Bush Axe from bps

Joined
Mar 20, 2023
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127
In terms of ergonomics, it is well made and is very capable of handling your favorite activities.
I've had it for almost a year and now I dared to post about it. Still not bad axes from BeaverCraft

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I’m glad you’re happy with it, but I don’t really consider that design a true axe or hatchet. It’s been a fad lately to forgo a proper axe head in favor of a slab of steel with scales glued on. Mora makes a similar design, and I’ve used it only to find that it lacks the punch I need from a real axe or hatchet.
 
I'll counter silly man Sorenson as I like the mora axe a lot for the kids, because it's light enough for them to easily control, and as a carving, shaping, crafting axe.

I do think the mora axe has a longer handle and that's one place where I've wondered if that Beavercraft is even useful. Without much length, is there enough leverage to amplify the forces? I've thought similar on axes/hawks like the CRKT and RMJ jenny wren, CRKT doing a budget version.

D Dasha Buyanova do you find the handle length acceptable for chopping much or is it more of a crafting/carving axe?

I like to keep a small axe or hawk in the car for winter, though it stays in all the time, and going too small makes it useless. Right now, I have a cold steel war hawk, or whatever the plastic hawk is called (they have 2 plastic handled hawks).
 
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I'll counter silly man Orenson
Your criticism is harsh, but fair 😜

I do think the mora axe has a longer handle and that's one place where I've wondered if that Beavercraft is even useful.
Don’t forget the lack of “full tang” in the mora keeps it balanced more like a traditional axe, which puts the weight in the business end. It’s just better bang per ounce. I’d have the same thing to saw about the venerable Estwing A24.

I didn’t say the Mora isn’t useful, merely that it doesn’t have all the functionality I’d want compared to a more traditional design.
 
I don't inherently have anything against slab-construction axes, and even designed one recently, but a lot of factors have to be taken into account in order for it to approach the functionality of a traditional axe or hatchet. That isn't to say that this one isn't capable of doing jobs for you, but I see a number of elements that I probably would have done differently regardless of the specific intended context of use.
 
Your criticism is harsh, but fair 😜


Don’t forget the lack of “full tang” in the mora keeps it balanced more like a traditional axe, which puts the weight in the business end. It’s just better bang per ounce. I’d have the same thing to saw about the venerable Estwing A24.

I didn’t say the Mora isn’t useful, merely that it doesn’t have all the functionality I’d want compared to a more traditional design.

I'm aware the mora isn't full tang, like the fiskars hatchet isn't. I only brought itnup as you compared the mora to the Beavercraft axe.

I do wonder if the beavercraft would've been better with a flat poll for hammering or baton against vs the spike. I know the flat side of the mora benefits from something to wack since it's not a good splitter, but does make a nice froe for small stuff still.
 
I call them hatchet shaped knives.
They've been around a long time with hunters combos from Utica and Imperial, more expensive combo's from Case ,Olean / KA-Bar, blade changer combo's, and later hunters combos from Buck and Camillus.

They work, but they don't work as well as a true hatchet, and while things may be different with the tactical variety that's popular I do not believe the original form of these was intended for wood.
They were paired with a modestly sized hunting knife for good reason, the intention was originally game processing.
 
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I won't take this off the rails here, but color me curious.

I do love the taste of my hats at this point.
I can't say more at the moment but once they hit the market I'll post up a thread. I still prefer a traditional head for most purposes but I think for the context of use of the one in question the slab format does have merits and I was able to minimize the negative tradeoffs pretty well without making the build overly complicated. Like Hickory n steel said, they're especially well suited to game processing. Usually a major issue like seen in this example is that scales that run behind the bit mean that you can run into some clearance issues since the head doesn't spread material enough to clear the scales and you end up bashing them. And with thinner stocked ones getting a proper forward balance is tough.
 
I'll counter silly man Sorenson as I like the mora axe a lot for the kids, because it's light enough for them to easily control, and as a carving, shaping, crafting axe.

I do think the mora axe has a longer handle and that's one place where I've wondered if that Beavercraft is even useful. Without much length, is there enough leverage to amplify the forces? I've thought similar on axes/hawks like the CRKT and RMJ jenny wren, CRKT doing a budget version.

D Dasha Buyanova do you find the handle length acceptable for chopping much or is it more of a crafting/carving axe?

I like to keep a small axe or hawk in the car for winter, though it stays in all the time, and going too small makes it useless. Right now, I have a cold steel war hawk, or whatever the plastic hawk is called (they have 2 plastic handled hawks).
I think this is purely an ax for chopping wood and for the house (if I’m talking about the bps ax). For the home, I mean for everything) But for serious people, the robot may not be suitable, I haven’t tried it, can someone tell me?
 
It’s been a fad lately to forgo a proper axe head in favor of a slab of steel with scales glued on.
A handle length that short tires out your arms. Add in the thin head and it's basically a glorified Ulu. Almost every mechanical advantage is gone.
Cool looking though. Fine for tinder making or really small stuff but even then it'll take awhile. Probably batons good , it's thin enough for it. If your arms hold out long enough to chop a decent baton you're all set.
 
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