Bushcraft

silenthunterstudios

silenthunterstudios

Slipjoint Addict
Joined
Feb 2, 2005
Messages
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I got a bushcraft 2nd in a trade recently, and really like the design. The handle feels pretty good, and hopefully I will be able to try it out over the weekend. The handle had already been filled in spots when I got it, and I didn't see anything bad with it. I understand the utility of the sheath, and I am still determining if I like it or not. I think that micarta would have been a great idea for the scales, with a sprint run of some type of stabilized wood, that hopefully wouldn't have been a problem. I hope that Spyderco tries to resurrect this model, and would like to see what Sal and company come up with.
 
Micarta was tested and it shrank. sal already mentioned in another thread that there would a new version coming out. I think he mentioned G10 and S90V steel.
 
RevDevil said:
Micarta was tested and it shrank. sal already mentioned in another thread that there would a new version coming out. I think he mentioned G10 and S90V steel.
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S90V? Wouldn't that present a bit of a problem when sharpening such a wide surface area like a Scandi grind?
 
I'd like to see the BC remain o1 scandi with a full solid tang (no skeleton holes under the slabs) and just use some kind of micarta.

I haven't had a knife with micarta ever shrink or crack.
 
PorcupineMtns66 said:
I'd like to see the BC remain o1 scandi with a full solid tang (no skeleton holes under the slabs) and just use some kind of micarta.

I haven't had a knife with micarta ever shrink or crack.
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Sal stated a while back that they tried micarta but it shrank a little bit as well.

Canis
 
Even the wood being filled with some kind of epoxy, isn't it will going to crack in another area anyway? Any chance to replaced the handle material?
 
U.C.O.K. said:
Even the wood being filled with some kind of epoxy, isn't it will going to crack in another area anyway? Any chance to replaced the handle material?
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There was mentioned that replacing the handle material could cost as much as what the knife material sold for or close to it (cleaning up the epoxy and adding new grips). I could be wrong, but I would think that the cracks in the wood are as cracked as they will get. Unless you go out and really pound the snot out of the hanles with a log. Besides, the wood used is beautiful. :)

If you use acetone on the handles it will remove the rest of the oil, and prepare the surface for sealing. Using Acraglas or some other kind of liquid epoxy (with a syringe) would be best. Before the epoxy sets 100% sand the handles down to allow the dust from the wood to settle into the cracks/epoxy. If done correctly, it will look like nothing ever was wrong with the knife after refinishing.
 
RevDevil said:
There was mentioned that replacing the handle material could cost as much as what the knife material sold for or close to it (cleaning up the epoxy and adding new grips). I could be wrong, but I would think that the cracks in the wood are as cracked as they will get. Unless you go out and really pound the snot out of the hanles with a log. Besides, the wood used is beautiful. :)

If you use acetone on the handles it will remove the rest of the oil, and prepare the surface for sealing. Using Acraglas or some other kind of liquid epoxy (with a syringe) would be best. Before the epoxy sets 100% sand the handles down to allow the dust from the wood to settle into the cracks/epoxy. If done correctly, it will look like nothing ever was wrong with the knife after refinishing.
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I will take your advice for serious. Thanks:)
 
sherlockbonez said:
If it's in H1 and come down in price, I'll be all over it.
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I doubt a Bushcraft knife would be as good as one made from O-1 or A-2, even 1095 for that matter. You want a tough knife in a Bushcrafter, not something where you can easily roll the edge.

Some people with the Rock Salt (H1) have reported some serious edge rolling while cutting material that would not be considered tough enough to roll a steel edge.

I'd much rather have an O-1 blade anyday, so long as you take proper precautions rust should not be a significant problem (unless you are in a jungle for more than 4-5 days straight during monsoons).

U.C.O.K. said:
I will take your advice for serious. Thanks:)
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Glad to help and share info. :thumbup: If you are interested in the Acraglas stuff, I just ordered another smaller bottle with the hardener agent. I am going to scale a Swick 2 and a Mule over the next couple weeks (it's a relaxer activity so I am not rushing at all). I'll make some notes and post some pics as I go.
Give it a try though on the Bushcraft if you have some cracking, the people I spoke with were very confident it would do an excellent job. ;)
 
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RevDevil said:
I doubt a Bushcraft knife would be as good as one made from O-1 or A-2, even 1095 for that matter. You want a tough knife in a Bushcrafter, not something where you can easily roll the edge.

