Busse Knives, Salt Water, High Humidity, Hard Use... Tips On Keeping RUST @ Bay??

Jaxx

Jaxx

Moderator
Joined
Jan 18, 2006
Messages
19,866
Here's the scenario...

One Busse knife. factory satin finish, G-10 handles.

Will experience: high humidity, tropical temps & at times, heavy rains, wet conditions, also salt/brackish water, sometimes all day for days straight. Will be used in hunting/fishing, including cleaning/gutting fish & game. May experience this for many days way out in the field. Will also be used for digging, chopping, cooking, etc. "Hard Use" is most likely an understatement here... :eek:

If rust could love, then it loves this particular type of climate. Those of you who have used your Busse's in similar conditions... How do you keep rust off of your Busse's? What do you bring in the field to keep your knife devoid of rust & ready for duty? How do you store your Busse's between these types of excursions? What do you do to keep your knife looking fairly decent? Sharp?? ...And consistently RUST FREE???

Advice & pix needed from all you HARD USE INFI addicts, please! :) Yes, I've been around for awhile and I know INFI rocks, but this info is for a fellow knife knut who will really be putting a knife through some rough stuff and wants to try a Busse. Hopefully this'll be good info for all, me included.

Also, has anyone had their Busse treated with a boron carbon coating, such as DiamondBlack (or any other type of DLC treatment)?? Recommendations? Yea or nay??

Thanxx for reading, and TIA for any advice ya got! :thumbup:

Jaxx
 
Marine Tuff Cloth is what I use when I go out in the Everglades and my backyard area.
http://www.sentrysolutions.com/MarineTufCloth.shtml

Really any old oil will do if you apply it enough (I recommend mineral oil if you plan on using it for food prep), but the tuff cloth is great because it works better longer and comes in it's own handy resealable pouch.

Be careful to clean and protect your knife before resheathing. The dirt and moisture that your knife can transfer into the sheath can be a big problem.

I like leather but kydex is easier to clean and wash out if it gets dirty or wet.

If you are going to be on the water a lot, might I suggest using a lanyard (having to snorkle in 8 feet of alligator habitat, brackish, brown, cloudy water is NOOOOO fun (well OK... a little fun, but it is better to be safe).

What knife or knives are you planning on bringing?
 
.

Get one of the original Steel Heart 1s, they are made from ATS-34, stainless steel. Or use Renwax (RENAISSANCE WAX) on any other blade after use. :D
 
Switching focus from the knife to the sheath, if you are taking a leather sheath, spray a little silicone on the inside of your sheath. That will help to keep moisture at bay, which of course would contribute to rust.
 
Jaxx is moving to Brazil?

+1 on the Marine Tuff Cloth.

I'd go with kydex on the sheath. Dries fast, doesn't absorb water.
 
Hog Feet said:
Marine Tuff Cloth is what I use when I go out in the Everglades and my backyard area.
http://www.sentrysolutions.com/MarineTufCloth.shtml

Really any old oil will do if you apply it enough (I recommend mineral oil if you plan on using it for food prep), but the tuff cloth is great because it works better longer and comes in it's own handy resealable pouch.

Be careful to clean and protect your knife before resheathing. The dirt and moisture that your knife can transfer into the sheath can be a big problem.

I like leather but kydex is easier to clean and wash out if it gets dirty or wet.

If you are going to be on the water a lot, might I suggest using a lanyard (having to snorkle in 8 feet of alligator habitat, brackish, brown, cloudy water is NOOOOO fun (well OK... a little fun, but it is better to be safe).

What knife or knives are you planning on bringing?
Click to expand...

FBM proto. :thumbup: Not exactly my first choice, but that's what is wanted.

Guyon said:
Jaxx is moving to Brazil?

+1 on the Marine Tuff Cloth.

I'd go with kydex on the sheath. Dries fast, doesn't absorb water.
Click to expand...

Not me, but the knife... To Suriname S.A.
...............................................................................................

Good tips so far... Please keep 'um coming!

Also, anyone recommend/not recommend DLC coating?

Thank you! :thumbup:
 
Damn I love the descriptive question you gave. Send a rugged camera along too! That is going to be one intense trip, am interested to know the highlights that propagated this query and the story that unfolds with it.:thumbup:
 
DLC is awesome. That or Titanium Aluminum Nitride will keep rust at bay better than any sort of wax or rust preventative. Unless in a salt water environment 24/7 I would not even worry about rust creeping under the coating. Even then.. the chances of that happening is very slim compared to say hardchrome.


I agree with others about Marine Tuff Cloth and Renwax.
 
Sentry Tuff Cloth is a good one to have in the field and if it gets dried out you can put a few drops of high quality mineral spirits on it and zip it back in the pouch. One thing I don't see mentioned too often is 'Miracle Cloth', for me it travels better than the Tuff Cloth and doesn't smell like mineral spirits. It cleans and protects and dries to a visible coating which is easily wiped off leaving the light wax protection behind. It used to be on the counter at the hardware store but I had to order from AG Russell last time. It lasts a loooong time too.
 
Jaxx---I love my Busse knife, but in the conditions that you speak of, I grab my Mission knife. I will Not worry about rust. I have other things to worry about!
 
I have always had great success with Break Free Lubricant Preservative (not CLP). I wipe the blades down once a day and it works very well. The little bottle is easy to carry and last along time (works great on guns to)
 
Satin finish, no problem. Let it be, wipe it dry after it gets wet and don't worry about it. Any rust that forms will come right off with a bit of flitz and 5 minutes of your time.
 
Tinbasher said:
You should remove the scales and get some glue under them in conditions like that.
Richard
Click to expand...

10,000 lb. pressure flared tube fasteners. :eek: I don't think glue would make a difference. If these slabs needed glue Jerry would have put glue there. :thumbup:
 
mhawg said:
10,000 lb. pressure flared tube fasteners. :eek: I don't think glue would make a difference. If these slabs needed glue Jerry would have put glue there. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

It could make a difference in terms of corrosion resistance, though. Moisture under the scales is never fun, even if the damage was merely cosmetic.
 
Some Makers do seal their tangs with epoxy, or such, before the handle is attached.
 
Elen said:
It could make a difference in terms of corrosion resistance, though. Moisture under the scales is never fun, even if the damage was merely cosmetic.
Click to expand...

Lycosa said:
Some Makers do seal their tangs with epoxy, or such, before the handle is attached.
Click to expand...

Yeah, but we're talking Busses here! :D



You are correct about the dangers and what other knife makers do but if you rub down the spine/handle slab juncture with a nice juicy Tuff Cloth the barrier is formed and normal maintenance with the cloth should do the trick without letting out the Wauseon air from behind the slabs.
 
Epoxy tends to crack sometimes. It's not a solution. I don't like it but I prefer to let the Busse coating, at least under the scales, because I hate rust on my knives. Grease or oil on both blade and handle, and good maintenance are ok for me.

bash102pea4.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top