Buried Filework - under a "clear" epoxy

R

reedje777

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Sep 27, 2011
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So, I'm a newbie maker and I did some unique filework on a blade in the handle area. I usually do filework and then fill around it with black dyed D2T. This time, I left it clear so you could see the filework beneath it. The problem is that the epoxy is cloudy and i can't get it to buff glossy. I've tried to sand it to 1200 then buff with white rouge but it only moderately cleans up. Any suggestions (besides scrap the knife)? :confused:

I thought maybe a clear coat over it might work to fill in the voids? If you think that's an option, what should I use?

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I've used lighter fluid with a buff rag to clear plastics not sure it would work epoxy but it's worth a shot if your gonna scrap it.
 
I've used Flitz polish for plastics. I don't know what it would do to clear material but think it may be worth a try.

- Paul Meske
 
Unfortunately it might be your epoxy, No matter how high a grit you get to if its not truly translucent when dried you are wasting your time.
Last time I did something like this I tried several epoxies with dime size splatters over a black marker on white paper. I found at that time not all epoxy is clear.
I do wish you luck though.
CW
 
What about heating it up and getting it off then using a super glue like Gorilla Super Glue that dries clear.
 
Unfortunately I'm with Blindhogg on this one. I don't think your epoxy is clear, so no amount of sanding or polishing will make it any clearer.
 
It looks like your epoxy is to blame. How old was it? sometimes it goes bad.....I know.

It is a good idea to mix your epoxy in a small batch and wait for it to dry to see if it dries clear or yellow and hazy. I just had some Devcon epoxy dry yellow.
 
Thanks for the ideas guys. I'm going to try some of the above... I like the sound of the heat and CA glue. Newbs like me need all the help they can get.
 
I do know that epoxies used for thread wrap finishes on fishing rods like FlexCoat or Gudebrod rod finish dry clear. I wouldn't use it for adhesive purposes but you could use it for filler after the initial glue-up after cleaning out all of the Devcon epoxy. Just an idea for next time maybe.

Oh yea, rod finish epoxy is THIN, designed to level out on thread wraps as they dry so you might hape to make a "dam" out of masking tape to keep the epoxy in the filework until it sets up.

randy
 
I've used the Gorilla Glue Ca. It works well for that app. Give that a try
 
I really like the idea of the casting resin. Any brands that you would recommend? Is that what acraglas is?

Also, is it even possible to clean out the old epoxy? I mean, the filework is pretty aggressive and there is plenty for the epoxy to grab on to... Or, is this just a next time suggestion?
 
Not all casting resins dry clear, so make sure what you use states that it does dry clear. I buy mine at Hobby Lobby, and it works great as an epoxy, too.
If you can remove your scales, heat will break the bond with the steel.
 
It will require taking this handle apart and re-doing it to straighten out this mess.

The epoxy you used is probably a 5 minute brand. They are going to be full of tiny bubbles and cloudy. They are also not really all that hard and smooth, so sanding won't make it look any better.

Super glue will become gummy and dirty looking very fast, as it isn't made to be a solid resin, either.

Take it all apart, and use a clear coat epoxy. West System and System Three make a clear coat resin ( bar top resin) that will bond your handle as well as dry crystal clear and have good hardness and durability. They are made to be polished. Top coat epoxy for fiberglass work is the same type resin.

Clear acrylic casting resin is clear and polishes well, but isn't a good bonding agent, so it won't hold in a thin film like you will be applying over the file work. It may tend to peel out or flake. Acrylic is a rather soft material, and may not hold up to use well.
 
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