Buffing?

Crag the Brewer

Crag the Brewer

I make Nice, boring knives
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Oct 18, 2018
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I feel I am ready to step up my game.
I'm very happy with the quality of my knives, but id like to enhance them visually more.

Not exactly sure where to focus most?

I'm currently finishing up building a disk grinder. I'm only a couple months behind schedule. Seems I always get delayed. I still need the feathering compound. I'm not sure if there is only one option?

I "think" my blades look flat? At least to the eye, and to the touch.
Perhaps I'll enjoy sanding? Idk.

Previously I spent all my efforts on design, build quality, and geometry.
So now finishing is something I feel I can work on.
I bought some toolmaker/edm stones. Haven't played a them, and I don't know which grits are more useful? (Is this only for After heat treating? I assume so?)
I'm also making some supportive sanding hold downs. There is Always something to make.

Ok..... So now to buffing.
I have a small shop. 11x19
Does anyone use a buffer on an arbor with their 2x72?
Or is a separate stand alone better?
Id want it to be slow speed.

I Don't plan on polishing blades.
Only handles. So far all my micarta has been not super smooth/shiney finished.

Also Maybe polishing edges on a stropping or hardboard wheel? Idk if those are ok for edge? Without overheating

I also bought one of those small buff wheels from Pops, to play with.
People seem to like them?


Just how much are buffers needed for making User blades?
Any help or direction appreciat ed
 
Seedy Lot said:
No buffer in my shop and probably will never be one.
Click to expand...
Ok.... good enough for me!

I still need to hit you up on how to use those stones?

Just like sandpaper, wet....
Criss cross, applesauce? Lol
 
Bühlmann said:
I use a drill chuck adapter and 3-4” wheels on an adjustable speed drill press. Cheap & easy, seems to do a good job.
Click to expand...
I'll try that with my pops wheel....on an arbor
 
I changed the thread title from Buffering to BUFFING.

Buffing can be dangerous if you don't follow all the rules and have some one-on-one training. Similar to using dynamite, it isn't a skill you learn by trial and error. People always say, "You learn best by making mistakes. " I say Bu!!$....... Some things do not allow mistakes.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I changed the thread title from Buffering to BUFFING.

Buffing can be dangerous if you don't follow all the rules and have some one-on-one training. Similar to using dynamite, it isn't a skill you learn by trial and error.
Click to expand...

Haha... THANKS!
I've never been accused of being a good speller, or wordy! :)

The dangerous part is why I don't care for mirrored polished blades.

I'm hoping handles catch less?

*I'm also beginning to think My knives are already looking better, As is. 😂
 
Handles catch less, but remember that it is the blade that you are holding when you buff the handle, Also, you can accidentally snag the blade or tip while moving the handle around or buffing the front of the handle.

Things to know:
Tape the blade up with blue tape.
Pay attention to where the handle is on the buffer wheel. You want it in the 3 o'clock to 5 o'clock position area.
Keep a firm grip on the blade/handle.
Mount the buffer properly with at least 12" clearance below the wheel and 24" clearance behind it. Nothing below the wheel except the floor is best.
Contrary to what it may seem, a larger wheel is easier to buff on than a small one. The 2-5 o'clock area is bigger and thus easier to control.
Use unstitched muslin wheels for handles with white or pink no-scratch polish.
Buffer wheel edge speed is something that most folks don't think about. A big wheel has a higher edge speed than a smaller wheel and buffs more efficiently and smoother. You can turn a 12" wheel at 900RPM and get the same edge speed as a 6" wheel at 1800RPM. This is why variable speed is great for buffers. You can slow the wheel for things that burn easily and raise it for buffing steel, polishing hardware, and certain woods.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
Does anyone use a buffer on an arbor with their 2x72?
Click to expand...
Here is one I posted a while back

Buffing attachment for the grinder

I have been using a 1/2" heavy duty portable shaft from Grizzly to buff my handles for a while now. Had it mounted to the wall with plugs on wires and would plug and unplug with one VFD controlling the grinder and buffer. Recently I mounted it to an arm for the grinder thinking I might have to...
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
 
Britt_Askew said:
Here is one I posted a while back

Buffing attachment for the grinder

I have been using a 1/2" heavy duty portable shaft from Grizzly to buff my handles for a while now. Had it mounted to the wall with plugs on wires and would plug and unplug with one VFD controlling the grinder and buffer. Recently I mounted it to an arm for the grinder thinking I might have to...
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
Click to expand...
You Still like it?
 
Richard338 said:
I got a Rikon 8" low speed buffer 1750 rpm from Amazon. They are $180 right now. I just carefully do micarta handles, and am happy with it.
Click to expand...
Is it slow enough for you?

That's the one I was looking at, if I don't make one
 

This is my setup. Cheaper than the $3500 Burr King option. Wilmont has been working on one also.
 
I’ve been using a Palmgren variable speed buffer for a few years now. I really like it. You can change speeds in 100 rpm increments.
 
A shop fox buffer head, a 1/2-3/4HP 3-phse motor, and a cheap VFD will make a great buffer setup for around $300. It will throw a 12" buff at any normal speed you want. I forget who on this forum I sent a box with the stuff to build one? Maybe it was J. Hoffman?
 
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