Burr and angles..

[TouchOfRed]

Hey there people !

I tried to take a markingpen and put it on the edge to determine the angle, but for me it didnt work. I dont know why. Maybe cuz the angle was TO wrong?
Only sharpeningsystem i have is the Sharpmaker, So the angles i have to work with is 30degrees or 15/15 and 40degrees or 20/20 (Correct me if im wrong).
And how delicate is a 15/15 edge compared to a 20/20 edge? Like, when cutting wood, what angle is the best of those?
Also, on my Sharpmaker is says that 40Degrees is the edge, and 30degrees is the Backbevel, what does that mean? Is the 40degrees for a Microbevel?

And when im sharpening, or "trying" to sharpen a knife (Im newb, thats why i said "trying") i cant feel the burr, i trying to drag my finger lightly across the edge like the pros, but i cant feel the burr. Maybe becuase im not a pro?
And how important is it to get rid of the burr before going to the finer ceramic rods? Or does it not matter to get rid of the burr, becuase i have an old leatherbelt that i use to Strop my knives, not sure if i should get a real strop or if this belt does the job? Also, should i invest in that Green polishcompound you have on the strop to make the edge even finer?

Thanks people, and sorry for my gramar, i suck at american, Well im from Sweden..

Hope you had a great weekend ! bye

 

[marthinus]

Hey there people !

I tried to take a markingpen and put it on the edge to determine the angle, but for me it didnt work. I dont know why. Maybe cuz the angle was TO wrong?
Only sharpeningsystem i have is the Sharpmaker, So the angles i have to work with is 30degrees or 15/15 and 40degrees or 20/20 (Correct me if im wrong).
And how delicate is a 15/15 edge compared to a 20/20 edge? Like, when cutting wood, what angle is the best of those?

15 degrees per side (DPS) is a stable enough angle for most any steel.

Also, on my Sharpmaker is says that 40Degrees is the edge, and 30degrees is the Backbevel, what does that mean? Is the 40degrees for a Microbevel?

You could say that.

At the edge it looks like this:

So you sharpen a while at the 15 DPS setting before moving to the 20 DPS setting, or sharpen the knife at the 15 DPS only.

And when im sharpening, or "trying" to sharpen a knife (Im newb, thats why i said "trying") i cant feel the burr, i trying to drag my finger lightly across the edge like the pros, but i cant feel the burr. Maybe becuase im not a pro?

Nothing to do with being a pro, has to do with patience. The medium stones of Spyderco are slow cutting stones so you will have to spend more time on shaping the edge before refining and apexing, however.....

And how important is it to get rid of the burr before going to the finer ceramic rods? Or does it not matter to get rid of the burr, becuase i have an old leatherbelt that i use to Strop my knives, not sure if i should get a real strop or if this belt does the job? Also, should i invest in that Green polishcompound you have on the strop to make the edge even finer?

Forming a burr is a good indicator for learning how to sharpen when you actually reach the very edge. Removing the burr is VERY important before going to the finer rods, but it is not necessary to form a burr on the fine rods.

Getting a strop and compound is up to you. Many are happy with them and many are happy without them.

Thanks people, and sorry for my gramar, i suck at american, Well im from Sweden..

Hope you had a great weekend ! bye

Dont worry, I am from South Africa

Here is a lot of info.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/794-Maintenance-Tinkering-amp-Embellishment

 

[Twindog]

The Sharpmaker is best for sharpening properly profiled edges that are not too dull. But the stone has to match the profile of the edge -- using the 40-degree stones on a 40-degree edge. The Sharpmaker stones are so fine that they are not very good for reprofiling an edge so that the edge angle and stone angels match.

Mathinus covered most of the points, but first you need to figure out why the Sharpie trick is not working. It could be that your edge is wider than 40 degrees, so that a dry pass on the stones of either the 30- or 40-degree settings will only scrape off metal at the very shoulder of the edge.

Under that condition, which is very common, you won't see much ink being scraped off and you won't feel a burr because you won't be creating a burr. The burr is formed when the stone is scraped across the apex.

If your Sharpmaker is your only sharpener, you might want to get a pair of diamond stones for it so you can reprofile at a better speed.

I agree with Marthinus that the 30-degree profile is best for most good steels, but it will take longer to create a 30-degree bevel than a 40-degree bevel.