Some people with the Rock Salt (H1) have reported some serious edge rolling while cutting material that would not be considered tough enough to roll a steel edge.
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The only such incident I've seen mentioned was a guy chopping some gnarly tough wood with his; and the RS is a very thin blade for that sort of thing (And batoning. It does the job, but a more wedge shaped blade works better.). A thicker knife probably wouldn't have the same issue. H1 is extremely tough. I love the more typical carbon steels, but H1 with the right blade geometry is a fine choice for a heavy duty bushcrafty design.
 
randomlooker said:
The only such incident I've seen mentioned was a guy chopping some gnarly tough wood with his; and the RS is a very thin blade for that sort of thing (And batoning. It does the job, but a more wedge shaped blade works better.). A thicker knife probably wouldn't have the same issue. H1 is extremely tough. I love the more typical carbon steels, but H1 with the right blade geometry is a fine choice for a heavy duty bushcrafty design.
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You're right on a few points, but why would you want H-1 on a Bushcraft knife? Like aforementioned 1095,O-1 and A-2, they are great for hard use and is exactly fit for the task. I think a bushcraft knife with a bushcrafting steel would be more suitable for bushcrafting
 
xtestifyx said:
You're right on a few points, but why would you want H-1 on a Bushcraft knife? Like aforementioned 1095,O-1 and A-2, they are great for hard use and is exactly fit for the task. I think a bushcraft knife with a bushcrafting steel would be more suitable for bushcrafting
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Why would you want O1 over A2? Or 52100 over O1? Or A2 over O1? Or H1? Or Infi? Or any other tough steel? They all work perfectly well. Taste varies.

H1 specifically: Pros: Very tough, sharpens to a great edge easily. Cons: Edge holding isn't as good as, say, A-2, but it gets better with use, and isn't exactly poor to start with. Relative: Will not rust, or take a patina.
 
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There is a reason Sal decided to use O1, the people that collaborated on the knife design (highly skilled bushcraft practitioners) felt it was the best material to use on a traditional knife.

I know H1 is a work hardened steel, corrosion resistance is great, and takes a great edge... but in my eyes, you better toughen the cutting edge up long before you leave for the boonies. The last thing you need in a bad situation is a knife with a curled edge. I think a lot of people would rather have a knife that cuts extremely well and holds that edge over a shiny, gleaming rolled edge. :rolleyes:

H1 has it's perks, like other steels - but I think there are far better choices that have been proven time and time again. You wouldn't take a CPM-M4 knife diving in salt water for extended periods of time would you? I mean it holds an edge better than H1 ever could. Different tools for different tasks, no underwater bushcrafting for me...
 
RevDevil said:
I know H1 is a work hardened steel, corrosion resistance is great, and takes a great edge... but in my eyes, you better toughen the cutting edge up long before you leave for the boonies. The last thing you need in a bad situation is a knife with a curled edge. I think a lot of people would rather have a knife that cuts extremely well and holds that edge over a shiny, gleaming rolled edge. :rolleyes:
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Did you see that picture of that one single Bushcraft that snapped in half when somebody was trying to baton with it? O1 must suck and be a poor choice if that can happen!

Did you see that picture of that one single RS with a rolled edge? H1 must suck and be a poor choice if that can happen.

Once again: H1 will make for a great bushcraft style blade. So will O1. So will lots of other steels. Please don't extrapolate too far from single examples.
 
randomlooker said:
Did you see that picture of that one single Bushcraft that snapped in half when somebody was trying to baton with it? O1 must suck and be a poor choice if that can happen!

Did you see that picture of that one single RS with a rolled edge? H1 must suck and be a poor choice if that can happen.

Once again: H1 will make for a great bushcraft style blade. So will O1. So will lots of other steels. Please don't extrapolate too far from single examples.
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You are welcome to your opinion, as am I. There is no extrapolation, don't be so over-analytical. I know I am not a metallurgist and I also doubt you are. the points are made were extracted from talking points made by folks in the forums over at BritishBlades and included feedback from Sal himself. My apologies if you strongly disapprove, but such is life.
 
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