Burr removal on brown rods?

[awestib]

Hi Guys!
Once again a burr question but somewhat more specific.

Lets say I just want to use the diamond rods and the brown rods on the sharpmaker to sharpen my knife and only on the 20 degr setting. Lets say my Benchmade folder with D2. No finer rods or strop etc. afterwards allowed!!

I just alternate strokes, not too much pressure and even reduce pressure as I sharpen along. Once I think I am done on the brown rods and I think I have a burr (or I can even see a burr on the edge), how do I remove it? I don't like the idea of scraping the burr off on wood with even lighter strokes on the browns after, although that probably works?! I remember a video on Youtube where someone finishes up with a few strokes on the same side, then overobtuse the angle (by 5 degr? or 10 degr?) and continues on the same side to cut off the burr. Or should I just put a 25 degr Microbevel on both sides by tipping the sharpmaker a bit? Any suggestions? Do I likely have a burr at all if I continue to reduce the pressure on the brown rods more and more?

I hope my question is not too confusing!

Thanks all in advance!
Andy

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

The more knives I've sharpened, and the more I've developed some feel for it, the less issues I've had with burrs. Ceramic can create some pretty good burrs on the edge, and by the same token, it therefore can remove them. It's all about lightening pressure as you get closer to being finished with each stage. If you're at the brown rods already, and notice there's still a significant burr on the edge, you can either begin to remove it with those rods, or take a step back to the coarse (diamond) rods and do it with those, but at MUCH lighter pressure. There's really no such thing as going TOO light with pressure, especially as you get closer to a truly sharp, refined edge. With the triangular Sharpmaker rods, you can make this somewhat easier by using the flats of the rods, instead of the corners, when working on removing the burr and refining the edge. Too much pressure on the corners of the rods will magnify the force being exerted on the edge. Using the flats helps to spread those forces out a bit.

I used to do the wood scraping thing, to remove burrs that I hadn't noticed earlier in the sharpening process. But, if care is taken to keep lightening pressure as you go, there shouldn't be much, if any, need for it. A side benefit of lightening the pressure as you go is, whatever burrs you might create will gradually become less of an issue. I've learned that BIG burrs, for the most part, come from overdoing it in the early stages, at the coarse phase. The goal is to just 'sneak up' on the burr early, just enough to know you've apexed the edge. THAT'S the point where you immediately start lightening up. Make a few very light strokes with your coarse hone, and this will begin the burr removal/refinement stage. With light pressure, you should be able to remove most of the burr even before progressing to the finer hones. The finer hones will be used mainly for refining & polishing the bevel.

 

[pwet]

the easiest way i've found to sharpen and deburr on the same stone is starting at say ... 20 passes per side and decreasing strokes gradually.

say 20/20 then 18/18, 16/16. check for burr often and finish with a serie of 2/2 and 1/1 at very light pressure. if you get your burr early it should go by itself when alternating this way.