Burr detection for freehanding- magnification a good way to go- if so, what to use?

Z

Zero_Time

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Dec 28, 2006
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So, I've been deciding to buy less knives and focus on getting the ones I have lazer sharp... freehanding. I have a sharpmaker, and as fun as that is, I want to be able to freehand.

I've got some 60 grit sandpaper and 320 grit that I've used for heavy reprofiling of kitchen knives to practice on, but my better stuff is dmt: XXC, C, XF, and XXF fieldstones. I've been freehanding, and I think my angle maintenance is pretty good now, and my edges are starting to get near reflecting- but don't feel that sharp, which I'm going to chock up to not fully getting to the level of playing with the burrs.

So, to aid me in burr detection, what would you recommend? Yes, I'm running my thumbnail and other nails down the blade from back to edge to try to detect a burr, and then along the side of the edge and I'm never sure if I feel one. I notice some people posting high magnification of their edges to show the burr, and I was wondering if that was an economical way (<$100) to aid my burr-discovery skills by visually confirming and then feeling. If so, then obviously, what piece of kit am I looking for, and where? Lots of people seem to mention having 10x jeweler's loupes- is that enough, or do I need MORE- and where would I get such kit, either online or locally? If it's something simple like a loupe, I'd be happier getting it locally so I can futz with it RIGHT NOW.

Thanks,

Zero
 
I just use my fingertips. My eyes are not good enough to see a burr through a 10X loupe. If you have a cheap knife, work up a quick burr with a coarse stone. You should be able to feel it as it flips from side to side. When the burr gets very small on the fine stones, it becomes harder to feel, so I usually continue sharpening with every finer stones and ever lighter pressure, finishing with a strop.

Freehanding is more difficult than people think. For example, you could just very slightly back off on the angle and not hit the burr at all. The guided systems are so accurate that I don't use anything else. Some mechanics tighten bolts by feel, but I always use a torque wrench because of the added accuracy. I like to use the best tools I can afford.
 
As one of those that post micrographs of edges, and being in graphic arts for 20 yrs now (with much use of a loupe) I can say with confidence that all you need is a good loupe of 10-15x and strong overhead lighting. I've confirmed this for myself on many occasions if it isn't visible at 15x it isn't going to show up at 600x either. Get a good achromatic loupe, not a 10 dollar cheapie, still shouldn't cost much more than 40 or 50 bucks (less than a lot of good stones or knives). Get comfortable using it - with strong overhead lighting you'll catch every burr and every stretch of grind that doesn't make it all the way to the apex. It takes some practice but nothing crazy. If the loupe is of very high quality it could be 6 - 8 x and work well - quality is everything. You can see more detail with high-end 6x binoculars than cheap 12x ones - makes a world of difference. You can see a lot with the naked eye, you can see a whole lot more with the proper tools.
 
+1 on a good loupe. The two I recommend are either Bausche & lomb, or Belomo. Both are very good quality. If you can't find it locally, maybe ask your friendly neighborhood jeweler if they can order one for you. Otherwise, the internet is full of deals on these. I say go for 10x minimum. 15X might be better. Also if you wear corrective glasses, you may need to use it without them, I know I do.


-Xander
 
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