dogboye
Gold Member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 1999
- Messages
- 7,149
I thought it might be interesting for people to see a comparison of two blades that are quite similar, in my eyes, even though neither of them are still available, except on the secondary market. Those two blades are the Swamp Rat Rodent 6 and the just arriving Busse Team Gemini-Mini.
In overall length, these two blades are almost identical, with the R6 being 11 3/4", and the TG-M being 11 13/16" OAL. The blades on both my samples are 6 3/8" from the front of the scales to the blade tip, while the cutting edge lengths are a bit different. The R6 cutting edge, measured linearly from the beginning to the edge to the blade tip (not along the edge) is 5 5/8", while the same measurement on the TG-M is 5 5/16".
In the hand, the weights are very similar, with the R6 being 15 3/8 oz, while the TG-M is 17 5/8 oz. Interesting, in that the R6 is from thicker steel, SR-101, at 0.265", while the TG-M is billed as 0.220". The advertised R6 thickness is accurate, based on my micrometer, with the crinkle sage coating worn smooth. The mic'd thickness of the TG-M, with the crinkle sage coating unworn (as of yet) is 0.2385".
The balance is, IMO, a bit different, though. The R6 feels much more like a chopper, and balances right at the center of the cross-guard. The TG-M, on the other hand, balances right at the back edge of the front-most scale bushing (or pin, or hole, or whatever you want to call it). The balance on the TG-M is much more what I would expect a fighter to be. It is quicker in the hand, more lively, with that balance point.
R6 grind is higher, but is a bit thicker behind the edge bevel. I haven't taken measurements on either of them of the thickness just behind the edge bevel, but the TG-M's is definitely thinner.
The difference in the grip scales is drastic, though. The R6 is subtly contoured, with out much of a drop at the rear, nor flare. This makes it difficult to chop with it very long. Not due to hot-spots. It is quite comfortable in that respect. But the grip strength required to prevent it slipping out of your hand is high, especially if you are wearing gloves. I have tried several types of lanyard configurations, none of which are satisfactory in my opinion. I love the knife, and for quick sessions of chopping, it works great. It can easily take of branches about a half-inch in diameter, on medium-hard, green wood.
With the heavily contoured scales on the TG-M, I believe it will be possible to slide back on the grip area, holding it primarily on the aft flare, and make it a fine chopper as well. I haven't had a chance to try it yet, as I just received it this week, and it has been raining steadily all week. The only thing I can think of that might prevent it from being a good chopper is with the balance point, even sliding back on the grip, the sweet spot for chopping might not be suitable for branches of any substantial size. I imagine it will do quite well for small branches, though, regardless of where the sweet spot is.
In overall length, these two blades are almost identical, with the R6 being 11 3/4", and the TG-M being 11 13/16" OAL. The blades on both my samples are 6 3/8" from the front of the scales to the blade tip, while the cutting edge lengths are a bit different. The R6 cutting edge, measured linearly from the beginning to the edge to the blade tip (not along the edge) is 5 5/8", while the same measurement on the TG-M is 5 5/16".
In the hand, the weights are very similar, with the R6 being 15 3/8 oz, while the TG-M is 17 5/8 oz. Interesting, in that the R6 is from thicker steel, SR-101, at 0.265", while the TG-M is billed as 0.220". The advertised R6 thickness is accurate, based on my micrometer, with the crinkle sage coating worn smooth. The mic'd thickness of the TG-M, with the crinkle sage coating unworn (as of yet) is 0.2385".
The balance is, IMO, a bit different, though. The R6 feels much more like a chopper, and balances right at the center of the cross-guard. The TG-M, on the other hand, balances right at the back edge of the front-most scale bushing (or pin, or hole, or whatever you want to call it). The balance on the TG-M is much more what I would expect a fighter to be. It is quicker in the hand, more lively, with that balance point.
R6 grind is higher, but is a bit thicker behind the edge bevel. I haven't taken measurements on either of them of the thickness just behind the edge bevel, but the TG-M's is definitely thinner.
The difference in the grip scales is drastic, though. The R6 is subtly contoured, with out much of a drop at the rear, nor flare. This makes it difficult to chop with it very long. Not due to hot-spots. It is quite comfortable in that respect. But the grip strength required to prevent it slipping out of your hand is high, especially if you are wearing gloves. I have tried several types of lanyard configurations, none of which are satisfactory in my opinion. I love the knife, and for quick sessions of chopping, it works great. It can easily take of branches about a half-inch in diameter, on medium-hard, green wood.
With the heavily contoured scales on the TG-M, I believe it will be possible to slide back on the grip area, holding it primarily on the aft flare, and make it a fine chopper as well. I haven't had a chance to try it yet, as I just received it this week, and it has been raining steadily all week. The only thing I can think of that might prevent it from being a good chopper is with the balance point, even sliding back on the grip, the sweet spot for chopping might not be suitable for branches of any substantial size. I imagine it will do quite well for small branches, though, regardless of where the sweet spot is.
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![](http://[URL="http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/Evin_Beck/media/Mobile%20Uploads/38D9DE5F-9845-4A3A-B7BC-B13C48DE563D_zpsdawjapzq.jpg.html%5D%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u370/Evin_Beck/Mobile%20Uploads/38D9DE5F-9845-4A3A-B7BC-B13C48DE563D_zpsdawjapzq.jpg%5B/IMG%5D%5B/URL")
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