Busse Combat Is Proud To Introduce The War Talon And The Boarracuda Fighter!!! . . . Coming 4-2-2025 At 8:00 PM Eastern

Jerry Busse

Jerry Busse

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Busse Combat Is Proud To Introduce The War Talon And The Boarracuda Fighter!!! . . . Coming 4-2-2025 At 8:00 PM Eastern To The Busse Combat Website.

Both models have every sharp corner expertly rounded for comfort and speed.

The first up is the War Talon karambit.

The War Talon is balanced for lightning-fast strikes and cuts.
Our other design, the Boarracuda Fighter, features an Urgent Fury style blade for more diversity in application.

After this first run is finished and we have actual pics of these two models, they will be put up on our website at the regular price.

However, if you use your imagination and can envision what the finished product is going to look like, you can order from the line drawing alone and be rewarded with a very generous Good Faith Discount" (GFD).

These blades, when finished, should be fairly close to the drawing since this is the first step in the production of these killer cool fighters!

So, what is the GFD, and how much will I save???

If you get in on this first run and score one or both of these models with the Good Faith Discount, your prices will be as follows!!!

War Talon
Pricing:

Coated Base Price: $367.00
GFD Coated Base Price: $327.00 . . . (You save $40.00)

Stonewashed Base Price: $387.00
GFD Stonewashed Base Price: $337.00 . . . (You save $50.00)

Comp Finish Base Price: $417.00
GFD Comp Finished Base Price: $357.00 . . . (You save $60.00)

War Talon
Specs:
Overall Length: Approx. 10"
Blade Length: Approx. 4 5/8"
Blade Thickness: .210"
Steel: INFI
Hardness: 58-60 Rc
Handles: Canvas Micarta or G-10
Bevel: Flat Saber
Blade Finish: Coated, Stonewashed, or Competition Finish*
*Stonewashed and Competition Finish may show light machining marks.

War Talon
Handle Options:
Black Canvas
Tan Canvas
Green Canvas
Black G10 +$35.00
Tan and Black G10 +$50.00
Red and Black G10 +$50.00
Green and Black G10 +$50.00
Blue and Black G10 +$50.00
Orange and Black G10 +$50.00
Nuclear Option* +$65.00


Boarracuda Fighter
Pricing:

Coated Base Price: $397.00
GFD Coated Base Price: $357.00 . . . (You save $40.00)

Stonewashed Base Price: $417.00
GFD Stonewashed Base Price: $367.00 . . . (You save $50.00)

Comp Finish Base Price: $447.00
GFD Comp Finished Base Price: $387.00 . . . (You save $60.00)

Boarracuda Fighter
Specs:
Overall Length: Approx. 11 5/8"
Blade Length: Approx. 6 1/4"
Blade Thickness: .210"
Steel: INFI
Hardness: 58-60 Rc
Handles: Canvas Micarta or G-10
Bevel: High Flat Saber
Blade Finish: Coated, Stonewashed, or Competition Finish*
*Stonewashed and Competition Finish may show light machining marks.

Boarracuda Fighter
Handle Options:
Black Canvas
Tan Canvas
Green Canvas
Black G10 +$35.00
Tan and Black G10 +$50.00
Red and Black G10 +$50.00
Green and Black G10 +$50.00
Blue and Black G10 +$50.00
Orange and Black G10 +$50.00
Nuclear Option* +$65.00

*NUCLEAR Handle Option:*
The Nuclear Handle Option is not for the faint of heart but rather for those bacon-loving HOGs who do not fear the unknown!!!
The Nuclear option is a grab bag of sorts. You will receive a randomly selected handle from a pile of Nuclear Castoffs.
This pile of handles has many hand-laminated G10 and Micarta slabs as well as some solid colors not normally offered!
This option does not allow you to choose your handle!!!! . . . You do not get A CHOICE! You will get whatever you get by the blind luck of the draw! It is a veritable PORKpourri of oddball handle materials! The Nuclear Option Handles are available on Coated, Stonewashed, and comp-finished blades.

Nobody likes whine with their bacon, so we have implemented a "No returns/No whine clause"!
There are no returns on the Nuclear Option. . . .

So, you can either play it safe or you can go where only the bravest of HOGs have gone before. . . . to PORKpourri and beyond!!!!

