Busserrations vs. Spydie serrations (need Elder Hogs input)

Walking Man

Walking Man

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Hello all,
I have two... Yes two Spydercos in VG-10....
One is an SS delica, and the the other is a Cal Jr.
(to be absolutely clear, I'm defining the Busserations as the alternating straight-groove pattern, where the Spydie serrations are standard.)
I'm planning on having my friend Joe put Busserrations on the Cal Jr. to do some comparison testing with the Spydie serration to see which one I like better, and which works best under different conditions. Both are sharp! and lightly used. I'll make sure Joe sees that there is a similar geometry to keep this test fair.
Here's a few questions for you guys..... Thanks!, especially the elder Hogs...
1) Do you think that the hollow ground of the Delica vs the the flat ground of Cal Jr. will make much of a difference for this test? I do not.
2) Have there ever been any comparison tests done, so I know I'm not wasting my time. Thanks.
 
I'm not an elder HOG but this is an open forum so I will add my opinion, as I so often freely do!

1) It depends what you're cutting. If you're cutting deep I think the flat ground blade may have more drag than a hollow ground blade (assuming the same width at the spine). Measurable? Maybe not, but different nonetheless. If the width of the blades at the shoulder of the primary-to-secondary bevel is the same width on both knives, and the secondary bevel angle is the same, and if you're not cutting deep then you might be ok.

2) I have no idea. What do you take me for, and old guard Elder HOG?

Sounds like a cool test! (my bet is on the SpyderEdge, but I'm sure the winner will depend on the medium you're cutting)
 
mikeymoto said:
I(my bet is on the SpyderEdge, but I'm sure the winner will depend on the medium you're cutting)
Click to expand...
I'd like you to expand on that. Let me know what you think will do better and why. My guess is .... the Busse will do better on fibrous materials, like, rope, meat, and cloth while the Spyderco will do better on softer materials, like blister packs, plastics, maybe leather, stuff like that.
 
My impression is that the Busserations are spaced pretty far apart, so there are lots of "flats" of edge-space between serrations. For example I have a SR custom shop Howling Rat with teeth on the swedge, and without it in front of me I recall that there are flats ~1/5" or so of "tooth" between the serrations.

On the spyderedge the serrations are butted together so you just have points, teeth if you will, between the grooves, if that makes sense.

Going into this my impression ("right" or "wrong" as it may be) is that serrations are used to more aggressively cut a medium. I think the sharp teeth with no flats to speak of on the Spyder Edge have more chance to "tear into" a medium than the Busserations with lots of edge flats. In other words, I suspect the spyderedge will cut more aggressively per amount of linear edge length used to cut.

Where it might fail is in materials where the "teeth" on the spyder edge could get tangled or snagged rather than cutting or tearing clean through.

I do have to say Busserations are sometimes placed where I would guess they would be more effective - on the front of a combo edged knife - and I haven't seen that on a Spyderco.

:confused::confused: I don't know, so I look forward to any testing that does take place, so then I can have some informed ideas!!
 
I've never tried a serrated Busse, so I can't speak to the original question here. However, in terms of all the serrated production knives I have tried (Spyderco, Benchmade, Buck, Camillus/Becker, CRKT, Victorinox, Wenger, etc.), nobody does serrations as well as Spyderco. So I think you picked a good standard by which to compare/contrast the Busse serrations. Will be interested in what you find.
 
It is my understanding that Busse Serrations are for Stabbing or hacking, not basic slicing or common cutting, for the most part.

On a few of the Basics there are pretty good cutting/slicing serrations.

There are prolly some on some other Busse's as well, so you might want to get several examples in pictures at least before you decide Which Busse Serration to use for a particular cutting job.
 
papathud said:
It is my understanding that Busse Serrations are for Stabbing or hacking, not basic slicing or common cutting, for the most part.
Click to expand...

That was my unschooled/uninformed impression as well. While I thought serrations looked cool as all get-out on the Sus Scrofa, it's the reason I never went for the serrated version (though it's probably going to be a rarity that everybody wants at some point). The SS looks to be more of a slicer than a stabber or chopper.
 
The idea I am trying to get across is that there are several different Busse Serration types.

Pick the one for the job you want to do.
 
papathud said:
The idea I am trying to get across is that there are several different Busse Serration types.

Pick the one for the job you want to do.
Click to expand...
That's going to be part of my review process as well. Thanks!
I'm going to try using them both for similar jobs and post my results, since few seem to be certain at the types of jobs the classic Busserrations are useful for. I know I'm not!
 
This is off of the Bad Mojo site... I believe Contender worked at Busse at the time.

Why Serrations ??

If you look at some of the recent knives we have come out with, notably the Flying Tiger and the Flying Mojo, you will notice they are "adorned" with unique serrations toward the front of the blade.

I have often been asked of late as to whether they really improve performance.

The answer is "No" and "Yes"! These serrations do not improve chopping performance, nor do they hinder it. Due to their shape and design they will not get stuck in whatever it is you are chopping, like normal serrations have a tendency to do. But the knives we have put them on are not really choppers, they are fighters.

Jerry has long believed that serrations are in the wrong place. For a fighter, you want the serrations on the front of the blade. Why? Well just like the old Ginsu knives were able to cut through anything, our "Flying" serrations would make short work of a leather jacket or equally heavy clothing or canvas material that would otherwise repel the sharpest blade. Our serrations, besides looking very aggressive, are VERY AGRESSIVE.

Just like the Combat line can win just about any cutting or chopping contest on this planet, they will likewise win any contest that simulates stabbing. So the next time someone pokes fun at these curious looking blades with their unique serrations, remember, they are not just for show, they are for real !

Contender
03/06/02
 
The serrations on my ST Ripper are very like the Spydercos I have had. They are unlike any other Busse serration I have seen. I was disappointed to see the Mini Sus Scrofa has the traditional Busse teeth, as I don't think they look as functional. I will be very interested in this test.
 
So it sounds like part of the testing regimen has to include stabbing into leather- or canvas-wrapped sacks of watermelon!
 
What I do not understand is WHY are the Busserrations on the bottom of several of the newer Ganza variants and stuff, if that style of Busserration is supposed to be on the tip? Same thing with the Jungle Warfare BM
 
How would this group evaluate the effectiveness of the Busserrations on the spine of the NARK?
 
hanover said:
How would this group evaluate the effectiveness of the Busserrations on the spine of the NARK?
Click to expand...
I believe the spine of the NARK sports regular serrations.
Yes.....
Here's a pic.
nark02.jpg

This is what I am refering to as Busserrations: (regardles of who made them, since I'm 99% sure Jerry invented this style)
fm03.jpg
 
The NARK serrations are machine-cut, vice the hand-cut "flying" type.

That being said, they are wicked effective on something like a strap or belt. I mostly use mine to cut the banding straps on boxes and bundles. I think they are much more effective than the non-serrated band breaker on the Force One.

fighters1.jpg


Rick
 
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