Burr Removal Edge-Leading Strokes. Why?

P

peanutaxis

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May 7, 2023
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Hi,

When sharpening a knife on a whetstone, most sources seem to recommend edge-leading strokes at the burr removal stage. Why is this?


Thanks,
p
 
For the most part, it's simply more effective to do it edge-leading on a stone, and it'll also leave the apex stronger and more durable in doing so. The idea is to get the burr very thin and leaning to one side. Then fold it underneath the bevel in contact with the stone, so it can be neatly scrubbed off, leaving only a strong & stable apex behind. That can usually be done in just a very light edge-leading stroke or two per side on a stone.

If the steel is very ductile at all, edge-trailing will usually just draw out the burr further, making it broader and thinner (more flimsy) at the same time, and therefore more tedious to clean up. Burrs can eventually be reduced or removed this way if the touch is very, very light. But again, in doing so, it may tend to draw out the edge and make it too thin and too weak to be durable.
 
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Because nothing sucks more than a razor sharp knife you pull out if your pocket first thing in the morning to cut your first zip tie, or felt or whatever and a burr folds turning it into a butter knife and having to bludgen your way through things the rest of the day.

Sharpening wise, because it works. I raise a burr with strokes both directions, deburr with coarse stone. Then refine the edge by doing edge leading strokes only on my next two stones. Then I strop on something compressible like denim or leather to fully deburr. I've had no burr issues since.

I recommend you checkout the science of sharp website. His electron microscope pictures are worth a ton, he has articles on deburring.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
For the most part, it's simply more effective to do it edge-leading on a stone, and it'll also leave the apex stronger and more durable in doing so. The idea is to get the burr very thin and leaning to one side. Then fold it underneath the bevel in contact with the stone, so it can be neatly scrubbed off, leaving only a strong & stable apex behind. That can usually be done in just a very light edge-leading stroke or two per side on a stone.

If the steel is very ductile at all, edge-trailing will usually just draw out the burr further, making it broader and thinner (more flimsy) at the same time, and therefore more tedious to clean up. Burrs can eventually be reduced or removed this way if the touch is very, very light. But again, in doing so, it may tend to draw out the edge and make it too thin and too weak to be durable.
Click to expand...

Wow that was very well explained and I definitely learned something. Thank you. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks guys, very informative. So basically it seems that edge-trailing would just push the burr the other way and _out_ of the way meaning it will just stay there.
The combination of being edge-leading and very light pressure means that you _don't_ fold the burr the other way and it gets dragged under the blade, folding back on itself so it can't stay intact and falls away.
 
Yep that seems to agree with my experiences sharpening, but I wouldn't before have been able articulate it so precisely as David did above.
 
I've used all trailing edge strokes before too, mostly when sharpening with a belt. You can get good results but it does take some work to get the burr off clean. As others have said a light edge leading stroke is the most efficient way of removing the burr.
 
It honestly depends on the burr. I found the edge trailing to reduce the burr then stropping on leather for instance yelds best results. You can also strop on really fine stone like 8-12k to remove the last bits instead of leather stropping.
Some burrs are really strong and will require edge-leading into hard stone at higher angle to get removed.
Just don't forget if you can't see burr with naked eye or feel it with your finger it doesn't mean its not there. I suggest getting a microscope x80+ that will allow you to see what is actually happening and figure out whats best for the knives/steel that you're sharpening.
 
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