-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
burr burr and more burr
- Thread starter arnon
- Start date
Well Garage Boy I think I can give you some input on that one. If I am sharpening some high crome, high molybdenum steel which seems to get burrs easier I either take a ridged F. Dick butcher's steel and knock it off with it or I get my rough leather strop out with a lot of compound on it and aggressively strop it with a lot of skewing action. But if you take the Ultra Fine stone you can buy extra with the 204 Sharpmaker kit I am confident you can conquer your objective that way as well. JD
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2001
- Messages
- 1,308
Although I still fight with the occasional burr, I have learned to deal with it (with much help from Joe Talmadge's FAQ).
In fact, I suppose very little of what I say now is not found in his FAQ on sharpening, available on this very site.
Once I have done with the primary sharpening, I switch to the side of the blade opposite the last stroke(s). I lift the spine-edge of the blade to almost double the normal angle used for sharpening, and VERY LIGHTLY grind the blade on the stone in the same motion (just lighter and with a much higher angle) that I used for primary sharpening. One or two strokes, and then I switch to the other side.
My own modification is that I use either a blue or a white LED flashlight to detect the burr. Holding the knife a few inches from my nose, spine toward me, edge away from me, I shine the light down onto the blade from spine to edge, following my line of sight. With a little movement to optimize the reflected angle, I can check for the reflection that a burr would throw back. This works: I know because I can clearly see a burr on the side opposite the last side on which I stroked, and none on the other side. In fact, if I do one or two strokes on the burr-side, I can then see the little ridge of blue or white light on the next side.
This of course has nothing to do with getting rid of the burr -- only detecting it. To get rid of it, you still just use the higher-angle, far-lighter-pressure technique. I usually don't have to do anything special i.e. strops, compounds, wheels, steels, etc. Just a plain old Spyderco Ceramic Bench Stone or Profile, medium grit. On some rare occasions I will use the white fine grit stone.
-Jeffrey
In fact, I suppose very little of what I say now is not found in his FAQ on sharpening, available on this very site.
Once I have done with the primary sharpening, I switch to the side of the blade opposite the last stroke(s). I lift the spine-edge of the blade to almost double the normal angle used for sharpening, and VERY LIGHTLY grind the blade on the stone in the same motion (just lighter and with a much higher angle) that I used for primary sharpening. One or two strokes, and then I switch to the other side.
My own modification is that I use either a blue or a white LED flashlight to detect the burr. Holding the knife a few inches from my nose, spine toward me, edge away from me, I shine the light down onto the blade from spine to edge, following my line of sight. With a little movement to optimize the reflected angle, I can check for the reflection that a burr would throw back. This works: I know because I can clearly see a burr on the side opposite the last side on which I stroked, and none on the other side. In fact, if I do one or two strokes on the burr-side, I can then see the little ridge of blue or white light on the next side.
This of course has nothing to do with getting rid of the burr -- only detecting it. To get rid of it, you still just use the higher-angle, far-lighter-pressure technique. I usually don't have to do anything special i.e. strops, compounds, wheels, steels, etc. Just a plain old Spyderco Ceramic Bench Stone or Profile, medium grit. On some rare occasions I will use the white fine grit stone.
-Jeffrey
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2004
- Messages
- 1,035
I drag the blade edge trailing across my thumbnail. The burr will shave the nail and you can see it stuck on the burr. It highlights the burr making it easier to detect.
Use a 6000 or 8000 grit japanese waterstone, after finishing sharpening, do some very light strokes, lighter and more lighter, after that use a untreated leather piece, like a razor strop, for this work best leather type is seal leather, after these there sould not be any burr. Any other sharpening systems are just crap, japanese waterstones are best.:thumbup: