Bushcraft/Woodlore evolution

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Sep 22, 2003
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I was re reading a 2006 issue of the now defunct Bushcraft UK magazine.

In it was an interview with knifemaker Alan Wood who was the person who first made Ray Mears Woodlore Bushcraft knife.

I thought I'd share a bit of the article:

I first met Ray Mears at a London arms fair in the late 80's when his friend introduced the fresh faced blond as the guy who designed the Wilkinson Sword Survival Knife. I asked if he should really be bragging about such a thing, and commented that the chances were that such a beast would be left in the drawer when a wilderness situation occurred, and that a 4" drop point would serve the wilderness traveller better. He just smiled and left.

I found out later that Ray was responsible for the shape and grind of the big knife and it was the people at the factory who decided to add the mickey mouse bits to make it sell better to the Rambo crowd.

About a year later, Ray contacted me to discuss a British knife specifically designed for bushcraft. He visitied with a friend who was producing a magazine for Survival Aids, and we discussed his concept.

He wanted a smallish knife that was to become the Woodlore Neck Knife due to it's sheath design that allowed it to be carried around the neck or slung under the arm for discreet carrying and Arctic use. He wanted carbon steel; a full non tapered tang; the short Nordic grind; a wood handle from native trees and a simple design.

Having moved on to stainless I wasn't convinced about the steel choice, and the short grind was against all conventional wisdom whch promoted the convex Moran grind as the ultimate strength/cutting-ability solution. He left and took a 4.1" D2 Spearpoint with a brass guard and micarta handle to use, and to see if the shape was okay. This knife I still have. It has a very mild hollow grind and a heavy convex bevelled edge..........


........He returned the knife and was so unimpressed by the difficulty of sharpening the D2 that he was adamant about wanting non-stainless carbon steel. I suggested 01 as I was familiar with it and knew it was available in a variety of sizes. He also found the brass guard to be more of a hinderance than a safety feature. He included a small sketch of a knife with a similar shape to the spear point he'd tried, but without the guard, and a full handle held with the same two loveless bollts and thong tube. The sketch included a dip in the top of the handle towards the butt and a sharp heel thereafter. I eliminated the latter from the design as it would cause irritation in use.

He still wanted the short grind and explained most people who attended his course weren't "knife people" and that it would be easier for them to sharpen if they could lay the whole bevel on the stone. Also he needed the wedge like edge that it produced for specific bushcraft uses and controlled woodworking cuts.........

.......The first knives were made of 5/32 X 1.25 01 steel at a hardness of Rockwell c56/57 with a flat grind that turned out to be very difficult, not to say aggravating to do. Because I don't use jigs or a guide to grind bevels it was extremely difficult to do right. I fitted maple and shaped the handles with my normal palm swell, with flared and domed butt. The wood was dyed to bring out the grain and given an oil finish. The sheaths were wet-moulded from vegetable tanned sholder and finished with an oil/wax molten mix.

The spine was ground flat with sharp corners for use on a firesteel and other scraping tasks..........

.....Early on ray commented that the spear point design would be better with a little belly near the tip for carving out the bottom of bowels etc., Later he suggested that we try a harder temper to improve edge holding, so I had the next batch hardened to RC57/58. I started to make a loop on the sheaths to hold the firesteels when asked.

Ray's television work was starting to take off and demand grew to the point the knives were being offered to other people. About this time I started to get a few knives returned for re grinding as people wern't laying the hole bevel flat on the hone, so were creating a thick secondary bevel, which destroyed the cutting ability. I decided it would be best to supply the knives with a mild hollow grind similar to that produced when I knife is reconditioned on a Tormek or similar grinder. This would allow users much easier sharpening sessions in the early stages when they were't so skilled.
 
The demand kept growing so that I'd exhaused my supplies of Imperial sizes so I went to 4mm X 30mm steel which was slightly narrower. I also started to taper the tangs very slightly to reduce the butt heavy feel of the knives and improve balance.........

.........On Ray's insistence one batch of knives was produced with a finger space gap between the edge and guard, but that was dropped for the next batch as it is an important area for heavy cutting. These are bssically the knives I still produce, although for the last few years I've had them hardened to RC59.

I have made about 7 of these knives with polished antler handles for Ray and his instructors. The last one I made for ray had Brick-Red Fibre liners, in response to the previous one showing excessive movement of the antler after a weeks filiming in the Arctic, followed immediatly by a week in Namibia.

