Bushcraft Axe Project

E

engle's-wilder

Joined
Nov 18, 2010
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82
Ok, so I found an article online of a guy who made his own bushcraft axe. He used the 24 oz. camp axe from northern tool pictured here:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6257_200316257

His article is posted here:

http://thesharpenedaxe.blogspot.com/...ors-bruks.html

To sum up what he did, he got that cheapy hatchet and removed the handle and rehung a GB small forest axe handle on it (adding about 8 inches of grip from original length)

So my question to all of you is, would this be any good. It's a cheapy alternative to a Wetterlings or GB, but is the steel on this any good? Anybody ever used the inexpensive 24 oz. camp axe before? how does it take an edge? would this be a good idea with a different head? if so, any ideas on what other head I could get? (please no China crap :barf:) oh, & my intended use is also bushcrafting.

thanks

Oh, p.s.: I have been doing some research online for vintage axe heads to do this with... I just have no Idea which heads are made well (even if their rusted or dinged a bit). I don't know which vintage heads would work for this either... anyone know what old-school brands are safe-bets? Is a Norlund or Plumb any good?
 
Both of the links seem to point to something that cannot be found.
 
Norlund and Plumb both make good axes.I would look for an older bargain before I would buy a name I'm not familiar with.

Where I live there is a open sale adjacent to the local cattle auction house every Mon..A lot of retired guys setting up tables.Lots of old tools around.Surely you have something similar where you live.
 
DerekH said:
Both of the links seem to point to something that cannot be found.
Click to expand...

Ditto.

I read a blog once where this guy said the best old axe heads were Snow and Neally but can't for the life of me remember the blog. He lived in maine and I think it was mainly about canoes. He actually sold old heads he came across.
 
oops, sorry about those links... I don't know what happened... Well, hope these work this time:

1) http://www.amazon.com/Northern-Tool-Equipment-24-Oz-Camp/dp/B000A3BUCE?tag=benza-20

2) http://thesharpenedaxe.blogspot.com/2010/11/cheap-alternative-to-gransfors-bruks.html

hopefully those work...

Really, you'd go with old and beaten before newer... that seems odd to me, but your probably right (considering outsourcing and the cheap crap that's being churned out by the truckloads these days).
I looked at a couple old snow and neally's on ebay... I think I'll make a bid on one.
And you say the plumbs are ok too... hmm...

thanks guys!
 
I hung a 1 1/2 pound True Temper head on a 24 inch handle about a decade ago. It has been in various camps for 18-20 week ends each year. If I am going to a small camp it is usually the only axe I carry.

This is the size of the old Husdon Bay survival axe and has done a good job for me within its parimeters. I would not want to clear a farm with it, but It would do fine for a trappers' cabin or making a solid shelter from what is available.
 
Buy the real deal. Do not put all of your time and money into a crappy axe. Besides, a GB or Wetterlings will outlast it any day and you can pass it on when you die, because there is a good chance you will have one that long. In the end you get what you pay for.
 
PDE said:
Buy the real deal. Do not put all of your time and money into a crappy axe. Besides, a GB or Wetterlings will outlast it any day and you can pass it on when you die, because there is a good chance you will have one that long. In the end you get what you pay for.
Click to expand...

The article actually goes on and the fella who wrote it says his modified axe outperforms the GB axe... That could be worth the time if it is indeed true. I say to the OP: Try it for us and let us know how it performs!
 
With the newer hardware store axe heads, the steel quality and heat treatment can be hit or miss. You can buy 10 axes from the same manufacturer and maybe half of em will be rubbish. Then again, you could get lucky like the guy you were referring to and score a head with a surprisngly good HT and steel composition. If you want to test your luck, by all means go for it. But I'd suggest getting an older head. The quality was a lot better back then and most of the older stuff is US made, so you know its good :D. A lot of the new stuff its drop forged garbage from the PRC and India.
 
engle's-wilder said:
Really, you'd go with old and beaten before newer... that seems odd to me, but your probably right (considering outsourcing and the cheap crap that's being churned out by the truckloads these days).
I looked at a couple old snow and neally's on ebay... I think I'll make a bid on one.
And you say the plumbs are ok too... hmm...

thanks guys!
Click to expand...

