Buffing question about S30V

Barker

Barker

Joined
Dec 24, 2005
Messages
1,159
I usually work with ATS-34 and it buffs out beautifully. Does S30V have the same shine and luster after buffing. I ask because I've only seen S30V blades that have been tumbled, bead blasted, etc. Thanks!
 
The answer is there !!! You see bead blasted etc because S30V is VERY difficult to polish !
 
I don't buff to polish my blades.

I hand sand up to 2000 grit.

I can't tell any difference between ATS34 and S30V. Both look the same to me after sanding, and both take the same amount of time.

I can see my ugly face in either after sanding to 2000 grit.:jerkit: :eek:

Now since I don't buff blades, I have no experience with that. Chances are though that buffing the blade wouldn't improve my looks.:o
 
Thanks Don...I think...Maybe I should have used the word polish instead of buff. Even though I polish my blades with a buffer.
 
from what i hear the vandium carbides can be pulled out of the softer steel by the buffer gouging the steel as it goes but thats just what "they" say
butch
 
If desired, I will provide a mirror finish on ATS34, 154CM,440C.
S30V is available in hand stroked finish.....I would very much like to avoid trying to put a mirror finish on S30V.....I also agree with Don, a hand stroked finish on any blade steel, to me, is a more desireable finish, and is a finish you get on handmade, not production, knives as well.
There are more desireable ways to put a polished finish on steel than buffing if you truely want a mirror finish.
Steve Johnson uses a worn cork belt loaded with green chrome rouge to get his beautiful blades to virtually polished....then MAYBE a minute or so on the buffer, MAYBE.
 
Diamond compound on a hard feld wheel will put a mirror polish in it. That's about the only thing that will mirror polish the high concentration carbides. It's a tad expensive polish, using the diamond paste after you do what you can with the usual buffing. But, it's not so much, seeing as how little you actually use of the compound. I use a homemade 1" hard feld pad hotglued onto a Dremel steel brush, placed in my drill press. Cover your drill plate with cardboard and set the plate about 1or 2" below the raised chucked pad. Be careful, get a feel for it with the spinning pad and the knife blade. It's easier than it sounds. You run the pad down onto the blade and give it at least 10 or 15 seconds. Then, move the blade over 3/4 of a space, and repeat. You don't need more than a comfortable pressure. Let the diamond paste and pad do the work. I lightly smear the diamond past over the blade before the start, the side that is facing the pad. The pad will pick up a lot of the paste and will make use of the compound. Just do a circle, jump over 3/4 of another circle space, and continue the process, remembering the overlap as you continue. Position the sharp edge facing away from the direction of the turning of the pad, so it will slide off instead of digging into the sharp edge. Your homemade pad can be cut from 1/4" thick ink pads, the 1" width works great. Your pads don't have to be really round, either. It is the face of the pad that is doing the work. After doing all the 3/4 circles on the blade, you can lock the chuck down with some light pressure onto the blade, and carefully start the drill press, and move the blade around under the moving pad, equalizing the polish. It's easier than it sounds, this process. If you are scared of trying it, don't try it. I have polished countless hard blades with this process and have had excellent results. It's probably safer than buffing, considering the time spent on the buffer trying to get a mirror polish on a really hard item.
 
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