Buffing wheels

[Jesse Lange]

I recently bought a Brodbeck grinder and it came with the buffing wheel attachment. The arbor is 5/8-11, and I don't know what to look for in a buffing wheel.

I found some on Amazon with the following description "SCOTTCHEN Buffing Polishing Wheel 8" x 5/8" Arbor x 70Ply White Fine Cotton for Bench Grinder - 2 PCS" (can't remember if I am allowed to post links). Would these be worth buying? What should I look for in a buffing wheel? What buffing compounds should I get?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

By the questions you are asking I would suggest you don't buy any buffing wheels until you have been taught how to safely buff by an experienced smith. There is a whole lot more to buffing than just a wheel and the compound. Do some searches with the custom search engine for BUFFERS, BUFFER SAFETY, BUFFINBG WHEELS, and BUFFING COMPOUNDS

I jokingly respond to these type questions with something similar like:
"I found a scalpel in a yard sale box. What it the best suture to use for an appendectomy? Any good suggestions on how to stop bleeding?"

 

[Jesse Lange]

Thanks Stacy, I really should have been more specific in my original post. I did also search for older threads related to this and found some information such as this response from you:

"For steel blades, there are many buffing compounds, but most flks use green chrome. For handles, you don't want to stain the wood, so match;ess pink and matchless white (AKA pink and white) are what most folks use. Use only a little and use a wheel that NEVER polished metal. I use a unstitched linen or cotton wheel most of the time for wood and ivory, and muslin for Micarta and G-10."

As someone with experience using a bench grinder, I agree that bench grinders and buffers are some of the most dangerous tools in a shop (up there with oxy acetylene torches due to risk of accidental contamination of the oxygen regulator with a hydrocarbon). It is always worth reminding others of these dangers, because it is too easy to become complacent.

What I should have asked is:
- What types of wheels and compounds are best for buffing handles (stabilized wood, unstabilized but oiled/ waxed wood, micarta, etc). Are there any product or suppliers you can recommend?
- What types of wheels and compounds are best for buffing blades to achieve mirror finishes. Are there any products or suppliers you can recommend?
- Is there anything else that I should know?

As a Finn, I also have to ask where the "Ilmarinen" on your profile comes from.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Unstitched cotton or linen for wood.
Stitched muslin and treated muslin for metal.
6" minimum size, 10" and 12" are great, but less safe. Handles do fine on a 6" wheel.
Don't buff wood fast or hard.
Matchless white or No-scratch pink for wood.
Green chrome followed by white rough for metal.

As for a mirror finish, start with cork belts. You can't buff in a mirror finish until you have an almost mirror finish. Many folks do it all with the cork belts. Ask Adam for his procedures.