Busse Coating Questions

Havoc550

Havoc550

Joined
Oct 9, 2011
Messages
758
What exactly is the coating Busse and Kin come with made of? If its not something available to me, what would be an alternative for touching a blade up?

I have a black CGFBM I recently acquired that had a few chips touched up. Not sure what they used, but it looks too be pretty close to what the adjacent coating consist of.

Thanks!!
 
I am guessing it is just powder coat.Kind of hard to do yourself unless you have all the equipment to do it.
 
different colors seem to use different materials, eg, the black is a really high-textured crinkly coat, a lot of others are smoother, and that old tan one they discontinued seemed to get worn out very easily

if it were me I'd either use a powder coat--very tough and durable--or if you don't have the means to do it or get it done, maybe something like Cerakote or KG Coatings. I've wanted to try the latter in a copper finish myself but the pretreatment requires bead blasting, and I don't have that ability nor the patience to send it out to get it done

The toughest thing you'll have to do at the least is cure the coat on hard by baking it in an oven, and the temperature will be way too low to cause any harm to the heat treatment
 
Here's some I've been touching up lately.
4e0ead84.jpg
 
Sorry to the OP, I cannot help with your question but I did want to add that the best coating is no coating

Satin all the way baby :D
 
Krylon works just fine for knives that get used regularly then stored awhile.

Jerry used to tell me that the best way to keep the edge free of rust was to Use the knife.

Same as Bulldozers using them keeps them shiny.

But mostly, unless you are in a corrosive environment why bother? are you having Rust issues?

I kept my first SHSH and Badger in a tool box in the back of my truck for two years while putting 200,000 miles on the truck driving it all around the country including months up and down the east coast, Rust was never an issue for me, but the bare INFI on the edge did turn kind of dark gray.
 
papathud said:
Krylon works just fine for knives that get used regularly then stored awhile.

Jerry used to tell me that the best way to keep the edge free of rust was to Use the knife.

Same as Bulldozers using them keeps them shiny.

But mostly, unless you are in a corrosive environment why bother? are you having Rust issues?

I kept my first SHSH and Badger in a tool box in the back of my truck for two years while putting 200,000 miles on the truck driving it all around the country including months up and down the east coast, Rust was never an issue for me, but the bare INFI on the edge did turn kind of dark gray.
Click to expand...

Maybe the OP is slightly obsessive-compulsive like me and just wants to try to keep the blade in perfect condition for as long as possible :p
On the other hand, I think it would be so cool if some of us would mod our knives with different finishes, too. I'm surprised Krylon works. Have you tried it out, cured in an oven and all? With something so simple and readily available, I might try it out. Not that fancy up-armored stuff, but just some uncommon colors on the blade, like copper or brass.
 
uyotg said:
Maybe the OP is slightly obsessive-compulsive like me and just wants to try to keep the blade in perfect condition for as long as possible :p
On the other hand, I think it would be so cool if some of us would mod our knives with different finishes, too. I'm surprised Krylon works. Have you tried it out, cured in an oven and all? With something so simple and readily available, I might try it out. Not that fancy up-armored stuff, but just some uncommon colors on the blade, like copper or brass.
Click to expand...

You are 100% correct!! I would like to fix small imperfections on knives that don't get used and be able to repair/recoat those that do. Plus, I made two knives of my own and was curious as to what Busse used. I think its a nice option to just coat a blade than spend too much time creating the perfect satin finish.

I purchased some black Rust-Oleum today to see what that will look like. Krylon was the other choice I wanted to try. As far as Busse goes, I mean, there has to be another name for the coating other than just "powder coat", right? I would assume the chemicals used would be available from several companies each with its own pros and cons. If its a "secret sauce" deal, that's fine, I would just like to know for sure.
 
The knife is a tool, in the use of that tool it will get dings, scuffs and chips in the paint, the more you use it the more it will happen and every scuff, ding, notch in the edge will have a story.

Get out there and mess it up a little, get some stories, then you have memories that you can choose to keep or to share.

Those stories are what personalizes each knife we own from what ever maker. Remember the time you just had to make a fire? or the first time you gutted a pig, or any other big game? the first time you had your son clean his first rabbit or fish?

And if the time come that you sell or give away that knife, those stories will mean some thing to the next person in line, better a knife with a history than a sterile fresh from the shop refinish.

While Opinions do vary, this one is mine.
 
If messed up coating gets to be a big deal or you just want the knife to look new again you can send it in to the shop and we can recoat them for you.

Garth
 
Havoc550 said:
I mean, there has to be another name for the coating other than just "powder coat", right? I would assume the chemicals used would be available from several companies each with its own pros and cons. If its a "secret sauce" deal, that's fine, I would just like to know for sure.
Click to expand...


Powder Coating is a generic term for a particular kind of industrial coating. The paint is a finely ground dry powder, consisting of an intimate mixture of resins, crosslinkers, cure catalysts, flow additives, and pigments. The application process, which cannot be duplicated at home, uses low pressure air to "liquefy" the powder paint, convey it through the lines to the spray gun, where it receives an electrostatic charge as it exits the sprayhead. The ware to be coated is grounded, and being surrounded by a cloud of charged particles, gets coated with the powder. The ware is then conveyed into a cure oven, and baked 15 - 20 minutes @ 350 - 400F. The powder melts and then cures into an infusible film.
 
resinguy said:
Powder Coating is a generic term for a particular kind of industrial coating. The paint is a finely ground dry powder, consisting of an intimate mixture of resins, crosslinkers, cure catalysts, flow additives, and pigments. The application process, which cannot be duplicated at home, uses low pressure air to "liquefy" the powder paint, convey it through the lines to the spray gun, where it receives an electrostatic charge as it exits the sprayhead. The ware to be coated is grounded, and being surrounded by a cloud of charged particles, gets coated with the powder. The ware is then conveyed into a cure oven, and
baked 15 - 20 minutes @ 350 - 400F. The powder melts and then cures into an infusible film.
Click to expand...

Yeah. What he said.

Garth
 
Hahahaha, okay, I will shut up now!! Thanks for the description resinguy, that was EXACTLY what I was looking for. I now know that I can just experiment with a few chemicals for simple touch-ups and that coating my own blade is out of the question at least with a factory powder-coat.

Thanks Garth, Pokey had given me the info awhile back on have blades re-coated, re-handled, etc. I just wanted to see what options where out there for the do-it-yourself thing.
 
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