Bugout CF-Elite pivot issue....

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Sep 29, 2020
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I originally posted this to the "knife maintenance" forum, but got no response. Hope I'm not breaking any rules by re-posting it here. But maybe the Benchmade specific folks will have more interest, and better information:

Post 1:
Ok, new to knives and knife maintenance here. Just looking for some guidance.

The story: Picked up a Benchmade Bugout with the CF-Elite scales recently. Initially, it was HORRIBLY "grindy", and the Axis lock would stick more often than not. (Not a great "out of box" experience).

Steeling my resolve, and with more than a few Nick Shabazz YouTube videos to guide me, I took one scale off, and attempted to push the pivot through the other side. Goal being to clean up the pivot, washers, and blade, and HOPEFULLY clean up the action.

But...for the life of me, I could not push the pivot through. I pushed with my fingers, a small screwdriver, and finally with the end of an allen wrench. No dice. That thing ain't going anywhere.

looking closer, I saw what looked like a black substance dried around the entire circumference of the pivot where it pokes through the last steel liner. (I took some pictures, but haven't figured out how to post them here yet....remember...newbie). ;)

So, what is that black substance? Every video I looked at seemed to indicate that, if anything, the only thing holding the pin in should be friction, or maybe a couple of "clicks" as it passes through the liners, washers, and blade.

Loctite? Is some loctite BLACK? Is some heat the answer to my issue? Or is the CF-Elite version somehow...different?

Now, the question is fairly moot at this point. After my failure to get to the blade/washers for cleanup, I buttoned it back up. A couple of days of working the action has cleaned it up immensely, and my little Bugout works GREAT now. No issues.

Of course....someday, I will again want to pull it apart, so getting an answer now would be great.

Thanks for your time and consideration....

Post 2:
Guess my issue, or at least my description, doesn't ring any bells.

I will note that after thinking about it, and if the pivot collar is REALLY glued into place in the steel liner, then the knife should actually work just fine WITHOUT the pivot screw. Effectively, the pivot screw would only be acting as another scale screw.

And that is nearly the case. I just removed the pivot screw entirely, leaving all other screws in place. The knife worked FINE. Centering was minimally affected...still pretty close to centered. And the action was maybe a LITTLE loose. But it worked. Then, replacing the pivot screw, and tightening much tighter than would obviously be proper....the action became a little tight. Not immobile...but a little tight.

In the end, I'm convinced this is one screwed up knife. The gritty/grindy action it initially had is likely closely related to the "glue" holding the pivot in place. Having worked through that, it's now a functional knife. But it still isn't "right". While I'm fairly new to the knife world, I have some experience with my Mini-Grip, and know how the mechanism is SUPPOSED to work....

When I have time, I'm going back in to clean the entire thing out. I'll use some heat, or alcohol, or something to break the pivot free, and get the thing back in spec. (Then again, maybe I should just return the defective thing, and start over again....)
 
I would submerge the knife in hot water, not necessarily boiling, but bloody hot nonetheless. Keep it in there for 10-15 minutes and see what happens. There "should" not be anything holding the pivot in there, but never say never...
 
I would submerge the knife in hot water, not necessarily boiling, but bloody hot nonetheless. Keep it in there for 10-15 minutes and see what happens. There "should" not be anything holding the pivot in there, but never say never...

Thanks for the heating tips, (sounds better than a blow-dryer!), and for confirming my belief about what should/shouldn't be in the pivot/liner interface.

Guess my last concern is WHY they put some substance there. If they were trying to sneak a knife with some other issue through the manufacturing cycle, me removing the gunk would just leave me with a knife with whatever that issue was...and no proof that *I* didn't cause it. As much as the engineer in me would LOVE to go hands-on and fix the knife, I'm starting to lean toward just returning it.
 
Did you disengage the axis lock when trying to get the pivot out? If not, then it won't come out. Some of them can be a pretty tight fit, but with the lock putting tension on it it makes it almost impossible to get free.
 
Once you get that pivot free and your knife cleaned to your liking use a little graphite (pencil lead is the easiest) where the tang meets the axis lock pin and your knife will smooth out greatly and the lock stick should go away. Don't oil the tang it will only my the lock stick worse. This has worked well for my bugout.
 
Thanks for the tips and ideas.

To follow up....I finally got the pivot out! I did a little light scraping of the obvious over-fill of loctite (or whatever it was), using my Mini-Grip blade tip. (Friends helping friends?) Then heated it under a lightbulb as a starting point. (Hot water was my next step, if required). And with a bit more pushing, it finally pushed out. (!!)

Did the normal cleaning and oiling, and it works great. As expected, there was a "generous" amount of gunk/loctite. Of course, as noted, it actually worked pretty good after a few days of break-in, anyway. But it was just bugging the crap out of me that I couldn't get in there. :)

Problem solved...well working knife....case closed.
 
^^Good to know. I'm glad you fixed the issue. Unfortunately, I have to pretty well fix all my knives as the warranty is somewhat useless up here in the SSRC. Good thing Benchmade's are generally easy to work on.
 
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