In closing what do you think goes into making a good bushcraft knife?? How different is the Woodlore from your idea of a bushcraft knife??

Ray's concept of a bushcraft knife has proved itself beyone question. There isn't really anything new about the features of this simple tool, but the combination is almost unique
.

Hope y'all enjoyed it.
 
I enjoyed reading about the birth of these designs. Thanks, HD, that's some cool info.

:)
Mark
 
Seems like that maker did a whole lot more injecting of his own theories into the blade, rather than just listening to the needs and wants of his customer. I'd be none to pleased after those first couple stages the knife went through. Especially once I start hearing the words 'hollow grind'. At least all ended well! It's a cool design now.
 
It's always a bit of a struggle to get what you want IMO.

I thought it was interesting he didn't like the D2 and wanted 01. I sort of agree. I love my D2's and 3V, but as long as I have some sort of sharpening device handy I think I like O1 better. I find the D2 and 3V stay SHARP longer overall, but for some reason and maybe I'm off base here but for me they seem to lose their shaving sharpness quicker than the 01, and they seem trickier to get back to shaving sharpness ?:confused:

Also wonder if he was the first one to do the firesteel on the sheath thing?
 
It's always a bit of a struggle to get what you want IMO.

I thought it was interesting he didn't like the D2 and wanted 01. I sort of agree. I love my D2's and 3V, but as long as I have some sort of sharpening device handy I think I like O1 better. I find the D2 and 3V stay SHARP longer overall, but for some reason and maybe I'm off base here but for me they seem to lose their shaving sharpness quicker than the 01, and they seem trickier to get back to shaving sharpness ?:confused:

Also wonder if he was the first one to do the firesteel on the sheath thing?

I hear you on the steel choices. I don't like when it's too hard to sharpen easily. Everything is gonna get dull sooner or later, and it's diminishing returns when it starts getting too hard. Me gusta O1, 1095, etc.

That'd be a cool fact to know, re: who had the first firesteel loop...
 
I can't believe this thread is on as I was only just thinking about the Woodlore knife earlier today and tried searching for info on it's thickness.
According to the article I now know that they started off at 5/32" and went on to become 4mm.
What I did find when searching was that many people considered them to be too thick for a lot of cutting tasks !
 
What I did find when searching was that many people considered them to be too thick for a lot of cutting tasks !

You have to remember to take that feedback in context. You are talking about bushcrafters. I happen to agree with them. I like a knife to cut, not much else. That means I tend to like stuff on the thinner side, and sharp as heck.

Bushcrafters tend to have other tools for different tasks, and the knife is for cutting. There is no concept of a survival knife (whatever that is).

Point being, use the knife thickness you like. Just trying to give you a different view point on the thickness comments.

Great article, by the way HD! I enjoyed the history lesson on that knife.

B
 
I can't believe this thread is on as I was only just thinking about the Woodlore knife earlier today and tried searching for info on it's thickness.
According to the article I now know that they started off at 5/32" and went on to become 4mm.
What I did find when searching was that many people considered them to be too thick for a lot of cutting tasks !

I have several in the 4mm range and they cut fine but they don't slice as well as a 1/8" 3mm model. The Skookum is 3mm. One reason I like it better. Also the extra mm adds weight but I'm not sue what any other advantages would be? Maybe splitting wood? But I've split wood with a 1/8" fine:thumbup:
 
You have to remember to take that feedback in context. You are talking about bushcrafters. I happen to agree with them. I like a knife to cut, not much else. That means I tend to like stuff on the thinner side, and sharp as heck.

Bushcrafters tend to have other tools for different tasks, and the knife is for cutting. There is no concept of a survival knife (whatever that is).

Point being, use the knife thickness you like. Just trying to give you a different view point on the thickness comments.

Great article, by the way HD! I enjoyed the history lesson on that knife.

B



Brian have you made you made a sample of your knife in both thicknesses yet ? If so how do you find the different thickness affects the performance ?
 
Nope, only the 1/8" version. I am getting there, but it is a slow process for me :D

I am afraid it won't be a fair comparison though. I am planning on backing the grind angle off on the 5/32" by 1 to 1.5 degrees (per side). So, thickness won't be the only variable changing.

I will be sure to give tons of details when I get a thicker one done though.
 
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