Buffing wheel ballance???

K

knifemaniac

Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
288
Hello there,
I have a problem with new felt bufiing wheel. I was never used one before. When I put it on the engine it became vibrating very strong and I am afraid that it will brake the bearings. Is this normal with a new wheel?
How to keep it centered and steady while turning. Do I have to scrap it with something do adjust the center?
Please, give me some tips.
 
are you running it at the correct RPM, IIRC almsot all buffing wheels require low rps
-matt
 
really depends on the type, some are supposed to be sub-2000rpm some can go higher, hopefuly some one wiser than i will chime in soon
-matt
 
Is this a buff with a hole or for a tapered spindle? Does this wheel fit snugly on the shaft? My experience with felt wheels suggests they are usually balanced well, but this is limited to American-made wheels.
 
Actualy I got 2 wheels. One is with 30 milimeters hole, the other is for tapered spindel - it has a tiny hole - about 3 milimeters. I dont have a tapered spindel mashine, so I am trying to use the one with the bigger hole. It fits tight ot the spindel, but it vibrates much. It is 200mm diameter, 40mm tick. I wonder is the speed too fast. And if the wheel is disballanced - can I scrap it as it turns, so it became centered arrownd the spindle?
 
For sewn muslin buffs, there is a device called a "wheel rake" that could be used to true that type of wheel. I don't think it is made for felt buffs, though.

I am sorry, but have no real advise, having never faced this difficulty. :o

Good luck.
 
Thank you all. I will try to rake it tomorrow with a knife while it turns. Give me an advice - what kind ot wheel to use for using white buffing compound. I think it is grid 1200.
I also have muselin wheel, but it does almost nothing to the steel. Which wheel is for what knid of compound?
 
Roll your felt wheel on the table, if the center is off thats your prob.....you bought a cheap wheel. Diamond compound on that felt wheel will work nice, follow up with pink scratchless on the muslin (read my post on buffing)
 
knifemaniac said:
Thank you all. I will try to rake it tomorrow with a knife while it turns.
Click to expand...

I can't begin to tell you how dangerous this plan is! Something edged like a knife will grab that buff and can be VERY easily ripped from your hand and land in you. Please think twice about this plan...

-d
 
No, not exactly this. I'll try to scrap it with sandpaper or something else less dangerous. Knife is not a good idea realy. I figure it out after I tryed with a file. The center of the wheel is the problem. I'm turning the engine on for just a second, and I use inertion for scraping. It vibrates less, but I have to keep repeating this procedure as long as it start turning smooth.
 
I am guessing that the hole in the wheel is not tight enough on the spindle, on a threaded spindle with a lock nut it should not simply slide into place but have to be threaded on then the nut tightened to hold the wheel tight against the back plate.

In the case of a tapered spindle a thick wheel will not lock up tightly and will wobble side to side, several thin wheels should be used instead (6mm thick).

Loose muslin buffs are dangerous, take extreme care using them.
 
Do you have flanges on the sides? If not it will run off axis and wobble and shake. If you are just tightening the nuts with a small washer (or no washer) it may shake. Singe this is a large wheel, any distortion in the wheel will cause bad vibration. Also,I would run a 200mm (8") X40mm (1.25") felt wheel at a slower speed. Perhaps 1200-1800RPM.
Stacy
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top