I've noticed that depending upon what side is facing up ie; right or left. when I check to see if my knife is sharp enough to cut hair. example some times it will cut hair with right side up but when I flip it over won't cut hair. Now I believe that I am leaving a burr. I have noticed that my 20° guide for my darex doesn't hold the same knife at equal angles on both sides. Has anyone experienced this problem? And does anyone prefer the 20° over the 25° or vise versa
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Burr removal with darex
- Thread starter tziegler
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2012
- Messages
- 1,764
When you are trying to cut hair, I assume you are taking about arm hair?
Are you going in the same direction with both sides?
Meaning are you going from elbow to wrist on one arm then changing hands and going elbow to wrist with the other side of the knife on the other arm?
Or are you using the same arm and going one way on one side of the knife - then flipping the knife over and moving it in the opposite direction?
Are you going in the same direction with both sides?
Meaning are you going from elbow to wrist on one arm then changing hands and going elbow to wrist with the other side of the knife on the other arm?
Or are you using the same arm and going one way on one side of the knife - then flipping the knife over and moving it in the opposite direction?
Sorry about the confusion. I was going from elbow to wrist in same direction but originally I wasn't and then changed and that is when I realized it was only cutting in one certain way. Now I have achieved hair cutting no matter what direction or side on some knives. These are not $100 knives. They kershaw zing, volt and leek Stainless steel knives. So I don't think it's the knives. I think it's me and not enough experience with the darex. I have all the different micro mesh belts but I don't use every size grit. I have chosen a combination of 9 belts. Starting at the 80 and ending with 12000 regular
You say "good burr" and then "burr that you want". To me what you want is a burr that you can detect, from heel to tip, along the whole edge. I use the worksharp Ken Onion without guides, freehand. On just about every blade I sharpen, the burr forms in one area of the blade first, and then as I work it more, the burr forms along the rest of the edge. What I do, to minimize time and steel removal, is to work the areas where the burr has NOT formed yet. That way I concentrate the grinding where it is needed most. I also do blending strokes across the entire blade from time to time so it doesn't get uneven. I've got a youtube video of how I do it if you have any interest.
This would probably be pretty hard to do with the guides in place, but I guess you could put (for example) the first two inches into the machine, *then* turn it on and draw those two inches through the belt/guide. That would work just that part of the blade.
Or you could just shotgun it and run the entire blade over and over until you form a full length burr. Either way you go, you want the burr on the entire edge.
Best of luck to you.
Brian.
This would probably be pretty hard to do with the guides in place, but I guess you could put (for example) the first two inches into the machine, *then* turn it on and draw those two inches through the belt/guide. That would work just that part of the blade.
Or you could just shotgun it and run the entire blade over and over until you form a full length burr. Either way you go, you want the burr on the entire edge.
Best of luck to you.
Brian.