Busse TGLB - regrind & edge geometry

REK Knives

REK Knives

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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Curious as to your thoughts and feedback guys on maximum edge/blade geometry for chopping w/ INFI. I feel like I could have maximized this more if I had the time, but I got it fixed up pretty good from where it was at before.

I was debating on a flat vs. a convex regrind, but I ended up going w/ convex for a little added strength. Before the edge was around .070" thick at a pretty steep edge angle - very thick, and lacked penetrating power. After I reground it to .020" thick on the main part of the edge and let it widen up to .030" at the tip, measurements are with a 17 dps edge.

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Took it out after the regrind and proceeded to stab in the wood to see if the tip would bend and it was solid. Also seemed to have good penetrating power now. I chopped into seasoned hickory until I got tired, got to the core of the wood where there was a knot but had no issues w/ any major edge deformation. This is the worst damage:

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I feel like I could have went lower w/ a relief bevel and then set the secondary at 15 dps w/ a 20 dps micro bevel on it for slightly added strength... thoughts or experiences?
 
Looks great. I think you can go thinner with it. I like how you left that groove coated, gives it a cool two tone look
 
Wow, nice work. :thumbup:

I'm not so crazy about the thick edge on my INFIManDu, there may be a regrind in my future....
 
I dont know too much about grind classifications or types of points and such yet, but could you tell me if you went from a sabre grind to a full flat grind on the tglb in the pictures? Or am i just seeing things? If so, what advantages are there in doing so?

Side note, does anyone know where i can find info on types of edges, types of blade styles and points? The curve has been slow for me on this and i need to catch up. Thanks.
 
Loving the look on that TGLB! Got me looking at mine and thinking!
 
The way I'd do it is only pay attention to thinning the primary grind and getting it to where you're only left with a barely visible edge grind and finishing that somewhere around 17 degrees per side or slightly more if you're getting too much deformation.
 
Thanks guys... How thin have you all taken infi to and seen it still be stable?

Busse007 said:
I dont know too much about grind classifications or types of points and such yet, but could you tell me if you went from a sabre grind to a full flat grind on the tglb in the pictures? Or am i just seeing things? If so, what advantages are there in doing so?

Side note, does anyone know where i can find info on types of edges, types of blade styles and points? The curve has been slow for me on this and i need to catch up. Thanks.
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I'll see what I can dig up for you... on this one, it was a mid slightly hollow grind I believe, I converted it to a full convex primary grind into a secondary grind that is .020" thick. This may help w/ terminology...

Edge-Bevel.jpg




Red Angel Dragnet said:
The way I'd do it is only pay attention to thinning the primary grind and getting it to where you're only left with a barely visible edge grind and finishing that somewhere around 17 degrees per side or slightly more if you're getting too much deformation.
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That's basically what I did, however, I did not get what I would classify as "too much" edge deformation but it maybe could be optimized slightly more w/ a micro bevel. What I am mainly asking about in the OP is the thinnest yet still stable edge geometry for hard woods. In this specific instance, I did not have any blow outs as I did here. This edge held up relatively well. The biggest thing is you don't want any large blow outs in the secondary grind and DEFINITELY not in the primary lol. The deformation/rolling/denting was only .001" deep or so, so not bad =)
 
Man I love the looks of that, the contrast with satin and coating is nice! :thumbup:
 
Looks great - what is the new overall thickness at the ricasso? Thanks!! Also I have been very happy with sand paper and mouse pad to a zero edge and micro bevel. Works great for me on a working knife in the field.
 
Flatsman007 said:
Looks great - what is the new overall thickness at the ricasso? Thanks!! Also I have been very happy with sand paper and mouse pad to a zero edge and micro bevel. Works great for me on a working knife in the field.
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If you are talking about the thickness of the spine at the ricaso/plunge line area I basically just removed the paint and got maybe a few thousandths into the steel, you can't really see it when looking down from the spine.
 
Looks awesome! I've been hoping to get the time to get my RMD ground down, it's currently too thick IMHO to be an effective slicer.
 
plue said:
Looks awesome! I've been hoping to get the time to get my RMD ground down, it's currently too thick IMHO to be an effective slicer.
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DO IT!! It will be well worth the effort if done right….. :)

Rereading this thread has me tempted to do something similar to a TGLB, but damn I need another knife like a hole in the head….. :foot:
 
I thinned my own RMD out on my Worksharp and it's the sliciest thing I own, doesn't take much once you get the coating off.


I love what you did here!
I've been contemplating sending you a couple Swamp Rats to regrind for me.
After seeing the work you did on this TGLB it's only a matter of time before I have at least one of them on its way to you.
I'm thinking my R6 could use a regrind practically identical to that one.
 
Lance23 said:
I thinned my own RMD out on my Worksharp and it's the sliciest thing I own, doesn't take much once you get the coating off.


I love what you did here!
I've been contemplating sending you a couple Swamp Rats to regrind for me.
After seeing the work you did on this TGLB it's only a matter of time before I have at least one of them on its way to you.
I'm thinking my R6 could use a regrind practically identical to that one.
Click to expand...

Let me know =) Here is another Busse (Active Duty) I did recently!
 
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