- Joined
- Jan 28, 2006
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- 7,035
OK, because everyone likes pics. . .
I decided to give it a little workout today, nothing fierce, but see how it performs.
First, the edge. Even polished, this one came sharp. Sharp enough that all I did was steel the edge with a ceramic rod to remove the burr, and strop it to polish the edge. It would cut hair, but left a bit of razor burn behind. For a hard use blade, I don't bother putting a shaving edge on. Outside we go.
First of all, I wasn't expecting a great slicer, this is a thick blade. The spine is just under 3/8" in front of the bolster, tapering to 1/4" just before the false edge starts.
I started on soft vegetation (weeds by the mailbox). It cut through them like they weren't there with either a quick flick of the wrist, or a long sweeping machete-like swing.
Next onto some of out concertina-wire like thorn bushes growing too far into the yard. These varied from thin spongy pieces to thick (1/2"-5/8") stalky trunks. the thin stuff sliced like the weeds did, it went through the thick pieces like a light saber with a quick whip motion, both striking towards the root and away from the root. I was very impressed by how this thick a blade worked.
Let me stop here and describe the chop and why these designs are genius.
Notice the sort of "bulb" at the pommel?
I put my first three fingers in front of it, and wrap my pinky around the pommel. Then keeping a loose grip with my first two fingers and a good grip with my ring and pinky fingers, I use a kind of whip motion, much like with a kukri. The rounded pommel facilitates a good rotation and retention of the knife. Very good design.
On to wood.
I cut a small pine sapling down, roughly 4" diameter, that was growing too close to the foundation of the house. I chopped through from one side, without bending the tree or putting other external stress on it. The bowie took 22 strikes to get all the way through, and that includes a few where I flat out missed the "V" I was chopping into. Cutting the 1/2-3/4" limbs off was a one-chop affair.
One last test was to break out another piece of the seasoned birch and baton it. No problem at all. Nor denting or rolling of the edge through all of this. Did a little drilling with the tip into the hard wood like for a bow drill. No problems. I did manage to bend the tip when I did the stab test into a 3/4" piece of plywood. Bowies are meant to stab flesh, not wood, so I'm not surprised or disappointed (except in being dumb enough to try it). Two strikes with a hammer straightened the tip out.
Bringing it inside, I washed it off, did no sharpening and proceeded to carve up the rest of the ham I had left from yesterday. No problems at all slicing the meat, or chopping the bone in two for the doggies.
Again inspecting the dge, no damage. washed it off, wiped it down with a silicone cloth and it's resting in its sheath.
Very good, utilitarian blade.
Probably makes a good fighter, too, but couldn't get any volunteeers to try it.
I decided to give it a little workout today, nothing fierce, but see how it performs.
First, the edge. Even polished, this one came sharp. Sharp enough that all I did was steel the edge with a ceramic rod to remove the burr, and strop it to polish the edge. It would cut hair, but left a bit of razor burn behind. For a hard use blade, I don't bother putting a shaving edge on. Outside we go.
First of all, I wasn't expecting a great slicer, this is a thick blade. The spine is just under 3/8" in front of the bolster, tapering to 1/4" just before the false edge starts.
I started on soft vegetation (weeds by the mailbox). It cut through them like they weren't there with either a quick flick of the wrist, or a long sweeping machete-like swing.
Next onto some of out concertina-wire like thorn bushes growing too far into the yard. These varied from thin spongy pieces to thick (1/2"-5/8") stalky trunks. the thin stuff sliced like the weeds did, it went through the thick pieces like a light saber with a quick whip motion, both striking towards the root and away from the root. I was very impressed by how this thick a blade worked.
Let me stop here and describe the chop and why these designs are genius.
Notice the sort of "bulb" at the pommel?
I put my first three fingers in front of it, and wrap my pinky around the pommel. Then keeping a loose grip with my first two fingers and a good grip with my ring and pinky fingers, I use a kind of whip motion, much like with a kukri. The rounded pommel facilitates a good rotation and retention of the knife. Very good design.
On to wood.
I cut a small pine sapling down, roughly 4" diameter, that was growing too close to the foundation of the house. I chopped through from one side, without bending the tree or putting other external stress on it. The bowie took 22 strikes to get all the way through, and that includes a few where I flat out missed the "V" I was chopping into. Cutting the 1/2-3/4" limbs off was a one-chop affair.
One last test was to break out another piece of the seasoned birch and baton it. No problem at all. Nor denting or rolling of the edge through all of this. Did a little drilling with the tip into the hard wood like for a bow drill. No problems. I did manage to bend the tip when I did the stab test into a 3/4" piece of plywood. Bowies are meant to stab flesh, not wood, so I'm not surprised or disappointed (except in being dumb enough to try it). Two strikes with a hammer straightened the tip out.
Bringing it inside, I washed it off, did no sharpening and proceeded to carve up the rest of the ham I had left from yesterday. No problems at all slicing the meat, or chopping the bone in two for the doggies.
Again inspecting the dge, no damage. washed it off, wiped it down with a silicone cloth and it's resting in its sheath.
Very good, utilitarian blade.
Probably makes a good fighter, too, but couldn't get any volunteeers to try it.
, current veterinarian advice I have received is not to give dogs any cooked bones what-so-ever, and especially not salty ones from a leg of ham. 
