Burp chopping power

erto

erto

Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
275
Today I could find some free time to relax and enjoy with my Burp.

I chopped out some piece of woods. There was embedded nail, too.:eek::eek:

I'm not sure about precise angle but if I remember correctly it is around 22,5 per side and it can chop and cut wood without any damage to edge. The edge hold up well and it was shaving sharp until it meet with the rusty old embedded nail. I didn’t notice any chipping on edge. I think, it is only rolled and bit toothy now.

I need some suggestions. How I can fix it? And which angles would work better for such tasks (wood chopping & sometimes nails:p)?

I really enjoyed with my Burp today. No doubt, it is a gorgeous knife. I am sharing some pictures enjoy :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
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Take a steel or chrome screw driver to that edge before sharpening. I chopped a hidden rock in half in some wood I was splitting and was amazed at how much of the minor damage realigned with some steeling. You may be able to push some of that metal back into place before sharpening the rest out.
 
PeteyTwoPointOne said:
Looks like a resharpening with a guided or a mechanical <like Worksharp> system, am I correct?

At any rate, it looks great and doesn't look like a lot of INFI was hogged off. :thumbsup:
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Wow I am impressed. you must be an experienced hog :thumbsup::thumbsup: It is sharpened by Worksharp ken onion edition at an angle of 22,5. It is shaving sharp now.
 
good work. I typically sharpen all my busses to 15 dps For wood it is perfect from my experience. Carothers prefers 18 dps for choppers. I know others that prefer 22-25 dps. But there is more to it than that. What thickness is your edge starting from. etc. Every knife design has a different ideal edge angle based on it's overall geometry. Also, the heavier a knife is, or the more forward weighted it is, the more damage is possible to the edge from the extra power that is generated by you and the knife. So, for example an SH-E is not going to hit it's edge with anywhere near the force than an FBM will. The FBM may take more damage for the same angle due to the force of the impacts
 
I recently sharpened this SHSHII and it looked a little wide on the edge, so I thought I would calculate the angle of the edge. Seems a little low, but we'll see how it fares on wood. I am sure it would take a lot of damage on metal, but it should do fine on wood.

YbYGDD3.jpg
 
Cobalt said:
I recently sharpened this SHSHII and it looked a little wide on the edge, so I thought I would calculate the angle of the edge. Seems a little low, but we'll see how it fares on wood. I am sure it would take a lot of damage on metal, but it should do fine on wood.

YbYGDD3.jpg
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very informative thanks :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
erto said:
Wow I am impressed. you must be an experienced hog :thumbsup::thumbsup: It is sharpened by Worksharp ken onion edition at an angle of 22,5. It is shaving sharp now.
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thanks, but I just took note of where on your bladetip you had been careful not to over-grind like some have done with the WorkSharp
 
Bigfattyt said:
Take a steel or chrome screw driver to that edge before sharpening. I chopped a hidden rock in half in some wood I was splitting and was amazed at how much of the minor damage realigned with some steeling. You may be able to push some of that metal back into place before sharpening the rest out.
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This is great advice. Was recently thinking about doing a whole post on this. Probably still will!!
 
Also about first edge and "second" edge, as my experience with infi is that it gets tougher after use. Not that I know anything about why that would be the case.
 
nydude said:
Also about first edge and "second" edge, as my experience with infi is that it gets tougher after use. Not that I know anything about why that would be the case.
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Many manufacturers sharpen with a belt sander. Unless you wet sand at low speeds, temps can get hot quick. With most mechanical sharpening, the theory is that you will get better edge performance after an Initial sharpening or two...

It takes higher heat than many steels to temper INFI, from my understanding, so it may be a little less prone to this issue.
 
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