- Joined
- Apr 11, 2001
- Messages
- 2,978
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Here's a drawing showing the first production run on top, then the template I am now using for all bushcrafts "in the works" and then on bottom the new design - which I have further modified.
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The cool thing about the third design is that those the liked the first two won't be affected by the new third one. For example, if the first-run knife fit your hand well....the new one will still fit your hand. But now it will also fit those with wider palms and longer fingers. And if you liked the guard...you'll like having a little more guard.
So, I think overall...I really like where this is headed.
The striker tip is part looks and part function (aids in penetrating materials). It's not a swedge...totally different. If you look at the tip from the top (spine) not much material has been removed. Just enough to help you get the knife in deeper into whatever it is you're using it for...including opening letters, cutting cardboard, carving wood, digging, drilling holes, cutting leather/skins, skinning, stabbing, and so on.
I call it a striker tip because I respect Busse and don't want to piggyback on their great ideas/designs.
I put it on a bushcraft because I was having trouble doing fine cutting in soft materials...the thickness was destroying the materials...and sticking the knife straight into a material required more force than I wanted. After getting the striker tip, all the above activities were much, much easier.
And as far as I can tell, it does not weaken the tip.
I grind it at the same angle as the scandi grind...so, it's pretty stout.
....I think it may be a "done deal" now....I'll start a poll next week to see what everybody thinks overall...
Dan
Dan......... the question ?
When the time comes for you to make the bottom knife.....
..........will you make it of .. CPM 3V ....like most of the other fine Bushcraft models ??
[Don't say "no"... I have waited too long for this knife.]

MERRY CHRISTMAS ............