Bush Monkey Neck Knife for WSS Challenge

BMK

BMK

BANNED
Joined
Jan 30, 2011
Messages
831
Javelina: OAL 6", 2 1/2 x 1 1/8 x 1/8" 58-60RC 01 tool steel blade, corby bolt up front and flared tube in the back, bead blast OD & black scales. Kydex sheath with adjustable paracord to be worn centered on chest or on strong side with paracord across chest.

IMG_1305.jpg


IMG_1306.jpg


IMG_1308.jpg


IMG_1310.jpg


Thanks for looking
 
Last edited:
These are so on my list when funds allow. I need to see how this will perform on the hogs on my place.
 
Thank you - glad you like it. It's much more friendly here than the Shop Talk forum:D
 
Last edited:
I like that thing. Are you doing more, possibly with those sweet higher grinds?
Are you molding your own kydex?

I've been meaning to ask, how do you shape your scales so consistently? Are you using a router and jig? The flat & machined style really suits your knives.

-Daizee
 
Daizee,

Thank you. This knife knife is a variant of one I offer on a regular basis. I take the bevel full aft sometimes because it is more functional and easier to sharpen. I only scandi and convex bevel and the higher scandi you mentioned is the result of not removing as much material from the flats - the bevel has always remained the same at 12.5 degrees. I use a jig for the scandi bevels. The radiused handle is done with a router using a roundover bit and sometimes a chamfer bit.

My R&D Director "Tony" (below) maintains: the more curves, buldges and indents and funk a handle has, the better it might feel for one particular hold - this usually comes at the expense of feeling awkward when using many different holds. The human hand is the most versatile tool ever designed and is therefore able to adapt its grip to almost any shape. Some grips compliment that versatility and some stifle it.

Kydex..yes, I do my own.

octpm2011.jpg


Jeff
 
Last edited:
BMK, I think I agree about the handle ergos. I've been working on mine from knife-to-knife, and sometimes generic is best. Round is certainly no good as there's no intuitive index to the knife.

Do you have a picture of that little sweetheart with something in the frame for scale? I've read the dimensions, but you know about pictures and all.

With your description of the bevels I now better understand the variations in your blades, I think.
The same scandi bevel on a thicker blade will result in a higher (toward the spine) grind. So you've effectively taken a common honing angle and just made it a single bevel on each side instead of a primary and secondary? I like the simplicity of that approach. When you sharpen, do you hone that entire bevel at 12.5d per side, or do you put a microbevel on the very edge?

-Daizee
 
Last edited:
Thank you all for looking and commenting.
 
Last edited:
Daizee,

Thank you. There are situations when you use a knife by feel (only). In those situations, "intuitive tacticle indexing" becomes important. Also, if you have a need to lash the knife to something, a flat handle is easier to secure.


I don't have any pictures that show the scale of the knife above - sorry. I have medium hands and I can get 4 fingers on the handle if I choke up on the grip.

12.5 is a common Scandi bevel. I prefer a single bevel to zero and I only offer Scandi and convex bevels on my knives. The entire bevel is sharpened on the Scandi so as not to alter the blade geometry. No secondary bevels, no micro bevels.



Jeff
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top