel.
Click to expand...

I did not know this. I probably should have. I also may be loading it with too much compound. And I use G10 liner material. No vulcanized.

Is it ok to use the same buff wheel for different metals? Brass, steel?
 
It really doesn't matter with metals if you buff different types on the same wheel. You also can load the wheel with lots of compound.
With wood and other softer materials ( Micarta and G-10), keep the wheel away from metals.
 
You really need a different buff wheel for each grit of compound used even for metal. Don't load the wheel up with coarse compound, then change to a fine compound. I prefer to keep each buff wheel in a ziplock baggie and it zipped when not in use. Label baggie what compound is used on that wheel.

Ken h>
 
what about buffing a full tang handle where there is metal and wood sandwiched? Just be very careful about it?
 
I'd never thought about taping off the tang and one side to allow buffing only the wood scale..... I just try to be VERY careful and focus on the wood, going VERY lightly on the metal. Much the same problem with the pins in the handle - they will also give problems, especially brass. I've started using German Silver pins (corby screws) to help with this metal "smearing" on the wood. I have yet to find a good solution.

Ken H>
 
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