To paraphrase what others have said, when it comes to axes, those of days gone by when men made their living with an axe the quality was MUCH better. Check out this quote from by Tim Smith of Jack Mountain Bushcraft...

The axe is the most versatile and useful tool to have with you in the forest. It can help you build a first-class shelter, put up a sizable pile of firewood, drive tent pegs, split logs, etc., etc., etc. As with all tools, when looking for an axe you should try and get the best one that you can. The best axes made in the world were made in the northeast before the crosscut saw came into wide use. These were hand-forged of two pieces of steel; a harder, well-tempered piece for the bit and a softer piece that was hammered around the eye. The axes were the best because they were used all day, every day in the woods and the men who used them demanded quality. The single-bit axe, or poll axe, was the standard until the double-bit came along and began replacing it. Not too long after, the crosscut saw became widely used, then the chain saw. With the proliferation of the chain saw the axe was no longer used on a daily basis, and as such there was no longer a market for well-made axes. The modern axes made in the USA are usually poured into a mold and tempered one hardness throughout. They're often too soft to hold a decent edge, or too hard to sharpen with a file. In either case, they're not good for much except splitting kindling or cutting roots in the ground. There are still good axes available new from Scandinavia, where the axe is still widely used. There are also many great axe heads to be found at antique stores, used tool stores, and flea markets that represent the highest echelon of the axe-maker's craft. A good test for these is to run a new, sharp file along the edge to sharpen it. If it's too soft, the file will push the edge over. If it's too hard, the file will skip. If it's just right, grab onto the axe with both hands and don't let go until you pay for it and get it home.
Click to expand...
 
Google: Pole, Paddle, Canoe. Don Merchant. He knows a quality axe head.

Shotgun said:
Ditto.

I read a blog once where this guy said the best old axe heads were Snow and Neally but can't for the life of me remember the blog. He lived in maine and I think it was mainly about canoes. He actually sold old heads he came across.
Click to expand...
 
KYNabob said:
I hung a 1 1/2 pound True Temper head on a 24 inch handle about a decade ago. It has been in various camps for 18-20 week ends each year. If I am going to a small camp it is usually the only axe I carry.

This is the size of the old Husdon Bay survival axe and has done a good job for me within its parimeters. I would not want to clear a farm with it, but It would do fine for a trappers' cabin or making a solid shelter from what is available.
Click to expand...

That's what I'd do. If you check out my blog I actually got a really nice (no name) camp axe head by putting out ads for old axe heads on local internet forums. Doesn't have to have the name on it to be a good axe. One of my favorites is a no name 2 lb. head I got at a yard sale for a buck. Sharp as anything and splits well - and I've got 4 snow and neally's (3 oldies, one new one), they all work well, too.

And I'm not going against what was written on my my blog, Ross has done a lot of tests and is very knowledgeable. - he's just looking for a quality, cheap alternative and found it. You have to do what's right for you. Bottom line is, you'd only be out a few bones trying it his way. I'm going to do it, that's for sure.

Mike Oscar Hotel

www.thesharpenedaxe.blogspot.com
 
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Ive found Collins,Vaughans,Plumbs,Tru-temper's,True-test etc at tag/ garage sales for cheap through the years.I dont think Ive ever spent more than 5$ and that was for a double bit Collins. I also dont think I ve ever bought one with a good handle Clean em,sharpen em,re-haft em. Ive kept the best ones and sold the rest. I dont think I'd spend the money for a new one when there are so many really good quality used ones out there waiting to be found and re-done Just my $.02 worth.--KV
 
I don't mean to sound too smart ass; but are you saying: put helve in axe eye-you have an axe?
pretty amazing but true. if you put a handle on an axe head it will work more easy:D

but hey; if you are looking for old axe heads the only mystery is what life has it lived. It was not too uncommon for people to burn the broken handle from a head. Not to mention aggressive power grinding ruining the temper.

Sometimes they're only a buck; but I wouldn't spend much on an oldie unless it looked largely unused or at least rightly used.

true temper-flint edge. bluegrass, keen cutter, are some that come to mind right off. good luck.

Neverthe less there is something obvious looking with the swedish design that tells you it is intended to deliver the edge with efficient authority.
 
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