Busse Basic #7

Joined
Oct 12, 1999
Messages
631
Hello all! I've got a Busse Basic #7 coming to me any day now (hurry up Fred!) and I'd like to get some opinions on sharpening the convex grind. I've been told that the proper way is with a slack grinder (don't have one, not an option). I've also been told that a lot of people regrind the edge to a more conventional grind. Also, I wonder if a Spyderco 204 would be any good? Please, flood this post with opinions!!!! Thanks in advance.

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"Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n"
John Milton
There are only two types of people; those who understand this, and those who think they do.
 
Mine is on the way too, and me without a slack grinder (don't really know what it is anyway!
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) Please feel free to write long, drawn out responses to this post, as I can't read enough about any knife that is on it's way to me!!
 
The Spyderco 204 is great for everything im sure everyone would agree on this one

It would be your best bet for basically anything......

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My Email is- Hero47@juno.com -

 
Your Basic #7 should come with instructions on how to properly sharpen. I am yet to resharpen mine, but it sounds like it will be quite easy. If you just need to restore the edge, the instructions indicate that you simply need to strope the flat edge on a diamond or ceramic stick. You will only need to worry with the convex edge if you have a more major problem with the edge. It will not get dull for a while, it does hold an edge as advertised.

Enjoy the knife, I surely have enjoyed mine.
 
Friends...have no fear...it's not a difficult technique.

When you receive your knives, you'll notice (as you look down the edge handle to point) that the right side is rolled or convex...and that the left side is short and flat.

Simply strop the flat or left side UP your ceramic stick from the bottom, at the base of your sharpener, from handle to point only a few times. This will form a small wire on the right side. Then, take a piece of taught leather or use your strop and use the same motion on the convex side, stropping handle to point. Your knife will be as good as new.

Your knife will almost never have to touch a ceramic stick if you strop it before it loses its shaving sharp edge.

Andy
 
I just got my Basic #7!!!! What A knife! Feels like it's a part of you and sharp is not a sufficient adjective to describe it. I can't wait to start playing around with it. Thanks for all the advice on sharpening, and after looking at a Busse in the flesh I'm not half as concerned about sharpening as I was before. Again, what a knife!

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"Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n"
John Milton
There are only two types of people; those who understand this, and those who think they do.
 
John-I'm jealous!!! Mine won't get here until Thursday if I'm lucky! I'm glad to hear that you're happy with it in the flesh. Give us a review as soon as you can.
Paul

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The "perfect knife" is the one on it's way to me in the mail!

 
Alright Paul, here's the only review I can give right now (since I haven't had a chance to really play with it):

The first thing is the sheath. It's molded kydex with a portion of the very bottom seam (where the tip of the knife is) open to allow drainage. Two lash ponits, one of them used for the leg strap. Nothing special there, although the nylon webbing is very tightly woven and you just know it'll hold up. The belt loop is of a decent size with an interesting feature; the belt loop is connected to the rest of the sheath with a release clip (like the ones on backpacks). You could strap the knife to your gear, but remove it (sheath and all) in a snap without having to take off your belt. Nice idea. There is a friction fit holding the blade in place plus a suplemental strap. The friction fit is good enough that you can shake the knife upside-down and it won't come out of the case. With the strap engaged I would have complete confidence. Also, the strap is fairly long meaning that it is very easy to grab hold of, even with winter gloves on (it's cold up here in Canada, eh?). The knife has a talon in it just past the gaurd, but no mathcing one in the sheath. Not a real concern for me though-I don't plan on any HALO drops
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As soon as you wrap your hand around the handle, you know this is going to be good. When you draw the knife your hand automatically finds the right grip. There's no fiddling or adjusting. The handle has sort of a rubbery feel; hard, yet soft to the touch. Very comfortable, although I haven't used it for any length of time. The blade has a nice weight to it, slightly forward but not what I'd call top heavy. You feel the weight and you just know this knife is going to chop well (although I still believe a saw is better). The handle is at an angle to the blade (much like the MT SOCOM) so that in a natural grip the blade is parallel to the ground, very ergonomic. To say the blade is sharp in an understatement. When I first took it out of the box I lightly drew it across my left arm. You could actully HEAR the hairs popping off, each with a little "ting". It's sharp. That leads me to the convex edge.

