Busse Knives

Joined
Jul 25, 1999
Messages
66
I would like to correspond with other Busse knife owners and share ideas.I own a Steel Heart II and a Badger Attack,Basic 9, also have a Battle Mistress comeing soon.I really like the blades.I was wondering what everyone thinks of the new aysemetricle edge.My Badger Attack has the new edge.

Jeff
 
Jeffs
I have a Basic 9. This is the only Busse knife i have at the moment and i am pleased with it I guess. The asymmetrical grind is fine.It seems to be a hair bit to hard to sharpen though. I have also seen a bit of edge chipping. It isn;t huge chipping but i feel it when i run the blade through card board. have you had similar problems?
I think the asymetrical grind is a good design because it holds a very good edge over a period of time of chopping trees and other stuff.
Luke
 
Luke,

I have not had to resharpen my Basic 9 or Badger Attack with the aysemetricle edge.I'ts interesting that you stated that you thought they were harder to sharpen,I thought the idea was to make them easier to sharpen.
Are you sharpening by stropping the left side only like they Jerry Busse designed the blade to be sharpened. i would like to know how your sharpening yours.

Jeff
 
I' ve not had the opportunity to thoroughly test any of the Basics thus far. After paper and cardboard use I' ve touched up the #7 by using the suggested method. You really have to have a good feel for the proper angle since it is essentially free hand sharpening. It didn' t seem to improve the edge too much. I then attempted the same on my Sharpmaker in the "conventional" method. Big improvment. What can I say.

I' m curious to know though, that when the lefty sheaths become available, will the same grind be used for those blades or will it be reversed? What are your thoughts?

L8r,
Nakano
 
The edge can be sharpened readily with the usual methods (benchstones, Sharpmaker etc.) just restrain them to the flat side. If you don't like the partial convex grind just hone it off. It took 150 strones on a 12" SiC to make both edge bevels on my Basic #7 flat. I didn't do it for performance reasons, I was just curious as to how long it would take to do it. I'll probably put it back on later.

-Cliff
 
Hi Lukers, Did you say you had some edge chipping on the Busse knife you have I wounder if any one else has had this problem?
 
I saw very small little chips. THey were very tiny but they were there. I am not concerned about it too much. When chunks of the blade start chipping then i will be concerned
smile.gif

As far as resharpening, I guess it wasn't that hard. It just seemed different compared to 1095 which is what my other knives are made of.
So do you sharpen the side of the blade that shows very little metal? Or the other edge? Is it a good idea to get ride of the wire edge that forms?
thanks
luke
 
:
I really messed up the edge on my Busse #9.My g'daughter had some paper she needed cut up and I thought it would be a good test.I had an old piece of hard firewood in my workroom and unknowingly had some small rocks and sand embeded deeply in the end of it.

I have to say the knife really held up well considering.There were a number of chips and rolled places where the edge hit the small rocks.I would say the biggest one was 1/8" in dia.

I put a piece of sandpaper about 2" wide in my vise and held one end while carefully puttng the convex edge on.Kinda like useing a slack belt.
I then used a piece of sandpaper over a file and sanded the flat edge.It came back as new.I stroked it on a set of crock sticks and smoothed the edge considerably.It is shaving sharp and cuts paper better than it did out of the box.

I actually recut the edge on it and found it extremely easy using this
method.
The modified INFI acts like a much softer steel when it comes to sharpening it.Even before I recut the edge it was still very much serviceable.I just didn't like the nicks in the edge.
YMMV.


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>>>>---¥vsa---->®

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Khukuri FAQ


 
Luke,

Apparently your supposed to sharpen the left edge or smaller edge by stropping it backwards away from the cutting edge on a ceramic stone or the likes.Does this make sense or can someone explain it better?.
I dont know what you do with a burr if it is formed,I guess i would remove it lightly on the convex edge with a very fine or ceramic stone.

Jeff
 
Jeff
thanks, that does make sense. I guess i got a bit messed up. It seems kinda strange to sharpen only one side. It works though!
Have you done any hard hard chopping with the Basic 9? I sure did! I chops really good,except for one thing...it seems to "skate" off the wood being chopped when i chop with one side. No big deal though. I'll will just chop at a higher angle downward.
I like the knife general though. Great handle(although i like the looks of the handle on the BM), Blade is excellent...holds an edge really well and isn't too big,sheath is great too...i am easy to please but i like the fact that it can be clipped on and unclipped easily and the handle is further down on my leg so it doesn't bind when i sit down, Over all it is worth it's weight in gold.(well not quite)
I used it on saturday to clean a squirrel i shot. It was surprisingly manuverable and now i know that it could be done if needed and no other tools were available.
The Basic 9 will definitely be part of all my outdoor excursions.
Once again, i appreciate the sharpening help!
Luke
 
I got two SMALL chips in mine. I used it to quarter two deer on opening weekend for two other guys i was hunting with. Used a fine steel and almost got the "chips" out. There are still two very fine distortions in the edge, small chips I guess. but it is still very sharp.

I found that the edge shape did pull to the left while chopping.



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Dwight
Metro Atlanta Area

This post is a natural product.
The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects.


 
Gee I really envy you guys, I was supposed to get my Badger Attack last month, but haven't recieved any notice on when they are going to ship it.
 
Jeff
I was reading over in the Livesay forums that you have an air assault. So do I!!! It is very nice. Comfy handles, awesome sheath and holds a great egde. we must have a very similar taste in knives or something
LUke
 
Using a ceramic rod as illustrated by the Busse sharpening instructions will not generate a wire edge. INFI and M-INFI don't seem to do this readily in any case. I don't double bevel the edges, after sharpening the flat side I just strop both sides on canvas and then leather (loaded).

-Cliff
 
Thanks Cliff,

Thanks for the reply Cliff and all posts.
Cliff, I would like to see a Busse Forum on Blade forums.Any possibility?.
Do you think the new edge is better than the old style?.

thanks again.
Jeff S
 
Jeff, I have mentioned that to Jerry a couple of times as have Mike and Spark I think. The problem I would bet is the time is currently not there.

As for the edge, convex edges have strong benefits over flat ones. They slide through material easier and are more resistant to damage. The only problem with them is that they require different methods to sharpen. By combing the edges you get the advantages of both.

Noting that it is a lot easier to take a convex bevel off if you don't like it than it is to put one on (except if you are skilled enough with a slack belt sander), I would think it is a good idea to keep them as is. The only performance problem I have seen is that some people describe them as pulling to one side, I have not noticed this with my Basic or BM though.


-Cliff
 
I had a Steel Heart II with the old edge and one with the new one. I kinda like the old style.
 
I didnt get any instructions with my BF #9.Can anyone post a copy of the actual instructions for sharpening?
 
knnut

The first shipment only had written instructions with a drawing of a cross section of the edge. Those that followed were improved with written and illustrated instructions.

It would be great if Jerry could post'em on his website with any personal comments.

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Frank Norman
Valdosta, GA
 
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