Burr problem

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razorback1595

Joined
Nov 1, 2008
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605
Like the title says
I have an endura 4 and i've sharpened it, now it has got a huge bur wich doesn't wanna go of, i've tried to use a strop (no compound), cardboard, a steel and wood but the burr doesn't wanna go.
Any tips ??
 
Try and reduce the burr as much as possiable with your finest sharpening stone (light pressure), stop using the steel, and get some compound for your strop.
 
On any fine flat abrasive stone or rod hone lightly edge-forward (as if you were shaving the hone) at a slightly higher angle than you used for sharpening. Alternate the side you are honing on every stroke, left-side, right-side, left-side, right side. Try doing this for 5 cycles. If that doesn't work try 5 more.
 
What I do to remove the burr is sharpen at a higher angle on an extra fine stone. I do right-left, right-left, and the burr is gone. Then I continue (1-1 each side now) with the medium stone at the original angle until the microburr is gone.
 
When I run into these annoying "super burrs", I usually just end up running the blade over a stone with the blade perpendicular to the stone to just get rid of it.

At best, with a light hand one may merely have to go back to the fine stones to bring the edge back. Otherwise, its back to square one in sharpening and keeping an eye out for burr formation and immediately removing it.
 
Razorback,Welcome.When sharpening or rebeveling, I usually work up a burr on the coarse stone.Then as I work thru the finer stones ( three, plus strop) it melts away.
If it doesn't by the X-fine stone then raise the angle 1-2* using lite pressure and gently remove it.DM
 
Jeff Clark said:
On any fine flat abrasive stone or rod hone lightly edge-forward (as if you were shaving the hone) at a slightly higher angle than you used for sharpening. Alternate the side you are honing on every stroke, left-side, right-side, left-side, right side. Try doing this for 5 cycles. If that doesn't work try 5 more.
Click to expand...

If one is using a crock stick method (SharpMaker), would that "higher angle" be holding the spine closer to the rod or further away from the rod used for sharpening?

I'm reading "at a slightly higher angle than you used for sharpening" as meaning you tilt the spine of the blade further away from the rod that was used for sharpening.
 
razorback1595 said:
Like the title says
I have an endura 4 and i've sharpened it, now it has got a huge bur wich doesn't wanna go of, i've tried to use a strop (no compound), cardboard, a steel and wood but the burr doesn't wanna go.
Any tips ??
Click to expand...

Burr can be eliminated by careful sharpening changing sides every move. It can be dome on any grit stones. Key is change sides and be gentle and patient. Do not raise angle just change sides and after about 20 passes on each sides it usually goes away, but no pressure.

Keep in mind that there is no need to get rid of burr between changing grits. You should do this only on final stone.

Use good lamp to monitor burr.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
nozh2002 said:
Burr can be eliminated by careful sharpening changing sides every move. It can be dome on any grit stones. Key is change sides and be gentle and patient. Do not raise angle just change sides and after about 20 passes on each sides it usually goes away, but no pressure.
Click to expand...

I like to remove the burr by using an Extra Fine stone and raising the angle and doing about 4 passes, 2 for each side, alternating sides (L-R-L-R). This leaves a microbevel. Then I go back to the Extra Coarse and do L-R-L-R-L-R until the microbevel is gone again. And then I move up from XC to F to EF, all doing L-R-L-R (alternating sides).

I find that if I use the same angle as the bevels for removing the burr, all that happens is the burr flops back and forth forever. That's why I prefer doing the higher angle a couple times.
 
THG said:
I like to remove the burr by using an Extra Fine stone and raising the angle and doing about 4 passes, 2 for each side, alternating sides (L-R-L-R). This leaves a microbevel. Then I go back to the Extra Coarse and do L-R-L-R-L-R until the microbevel is gone again. And then I move up from XC to F to EF, all doing L-R-L-R (alternating sides).

I find that if I use the same angle as the bevels for removing the burr, all that happens is the burr flops back and forth forever. That's why I prefer doing the higher angle a couple times.
Click to expand...


If your using diamond stones each stone will be able to remove the burr, using the right amount of pressure is the key.
 
If the burr is that stubborn, then I usually cut into a medium grit stone and start over. I've had knives tht would not loose a burr or it just broke off leaving a ragged dull edge. In these cases, the quickest solution was to cut into the stone to remove the burr and start again with fresh steel that has not been burred or flopped back and forth.

Unloaded leather will not remove a burr such as the one you describe. I doubt that unloaded carboard will either. I have never had any luck removing burrs with a board, except very ragged burrs formed on a belt sander. I've had burrs so stubborn that loaded strops on a 1x30 sander wouldnt remove them. By loaded and unloaded, I mean strops loaded with honing compound or not loaded with compound.
 
me2 said:
If the burr is that stubborn, then I usually cut into a medium grit stone and start over.
Click to expand...

I used to do that, but I've found that just simply using a higher angle makes the whole process take less time; instead of having to create an edge out of a now-flat spot, you simply have a microbevel and just work it out until you have a singular bevel.
 
THG said:
I like to remove the burr by using an Extra Fine stone and raising the angle and doing about 4 passes, 2 for each side, alternating sides (L-R-L-R). This leaves a microbevel. Then I go back to the Extra Coarse and do L-R-L-R-L-R until the microbevel is gone again. And then I move up from XC to F to EF, all doing L-R-L-R (alternating sides).

I find that if I use the same angle as the bevels for removing the burr, all that happens is the burr flops back and forth forever. That's why I prefer doing the higher angle a couple times.
Click to expand...

Not forewer - about 20-30 passes. As I sad patience is the key.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I use a lansky turnbox set with 20 and 25 ° but the problem is that is is sharpend bad by spyderco, one side is sharpened sharper than 20° but the other side is sharpened duller than 25°, ended up using some 600 grit sandpaper removing the burr.

I'm saving up to send it to tom krein and do a FFG regrind on it.
 
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