The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Post HT.Fresh grinding belts. Light pressure.
Are you grinding pre or post heat treat?
That's a good..."tip".There is also a trick that Don Nguyen uses which it to leave a small square at the end of the tip to act as a heat sink until you finish grinding. Then grind the square off once you are down to thickness.
Fresh belts, also lower grit produces less heat, so getting 90 percent of your final thickness with low grit.
Extra length is good, but also consider leaving the spine straight until after the bevels are ground, or leave a small square at the tip as Fredy suggested (I prefer to just leave the spine straight). The extra material makes it easier to hold and conducts some heat away. You have to be careful when profiling the spine and bringing the point down, it's also easy to overheat the tip. Dunk the tip often and use a mist coolant system if you have one. I profile the spine with the tip pointing down.That's a good..."tip".I've thought about just making the blade 1/2" or so longer and then finishing to length once bevels are complete.
I’ve made shorter blades with 15n20 & 5160, which are the steels I have the most experience with so far. I’ve tried to not muddy my own waters with a bunch of different steels. Do they really grind differently (post HT)?Are certain steels giving you more grief than others?
Aside from fresh belts, straight, flat back spine early, water, no gloves, no jigs.
I also do some of my tip shaping with diamond files and aggressive stones.
It keeps me from getting Hot.