Busse grip question

[david tn]

My first Busse was an NMSFNO. When I first put my hands on it I did not like the grip. I kind of made myself like it over time. It is a very sure grip but not that comfortable to me.
I bought a SJTAC a few weeks ago and find the grip to be one of my most comfortable of any knife I own (my best feeling knife is my ESEE 5, big and square but it is not INFI).
My question is, are there any other Busse that share this squarish handle similar to the SJTAC. In searching for pics most are the knives in profile. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, David

 

[til027]

The Basic series have more traditional style handles I believe, made out of res-c(correct me if I'm wrong).

 

[david tn]

Not to get too picky, I like the full tang.........OK, I am picky.

 

[elof_alv]

David,
There is a few models with the TAC handle, BATAC, Tank Buster... I'm sure some more experienced Hogs will step in.
The ergo series has fairly square handles.

 

[til027]

I have never owned one, but I am sure the Basics have a full tang.

 

[voracious1]

I have never owned one, but I am sure the Basics have a full tang.

It's not quite a full tang, as it is relieved enough for the res-c to wrap around it. If i wasn't on my wireless 3g crap i would search the numerous pics and diagrams for ya. . .
But i have a hurricane in my yard.
Jody

 

[AZTimT]

You could always sand down the handles on your NMSFNO to make them feel right in your hand if it is a user.
If it's not a user then I wouldn't recommend it if you think you may want to sell it... been there, learned the lesson the hard way. :foot:

As far as squarish handles based on that being your description of the SJTAC handle, I would consider the following applicable info.
The other TAC handled blades are the BATAC (1 up bottom right), Jack Hammer (8 up bottom right), Tank Buster (7 up from bottom right), ARK/NARK and I can't remember any others at the moment.
The ergo series are even more squarish, but still feel good to me, and of course the SAR 4 (bottom right), SAR 6 (12-15 up from botom right), SAR 8 (left of middle group with NMSFNO) & SARGE7 are pretty square gripped too.
If you can find a skinny ash-1 with standard thickness handles(11 up from bottom right), those are squarish and feel great, including the 3B2 or the 2007 SE (or was it 2008?).
Standard thickness handles on a fusion handle aren't bad either, but I prefer them on the thicker blades, with mags on the thinner ones.
The HG55 is another squarish one that feels good. (4 up from bottom right).
This is an older collection shot that shows most of the knifes I listed above, though some of them have been rehomed.

Then in the kin, the RMD is great, like a smaller SJTAC, you may find yourself with a few of those if you get a taste.
The mini mojo was square too, someone else would have to point out the other rats for you, I haven't tried out as many of them as INFI.

Hope this helps and sorry if it just makes things worse. Seriously, if you like the feel of the SJTAC don't overlook the RMD though for great smaller carry knife, they are pretty amazing. :thumbup:

 

[david tn]

It's not quite a full tang, as it is relieved enough for the res-c to wrap around it. If i wasn't on my wireless 3g crap i would search the numerous pics and diagrams for ya. . .
But i have a hurricane in my yard.
Jody

Jody, Good luck with that.....let's us know how you go. Our thoughts and prayers are with yall.

 

[david tn]

You could always sand down the handles on your NMSFNO to make them feel right in your hand if it is a user.
If it's not a user then I wouldn't recommend it if you think you may want to sell it... been there, learned the lesson the hard way. :foot:

As far as squarish handles based on that being your description of the SJTAC handle, I would consider the following applicable info.
The other TAC handled blades are the BATAC (1 up bottom right), Jack Hammer (8 up bottom right), Tank Buster (7 up from bottom right), ARK/NARK and I can't remember any others at the moment.
The ergo series are even more squarish, but still feel good to me, and of course the SAR 4 (bottom right), SAR 6 (12-15 up from botom right), SAR 8 (left of middle group with NMSFNO) & SARGE7 are pretty square gripped too.
If you can find a skinny ash-1 with standard thickness handles(11 up from bottom right), those are squarish and feel great, including the 3B2 or the 2007 SE (or was it 2008?).
Standard thickness handles on a fusion handle aren't bad either, but I prefer them on the thicker blades, with mags on the thinner ones.
The HG55 is another squarish one that feels good. (4 up from bottom right).
This is an older collection shot that shows most of the knifes I listed above, though some of them have been rehomed.

Then in the kin, the RMD is great, like a smaller SJTAC, you may find yourself with a few of those if you get a taste.
The mini mojo was square too, someone else would have to point out the other rats for you, I haven't tried out as many of them as INFI.

Hope this helps and sorry if it just makes things worse. Seriously, if you like the feel of the SJTAC don't overlook the RMD though for great smaller carry knife, they are pretty amazing. :thumbup:

Dang Tim, I wish a lived a little closer to you. Nice collection!
I would be afraid to put sand paper to the grip of a Busse.
I got a RMD the same day I got my SJTAC. You are right about the similarities. I have big hands and the RMD is almost too small. The RMD is just OK in my hand.
It would be nice to be able to hold some knives in my hands before I have to buy them and pay shipping to Australia.
I might give a SAR a go. All good advise, David

 

[2Dead]

I was going to say RMD as well but if you already have one then I'll post this pic to show how the SAR/SARGE handle compares.

 

[uyotg]

ergos, SARs!

