Burr removal?

B

Bo-dacious

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Aug 13, 2016
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408
Hey guys, my question for today is about burr removal. I've seen several ways to remove burrs including using the sharpening stone softly stroking at a steep angle, using a strop (i don't think that's the best way, but I don't know for sure), using soft wood, and others. What do you guys think are the best way? If it's wood, what kind of wood? So far, I haven't found a way to remove that burr that can be done in just a stroke or 2. Am I doing it wrong, or is I supposed to take 5 strokes?
Please let me know guys. I'm aware that stropping removes the tiny burr after a high grit sharpening, I'm talking about 600-2000# or so.

Thank you so much,

BO-DACIOUS
 
I've never liked high-angle burr removal methods, mainly because if technique and touch aren't perfect, you run the risk of folding over or otherwise blunting or altering the very fine edge behind the burr. I've always preferred keeping the angle as close as possible to the target sharpening angle, and instead gradually reducing the pressure, to thin the burrs present on the apex to a point where they're so thin and fragile, a few swipes on a simple strop of bare leather or with minimally-aggressive compound will remove them. If stropping as such isn't working, then I always (always) go back to the stones and do some more thinning of the burr until the strop can remove it easily. And sometimes, it may not even need any stropping at all, save for a pass or two on the jeans.

This isn't to say the high-angle technique doesn't or can't work. It's just that if I've made the effort to create as fine an edge as possible at a given angle, I don't want to risk altering it by raising the angle and perhaps going just hair too heavy and taking more steel off (behind the burr) at an apex angle I didn't want, effectively microbevelling the edge when that isn't my goal.

And on the topic, in the last few minutes before seeing this thread, I'd been touching up the edge on my Sebenza (S30V), on a Coarse (325) DMT credit card, forming an obvious burr which grabbed lots of fibers from a terrycloth rag I was using to wipe the blade. I 'turned the burr' a few times each way, using gradually decreasing pressure on the hone and maintaining the same angle. A few swipes on the sueded side of a leather belt (free-hanging/barber style) took that burr off, after which the edge zipped cleanly lengthwise through a sheet of phonebook paper, and then shaved hair from my forearm. It works. :)


David
 
Last edited:
The ERU is one of the very best ways to remove a burr at a prescribed angle. It removes the burr from both sides at the same time. Follow the removal of the burr by making a slight adjustment in angle and strop to a fine finish.
I have tried them all and this precision tool does it better than anything I've ever tried.
Check us out here edgerucom

Regards, Fred
 
I don't steepen the angle but I do freshen the stone surface. I use water stones so I make sure it is well rinsed and or go at it with the nagura stone to clean the pores of the stone. If the stone has not been flattened for a while it tends to also get a bit "glazed" so if that is the case I flatten the stone on a diamond plate to bring up fresh sharp abrasive in the surface. . . not slurry . . . F__ slurry.

Short strokes against the edge as opposed to edge trailing and once the wire edge comes off on the stone, you can see little bits of it starting to let go and sit on the stone, then I rinse the stone again and do some short edge trailing strokes one each side back and forth.

This is all pretty nit picky and if you are just cutting up food or card board then . . . really . . . who cares but I am talking about how I handle wood working hand tool edges especially hand plane blades. I find attention to the minutia pays off in being able to cut longer and leave a better surface. Sand paper NEVER ever needed kind of surface. The highest quality wood surface imaginable kind of surface. it's pretty satisfying.
 
Fred.Rowe said:
The ERU is one of the very best ways to remove a burr at a prescribed angle. It removes the burr from both sides at the same time. Follow the removal of the burr by making a slight adjustment in angle and strop to a fine finish.
I have tried them all and this precision tool does it better than anything I've ever tried.
Check us out here edgerucom

Regards, Fred
Click to expand...

Okay I'll consider that. However, I'm more I to free hand sharpening. I want to get good at this craft for several reasons, not the least of which I find it very fun. Thanks for the link, I may try it.

BO-DACIOUS
 
A
Wowbagger said:
I don't steepen the angle but I do freshen the stone surface. I use water stones so I make sure it is well rinsed and or go at it with the nagura stone to clean the pores of the stone. If the stone has not been flattened for a while it tends to also get a bit "glazed" so if that is the case I flatten the stone on a diamond plate to bring up fresh sharp abrasive in the surface. . . not slurry . . . F__ slurry.

Short strokes against the edge as opposed to edge trailing and once the wire edge comes off on the stone, you can see little bits of it starting to let go and sit on the stone, then I rinse the stone again and do some short edge trailing strokes one each side back and forth.

This is all pretty nit picky and if you are just cutting up food or card board then . . . really . . . who cares but I am talking about how I handle wood working hand tool edges especially hand plane blades. I find attention to the minutia pays off in being able to cut longer and leave a better surface. Sand paper NEVER ever needed kind of surface. The highest quality wood surface imaginable kind of surface. it's pretty satisfying.
Click to expand...


Okay thank you for taking the time to help me.

BO-DACIOUS
 
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