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Busse game warden sharpening again
- Thread starter Mikeynyc
- Start date
If you can look directly at the edge under light and see reflected light, it is not fully apexed. With this last edge it was possibly a burr you had going which is why it didn't hold up.
Do this:
1. Cut the edge off very lightly directly into a stone and check the edge to make sure it is reflecting light along it's entire length.
2. Sharpen only one side until you raise a burr completely along the length.
3. Cut the edge off again very lightly and make sure it is reflecting light along it's entire length.
4. Sharpen the other side until you raise a burr along the entire length.
5. Cut the edge off one more time.
6. Sharpen both sides until you can no longer see any reflected light along the edge apex. At this point is should easily slice newsprint with the grain. If it does not, it is still reflecting some light and is not fully apexed
7. At this point refine (if you want) with finer grits by using edge leeading strokes only...make sure to alternate sides with each stroke and to do both heel to tip and tip to heel strokes
8. Do a very light pass or two on each side at double the angle you were sharpening at in order to remove any burr.
8. Give a few more light passes each side at the original angle to backbevel what ever microbevel was formed during burr removal.
Do this:
1. Cut the edge off very lightly directly into a stone and check the edge to make sure it is reflecting light along it's entire length.
2. Sharpen only one side until you raise a burr completely along the length.
3. Cut the edge off again very lightly and make sure it is reflecting light along it's entire length.
4. Sharpen the other side until you raise a burr along the entire length.
5. Cut the edge off one more time.
6. Sharpen both sides until you can no longer see any reflected light along the edge apex. At this point is should easily slice newsprint with the grain. If it does not, it is still reflecting some light and is not fully apexed
7. At this point refine (if you want) with finer grits by using edge leeading strokes only...make sure to alternate sides with each stroke and to do both heel to tip and tip to heel strokes
8. Do a very light pass or two on each side at double the angle you were sharpening at in order to remove any burr.
8. Give a few more light passes each side at the original angle to backbevel what ever microbevel was formed during burr removal.
Garth Reckner
Moderator
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2004
- Messages
- 9,129
You might try the sharpie trick. Take a sharpie marker and blacken the edge of your knife prior to sharpening. Then as you are sharpening the marker will come off and show you exactly where you are hitting with your stone or strop. It is very easy to think you are getting all the way to the edge and you can still be missing the very cutting edge of the blade. Just a tip. Hopefully it helps.
Garth
Garth
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2005
- Messages
- 2,984
Your pics do show reflected light on the apex. The first time you "profile" an edge to what angle you want can be a real eye opener on how much time it takes to do. Particularly if you are using a hand technique on stones. The "pen marker" tip enables you to avoid re-profiling an edge angle to a new angle and zone in on the established angle for faster sharpening if that helps ... or if you definitely want to go for a different angle ... it lets you know when you reach the apex.
You just need to carry on what you were doing for a bit longer ... I have spent "hours" having to do this in the past. Sometimes 4 to 5 hours when I didn't have a range of aggressive stones to remove metal with.
You just need to carry on what you were doing for a bit longer ... I have spent "hours" having to do this in the past. Sometimes 4 to 5 hours when I didn't have a range of aggressive stones to remove metal with.
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2011
- Messages
- 749
I second this the maker makes it much easier to see how far you've gotten.
What a difference that marker makes , I was way off on my angle, this is the sharpest I have ever got a knife, I did maybe 5 minutes worth of strokes on a 600 grit ex lap, then stroped about 20 strokes each on 600/1200/2000 wet and dry and finished on a polish strop, I used to feel like I was polishing a butter knife , it isn't hair popping, but it does cut hair now, I guess I need to keep on Improving ....... Thanks for the help
Jaxx
Moderator
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2006
- Messages
- 19,858
Don't know what you are using this on, but if it's say food...on a ceramic or glass plate for example, then since the plate is much harder than the steel, every contact with it may be dulling the very edge. Got a kitchen Cultellus that really needs some attention, because I use it as a steak knife every time I have one, and the plate has dulled a good portion of the top of the edge over time. Still cuts the steak, but not as good as it should and did. 
Nice fatty warden, BTW. I love the GW's...it's the model that sucked me into the wide world of Busse.:thumbup:
Nice fatty warden, BTW. I love the GW's...it's the model that sucked me into the wide world of Busse.
:thumbup:
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2005
- Messages
- 2,984
To take Infi easily to hair poppin sharp get yourself a Spyderco Sharp maker and watch the DVD it comes with - once you have a sharp edge just use the white ceramic rods using the triangle pinnacle and gently stroke the edge once either side until hair poppin sharpness is reached.