busse basic edge deformation

S

sevenedges

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I own a basic five and have done extensive slicing, cutting, and chopping with it. As a chopper you would be hard pressed to find a five inch blade that can keep up. However the last couple of times I have used it (yesterday and today at work) I have noticed some serious edge deformation. It seems to be depressing the steel and maybe even chipping it. you can visually see the damage and it fails the fingernail test miserably.
Looking at the edge in light you can see shiny marks all the way down the blade. O.K. I know your wondering what I chopped with it? Yesterday it was about 120 palmetto stalks and a few branches about 1-2" in diameter. When I got home I looked at the edge and was astounded at how bad it was. I thought well maybe when I was chopping the low lying palmetto stalks I was accidentaly hiting the ground and striking rocks or something. Today however I know for a fact that I wasn't I was only chopping branches of cypress and soft bushes. When I got home once again the edge was deformed. I will sharpen the knife and test it out on a pine 2x4 tomorrow and see how it holds up. Any one know whats up? I don't know if it is the heat treat or not but I don't think it should be doing this. I absolutely love the knife other than this and hope it is an isolated incident though I think Kodiak has had simular problems with m-infi if i'm not mistaken. Take care. Jeff
 
I had some similar problems with my #7 Basic when I first got it. It seemed to both indent easier that I figured it should and chipped a couple of times under moderate stress. After grinding a new edge on the blade it held up fine. I didn't change the profile just moved the bevel back far enough to go past the weakened metal.

What I would recommend is that if at all possible you take another blade with you when you go hacking at the 2x4 so that you have a reference point.

-Cliff
 
Isn't this the same problem that created the 122 long string about the Mad Dog results...
 
No it is not the same problem at all. The discussion in the large threads is centered mainly on Kevin McClung's statements not on the results themselves.

In comparison, awhile ago on the hoodlums board, someone saw significant indendation on a Battle Mistress after chopping through an Elk bone. Jerry Busse stopped in and simply said that should not have happened and the warrenty covered it. Problem solved, discussion ended.

Everyone can release a bad blade, I have even returned a HI khukuri to Bill. This is not important. It is how the complaints are handled that matters.

-Cliff
 
Cliff your right. I re-ground the edge yesterday totaly taking off the convex edge with a DMT coarse stone. Since then I have had good results with the edge. It is holding up much better. I think there is a reason why you are supposed to use a ceramic stick. It seems to me when I use a stone if I don't keep the edge angle exact on every stroke you can develop a drop off close to the cutting edge that you can feel with your fingernail. It seems to only take one stroke to do this. I beleive that is the reason for the weakend edge (it is really thin) just my opinion though I could be incorrect. Jeff
 
Cliff's experience is genuine. On occasion with some of the models, the asymmetrical edge can be a little thin and become misaligned with heavy use, but there is no need to be concerned. A touch up with a stick and leather remedies the problem.



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Hi Salamander -- could you post a follow-up on the new edge when you get a chance? My understanding is that the convex edge is intended to strengthen the edge -- at least in principle. So could you let us know if your new edge holds up better, worse, or the same? Should be very useful and instructive information for Busse owners...

Glen
 
You bet storyville. I just got done hacking the 2x4 in half along with some branches. The edge is about 95% better if not more, than before. The blade was still almost hair popping sharp when I got done. Two licks on each side with the DMT fine and its absolutely hair popping sharp! I am very happy with the results however as Andy says you may just need to use a stick and strop every once in a while. take care, Jeff
 
A convex grind, partial or full will strengthen a bevel, there is simply more metal left than on a flat grind. However never assume you are getting 100% from the factory in regards to edge performance. And when you do sharpen the blade, if you get bad results try it a few more times paying care to the sharpening process. A wire edge or similar can give you a very bad impression.

Stropping as often praised by Cougar is a very good way to keep an edge sharp and strong avoiding wire edges and such. I do this with my BM and it will go along time before you want to take it to a hone.

-Cliff

[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 02-01-2000).]
 
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