Bush Baby tan G10

[BMK]

Finished this one up today. Bead blasted the hande and left the blade alone on this one, I did chamfer the tubing though I have some carbon fiber round and tube stock on order that I think will look great with light colored G10.

 

[Will Leavitt]

Looking good, looks like you moved the bolt hole to a nice visual centering. I dunno if it's the lighting but also running a q tip or cloth bore brush through the thong tubing to get it nice and clean is a nice detail for most customers on here.

I prefer the unblued versions... just my opinion on that.

 

[Darrin Sanders]

I agree with Will, the unblued pieces are more appealing to me. Just that tiny bit of chamfering makes the tube look much better too. I'm diggin that sandblasted look, gotta get me a cabinet.

 

[BMK]

Thank you for commenting. Front pin was moved up 1/16. Now I know that "center" and "visual center" are not always one and the same. About a 30 caliber bore brush I should think - good idea, thanks. I prefer the unblued version as well. The etched might look better with wood scales. I am getting a large bandsaw to rip stock and I'm going to try some wood scales. After being advised by several forum members, I am (strongly) considering 1095 instead of 01 for the next batch.

 

[Darrin Sanders]

1095 & O1 H/T very much the same way. If you can accurately control temp. and soak time you can get the most out of either steel. In my opinion O1 is a better choice because it makes a little better blade and doesn't require a super fast quench medium. If controlling your temps is the reason for changing from O1 to something else I would go to 1084 or 1080. Another plus for O1 is that most of it comes spheroidized annealed with a nice scale free finish. Many of the 10XX series steels are NOT annealed and have mill scale that needs to be removed so be careful what you buy if you switch. CRA (cold rolled annealed) is the way to go with 10XX steels. Just my .02.

 

[chainring]

The sandblast is definitely a nice texture. Looks good.