At first I was a little worried about sharpening such an edge (I'd never seen one before). Now that I've got the knife I'm not so worried. Unless you feel the edge (going from spine to edge) it's difficult to tell which side is which (convex or flat). The sharpening instructions basically say that you don't need to worry about the convex edge unless you severly deform it, the flat is the only thing you sharpen (albeit the method is a litttle different form the norm). That being said the only thing I'd like to know is what angle the grind on the flat side is. I use a Spyderco 204 for almost all my sharpening and I'm curious to know if I should use the 40 or 30 degree setting.

Well, that's about all I can give right now. I'm getting a CS Bush Ranger later this month/next year and I'll be curious to see how it compares to the Busse. No disrespect indented, but I think I know who'll win
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"Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n"
John Milton
There are only two types of people; those who understand this, and those who think they do.


[This message has been edited by Johan (edited 21 December 1999).]
 
John-thanks for the great review! I just received word that mine should be here Wednesday or Thursday (c'monnnnn Wednesday!), so I'm REALLY looking forward to it after reading the high initial marks you've given it. Question: are you satisfied that you chose the best blade length? I struggled between the #5, #7, and #9 before finally choosing the #7 as a kind of "middle ground". I plan on using mine mostly to lash to my pack for camping and hiking in the Blue Ridge mountains, where it will be called on for everything from whacking thorns which block the trail to hacking deadwood for the fire. After reading Mike Turber's fantastic (fanatical?) review of the #7, I have no worries about it' durability.
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Oh well, now I just have to get through two more days (maybe one!) before I can feel that famous heft for myself!
Thanks again for indulging me,
Paul

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The "perfect knife" is the one on it's way to me in the mail!

 
Paul I figured that 5" would be too small (I have a CRKT SealTac that's about 5") and 9" would be just too long for general use. I don't hunt, but I do like to hike and camp (although I haven't done the latter in a very long time) and that's what I had in mind with the Busse #7. Besides, it's always been my opinion that my little SAK will saw through a 2x4 faster than you can chop through it with a knife (there are of course exceptions) so I dind't feel I was losing anything with the #7. One change in my initial review (I'm going back to edit it now): The secondary belt loop (the one with the clip) is actually the primary loop. It situates the knife at just the right height in relation to your arm when you reach for the handle. The clip allows you to remove the sheath from your gear (or you) without taking off your belt. That's neat! BTW, it's Johan, not John
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"Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n"
John Milton
There are only two types of people; those who understand this, and those who think they do.
 
Johan, excuse me for asking this ignorant question but what is teh Talon you refered as being on the sheath.

thanks and take care
collin
 
Rudy a "talon" is what Busse calls a lashing point. There are two slots on the sheath and a fixed ring just ahead of the guard. And it's not an ignorant question, I'd never heard of "talons" until yesterday when I read the instructions that came with the knife
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"Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n"
John Milton
There are only two types of people; those who understand this, and those who think they do.
 
Johan and all...

The "Talon" does have a lashing function, but it is far more than that.

The "Talon" design, particularly on Steel Hearts I and II, as well as the Battle Mistress is primarily for a positive grip on the knife while chopping...if you notice, it is graded and blended with the curves of the bottom of the handle...when using either the SH or BM, the Talon prevents the knife leaving your hand...just swing either around in the air and you'll see...the back Talon engages the pinky finger and almost makes it impossible to lose the knife...AND the design is patented because it really does work. The holes were also an attachment point for an experimental D-Guard design many years ago, which has now been relegated for a future project.


Andy
 
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