War Talon
War Talon White.jpg


Boarracuda Fighter
Boarracuda Fighter.jpg


Both Kerambit White.jpg

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Fantastic! Id like to mention these would look great in eclipse
Finally found a great EDC replacement for my Fox karambit ... usually a gardening tool but now I can add crowbar to the list of uses
;)
 
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Very cool offerings.

Adding a very slight Persian style upsweep to the Boarracuda Fighter in final design would be perfect
 
gottaknife said:
Speaking of EDC, anyone got any tips on sharpening talons?
Click to expand...
Do you mean because it’s an inside curve? This can be an area where something like the Spyderco Sharpmaker shines as a maintenance tool, though likely the factory geometry would need to be specifically modified so that the 15 degree/20 degree bevel/microbevel setup would work, which if you aren’t comfortable doing could be done for you by me or some other trustworthy hog (short list 🤔). If you don’t want that particular set of angles, the principle of the narrow stone (like a sharpmaker) still works, you just have to hold the angle by hand, and let me tell you, buying yourself some cheap 2x or even 3x maginification reading glasses is a total game changer, because you get a glorious high-def image of the stone encountering the edge, making it much easier to keep things consistent. Don’t push hard, pushing hard makes your angle vary—just keep light pressure and pull across the sharpener steadily Keep in mind, even wider stones will work, but will be prone to catching an inside-curved edge if there is any damage to the edges of the stone. You can always double-stick-tape various grits of sandpaper to wooden dowels, you want the wet/dry stuff, probably 60/180/320/600 grit for general maintenance. I mean, you can go up to thousands in the grit department if you want, but that’s more fetishism than reality…take it from a fetishist who’s sharpened a few thousand knives. 😁. Aerosol brake cleaner does a WONDERFUL job of cleaning out sandpaper after it’s become loaded with steel. I used to throw away paper that had a lot of life left in it.
 
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If anyone wants to get an extra War Talon and trade for sheath work, we here at Buy Brown Ind. have been known to trade kydex for steel :)

Not sure if one will do ............but it is all I can afford right now.
 
t1mpani said:
Do you mean because it’s an inside curve? This can be an area where something like the Spyderco Sharpmaker shines as a maintenance tool, though likely the factory geometry would need to be specifically modified so that the 15 degree/20 degree bevel/microbevel setup would work, which if you aren’t comfortable doing could be done for you by me or some other trustworthy hog (short list 🤔). If you don’t want that particular set of angles, the principle of the narrow stone (like a sharpmaker) still works, you just have to hold the angle by hand, and let me tell you, buying yourself some cheap 2x or even 3x maginification reading glasses is a total game changer, because you get a glorious high-def image of the stone encountering the edge, making it much easier to keep things consistent. Don’t push hard, pushing hard makes your angle vary—just keep light pressure and pull across the sharpener steadily Keep in mind, even wider stones will work, but will be prone to catching an inside-carved edge if there is any damage to the edges of the stone. You can always double-stick-tape various grits of sandpaper to wooden dowels, you want the wet/dry stuff, probably 60/180/320/600 grit for general maintenance. I mean, you can go up to thousands in the grit department if you want, but that’s more fetishism than reality…take it from a fetishist who’s sharpened a few thousand knives. 😁. Aerosol brake cleaner does a WONDERFUL job of cleaning out sandpaper after it’s become loaded with steel. I used to throw away paper that had a lot of life left in it.
Click to expand...
Thanks Warren!
Old School Hogs are always an excellent source of info
 
MattinLA said:
Thanks Warren!
Old School Hogs are always an excellent source of info
Click to expand...
Sure! Oh, and it might be obvious but if you’re doing the sandpaper thing you’re going to be pulling the edge across vs pushing into it like a stone. Pushing works if you’re very good at holding angles but tip too far and you’ll slice through your paper. You can also do thick (compared to most tape) foam automotive tape if you want to go for the convex edge, but remember to focus your pressure on the edge shoulder vs the cutting edge itself, so you don’t make things too steep. When you set the edge shoulder on the paper, there should be a thin shadow between the edge and the paper which then disappears when you push down into it. Since the paper is going to be dark gray, this is where excellent light and some magnifying glasses make things so much easier.
 
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