Bushfinger conversion from Scandi to high convex

Have you tried a micro bevel? I have never had an issue with scandis, but I often hear others adding a micro bevel to solve that.
 
you probable right. I am thinking of trading it so I will leave it as close to new as possible. thanks for the input.
 
I'm sorry I missed this. If there is something wrong with this knife, please just notify me and let me fix it.
 
I missed the original post as well. I picked up a Scandi Terrasaur and the edge chipped on the first use. I just ran it over the fine stone on an arkansas tri stone setup I bought and it came out fine. I had emailed Andy to ask him if it could be converted to high Convex and he advised against it due to the stell being hardened.
 
I think changing it to convex is a bad idea, and the knife is at risk the whole time I attempt the grind. Then, if it goes wrong, I'm out a knife or you are. Who is out the knife in the scenario? Plus, the edge is still the edge. If it was bad, it still is. You can strop it higher for a convex and strengthen it a bit. You can do it for a Scandi too. But why not find out if the knife has an issue before trading it. Have you sharpened out the chip? IMO, Scandi's are prone to this type of edge damage. Every Helle I've ever owned chipped if I hit a knot from time to time. But if there is an issue with a knife, please let me know so we can decide if it is a real problem, or if it just needs some work at the edge.
 
Fiddleback said:
I think changing it to convex is a bad idea, and the knife is at risk the whole time I attempt the grind. Then, if it goes wrong, I'm out a knife or you are. Who is out the knife in the scenario? Plus, the edge is still the edge. If it was bad, it still is. You can strop it higher for a convex and strengthen it a bit. You can do it for a Scandi too. But why not find out if the knife has an issue before trading it. Have you sharpened out the chip? IMO, Scandi's are prone to this type of edge damage. Every Helle I've ever owned chipped if I hit a knot from time to time. But if there is an issue with a knife, please let me know so we can decide if it is a real problem, or if it just needs some work at the edge.
Click to expand...

My issues are all good. Like I said I just took the chips/burrs out when the stone then I gave the knife to my brother...He hasn't said anything about it. The damage I enflicted on the knife was operator error lol
 
I think it is just a scandi characteristic. there are no chips in the blade and when it has chipped I was able to sharpen them out easily. It is more phycological. being such a high end blade and so beautiful at that, I just tend to not thump on it and I do like to thump on my blades.
 
Storm -

These blades hold their value so well - just pass it on in the marketplace - and buy another.

However - My Scandi Arete gets a pounding - and I never have an issue.

TF
 
These blades hold their value so well - just pass it on in the marketplace - and buy another.

However - My Scandi Arete gets a pounding - and I never have an issue.
Good advice Talfuchre,
Thanks,
I have already found a home for the Scandie in exchange for another of Andy's work in a full Convex edge. I am going to try very hard to overcome my concerns with pounding on such a high end beautiful blade. But you know, all of the blades I have come to respect and love the most over the years were the ones that got the most use and saw the most abuse. These where mostly middle of the road production knives with a salting of some higher end production knives. I guess when I pound on them it does not bother me because I know a machine made them. When I work with Andy's knife I see him personaly slaving away with his hands pooring his love for the craft and his considerable experiance into making sure everything is perfect and I just can't bring myself to do it.
It's not the money, at all. I know that Andy puts everything he has into these knives and I really respect that.
However, today is a new day and this new blade will get the full treatment just like all the rest and I am sure that I will come to love and respect it even more because of the skill that went into it and the performance of the tool in use.

I hope I did not come off like I was dumping on Andy in anyway. That would be the last thing I would want. I edited my original post becasue, after reading it I thought it might be misinturpreted that way.
 
Go out and use whatever Fiddleback you have without reservation or regret. Andy has a sticky at the top of this forum--Fiddleback User Pics. He does not have one called Fiddleback Knives on Display Pics or Unused Fiddleback Knife Pics. I think it is pretty obvious that he likes to see his knives getting used and reviewed, so have at it! You'll find its good for your soul! :thumbup:
 
Every time you strop a knife, you're convexing the edge (a little).
I wouldn't convex the edge using a grinder or power tools but doing it by hand shouldn't be an issue.
A soft(ish) mouse mat and some sandpapers should do the job, no problem. It's not really any different to putting on a micro bevel.
In fact it is putting on a microbevel, but removing the shoulders.
 
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