bushcraft knife help

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d.weglarz13

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Jun 4, 2008
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just wondering what the grit is that comes on the bushcraft knives. i want to sharpen, but would like to keep the same look from when i got it. it is beautiful and very sharp, and would like to know EXACTLY how to keep it that way without going for a complete mirror finish. I was thinking of purchasing either water stones or dmt diamond stones (not sure,any advice?), and would love to keep sharp without changing the finish. i was thinking of getting myself a new set of stones for Christmas, so any advice would be great. thanks
 
I put on a 120 grit finish on the bushcraft scandi grinds. So, any medium grit stone will match the grind markings.

I like my edges to be "polished toothy"....stropped 120/200 grit "teeth". The result is an edge that will pushcut with a little effort/patience, but drawcut like crazy all day long.

And I highly recommend the DMT Diamond stones....they are worth every penny for sharpening higher end CPM steels (like 3V !)

Dan
 
sorry Dan, or anyone, but from what i have known 200 grit is for reprofiling an edge or fixing a chip in the blade isn't it? if so, then how are they still so sharp?
one more question if you don't mind, i really like the idea of water stones, could i use a water stone to sharpen 3v scandi, or this can't handle it? if not, could i use water with diamond ones? thanks for all the help and patience.

David Weglarz
 
Only reprofile on a coarse stone, and only if you absolutely have to. Otherwise, you're wasting a lot of good usable edge just to get a nick out.

Somewhere I have posted a video of me slicing though a sheet of paper with a convex edge sharpened at 120 grit (not even stropped). Just need a light touch (well controlled).


Use a 200 grit (or medium grit stone) for touching up dull edges.

Use a finer grit or strop for maintaining a "not quite sharp" edge.


The problem with water stones and scandi grinds is that they do not stay flat....you have to constantly lap them. Scandi grinds need to be flat to perform best.

That's why I highly, highly recommend the DMT diamond stones. They are aggressive (diamonds) and they stay flat...all the time, every time.


Here is the strop I use - and love it!

http://www.jreindustries.com/strops.htm


Dan
 
Those diamond stones also work great on other steels as well. In fact, if you have anything in D2, diamond stones are IMO the only way to go. Once you try one, you will love. They are worth every penny.
 
thanks guys. there are so many to choose from, and from what i see on the DMT site, they have coarse, then fine. i don't see any medium stones?nothing in between? could you reccomend a specific one please? again, trying to keep the original look on the grind. thanks for the advice. i really appreciate the help.
 
I got mine from a store and so am probably not fully aware of all that DMT offers (I haven't looked online either), but I ended up with one that IIRC was coarse on one side and fine on the other. That has worked fine for me.
 
specific color grit is what i hope to find out, really. all of this talk of grits are giving me a headache. lol. any advice? thanks
 
Dan-

How about tips for sharpening a 3V scandi on a 1x42 sander?

Could I simply run the bevel on the belt when it's backed up by the platen?

I ask because I'm getting a Delta SA180 from my wife for giftmas.

By the way, I've just received a box of 40 through 1200 grit belts from Lee Valley including the leather belt and green compound.
 
d.weglarz13 said:
specific color grit is what i hope to find out, really. all of this talk of grits are giving me a headache. lol. any advice? thanks
Click to expand...

For something portable, get this:

http://www.dmtsharp.com/products/diafold.htm
Double Sided Diafold
FWFC

fwfc1.gif



Use the blue side for serious regrinding....the red side for touch-up. Then use a strop for final honing.



If you can swing it ($$$) get a benchstone setup like this:

http://www.dmtsharp.com/products/diasharp.htm
DiaSharp Double Sided 6" Diamond Stone
(heavy, but very nice for scandi sharpening)

DMT-D6FC-small.jpg



Or even better, one of these:

http://www.dmtsharp.com/products/duosharp.htm
DuoSharp 8" Bench Stone

41YZD2HBTDL._SL500_AA280_.jpg



You can get a base for these...but it's not essential...just makes it more convenient






PB Wilson said:
Dan-

How about tips for sharpening a 3V scandi on a 1x42 sander?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't.

In fact, it drives me crazy to have to sharpen these on a belt sander after they are already glued-up. Difficult and stressful. That's why I grind it all the way to a burr ahead of time..before glue-up...so I only have to strop afterwards (much easier).

PB Wilson said:
Could I simply run the bevel on the belt when it's backed up by the platen?

I ask because I'm getting a Delta SA180 from my wife for giftmas.

By the way, I've just received a box of 40 through 1200 grit belts from Lee Valley including the leather belt and green compound.
Click to expand...

I love the 1x42 Delta SA180 sander....but it'll make you want to pitch the knife through the wall trying to do scandi grinds. Unless you can build a fancy jig to hold it at a consistent angle...it is much harder than hollow-grinding or flat-grinding a blade. Even worse since you can't slow the belt down on these lil' grinders.

I hate to be a downer...but hey, you asked. :p


Dan
 
Last edited:
figured i'd ask, anyone know what kind or color of stropping compound Mr. Koster uses on the 1st and 2nd run bushcraft knives after sharpening at that grit? i want to keep this thing as scary sharp as it is now, thanks.
 
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