 

[kniferMan]

David, did you try the TGLB? I thought they were very comfortable a little more suited for smaller hands in my opnion but nice. But than again I like the NMSFNO grips along with all the battle mistress grips. Sorry, not much help huh .

 

[2Dead]

Adding TGLB pics... I think the camera angle is affecting the top pic. The SARGE handle is slightly longer than the TGLB's handle.

 

[Starlight1967]

What part of Australia are you in David? I'm down south - I've got a couple different handle types you could try if you're nearby.
G

 

[david tn]

What part of Australia are you in David? I'm down south - I've got a couple different handle types you could try if you're nearby.
G

We have a house SW of Brisbane. We are working on Groote Eylandt just off the NT. I wish a had a good Busse neighbour. Thanks, David

 

[david tn]

Adding TGLB pics... I think the camera angle is affecting the top pic. The SARGE handle is slightly longer than the TGLB's handle.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh212/zw-2Dead/Knife%20Collection/Knife%20Collection%202/IMG_3380.



2Dead, Thank you for those very nice pics. I have a TGLB that is a good comparison. David

 

[chiral.grolim]

It's not quite a full tang, as it is relieved enough for the res-c to wrap around it. If i wasn't on my wireless 3g crap i would search the numerous pics and diagrams for ya. . .
But i have a hurricane in my yard.
Jody

This is a minor point in this discussion, but the term Full Tang means simply that the tang (composed of contiguous material with the blade) extends the full length of the handle, and has no bearing whatsoever on width, thickness, conformation to handle contours, etc. This applies equally to screw-drivers, chisels, and other hand tools.

The ResC-handled knives are indeed "full-tang".

Prayers for those encountering Sandy and her after-effects. Look out for your neighbors as well :thumbup:

 

[knife hunter]

Take a look at Eu handles. Not many to choose but I wish they'd bring it back. My favorite of all.

 

[leatherman]

This is a minor point in this discussion, but the term Full Tang means simply that the tang (composed of contiguous material with the blade) extends the full length of the handle, and has no bearing whatsoever on width, thickness, conformation to handle contours, etc. This applies equally to screw-drivers, chisels, and other hand tools.

The ResC-handled knives are indeed "full-tang".

Prayers for those encountering Sandy and her after-effects. Look out for your neighbors as well :thumbup:

The tang is fully encapsulated in the handle material, there is at least 1/4" of material between the end of the tang and the butt of the handle. Weather this can still be referred to as a full tang is up to Google or Wiki.

Edit: Breaking news, Encapsulated Tang
This tang is smaller than the handle. The handle is fitted or molded around the tang.

 

[chiral.grolim]

The tang is fully encapsulated in the handle material, there is at least 1/4" of material between the end of the tang and the butt of the handle. Weather this can still be referred to as a full tang is up to Google or Wiki.

Edit: Breaking news, Encapsulated Tang
This tang is smaller than the handle. The handle is fitted or molded around the tang.

Yup, that'd be the "pommel", it's beyond the "grip-portion" which really defines the "handle". You could cut away all the material on the pommel until the tang is visible and still have the full grip portion of the handle with the tang running through it - "full tang".

Most medieval European swords were also full encapsulated tapered tangs.

Gerber's LMFII is another almost full-tang design (~4/5 if you include both guards) that folks get confused about because they can't see the tang (again, encapsulated) and there is a disconnected piece of metal forming the pommel - but the actual tang runs 4/5 the full length of the grip-section that defines the handle. Anything beyond the grip-section in either direction is technically not the "handle", although many folks tend to just divide knives into blade+handle - whatever is not blade is handle and whatever is not handle is blade. In reality, a given knife's 'anatomy' may be more complex, even a simple fixed-blade: blade-tip, blade-belly, blade-heel, ricasso, tang, guard, handle, pommel, etc. Some designs make these major parts quite obvious, others may integrate them into a single piece. Is an "integral guard" part of the handle or the blade? Technically, neither. The same goes for the pommel, but if they are of the same material as one or the other then that is what we (inaccurately) consider them part of. *shrug* It doesn't really matter, it's just an obfuscation of terms.

A tang doesn't need to be as wide or thick as the handle, nor need it extend beyond the grip-section (true 'handle') to be "full". If it did, then ANY sort of wrap (be it ResC or paracord or even masking-tape) would make it no longer "full" as the handle is now wider/thicker than the tang. Most chisels I've used are "full tang", i.e. the metal of which the blade is composed runs the full length of the handle, but the tang is nowhere near the thickness of the handle. Also, can a tang be "full" yet skeletonized or tapered or otherwise hollowed? If not, then almost NO knife is "full tang" since most have holes drilled through them for pin-placement.


Again, none of this really matters, it's just obfuscation of terms. But unfortunately such widespread obfuscation leads to erroneous ideas like, "That hidden-tang knife isn't full tang because it isn't visible around the handle," coupled with "Hidden-tangs are weak, you can't trust a knife with a hidden-tang for hard use". Both statements are false but WIDELY accepted as fact, especially among Bark River fans who have read the KSF article about batoning & hidden-tang knives. The article is ironic as it describes Mora's performing better than BRKT knives and asserts, "it is now being stressed in a direction and with a load it was never intended to face." The author has clearly never tested his theory with a Busse


I know that was all very long-winded, hopefully most readers just ignored it, but I feel compelled to jump in whenever I encounter this minor confusion. Call it a personal problem I should drink more...