Button lock strength and reliability?

T

tirod3

Joined
Jun 27, 2006
Messages
1,700
Having some negative experience with the liner lock used on cheap knives, I began looking at my box of blades and thought "How many button locks do I have?"

Three, if you count the little Queen copperhead. The first two are a Paragon "black knife," a copy of the CNC auto that was issued in small part some years ago, and a BM auto now issued. Neither of which I would carry into work.

BUT, I am interested in the DDR 3 kit knife, which has a button lock. Which raises the question, how strong is the general design of button locks? I understand it works by having a narrow section to allow the tang of the knife to pass, and locks up on the larger cross section across the tang and liners.

Emmm, not much different than an Axis lock, just which way it moves. Of course, if the spring is internal, then the strength suffers as the lock is actually a tube, not solid bar section.

I tried to search, but after an hour not much on the subject. Yet there are others on the market, some are issued with NSN, and the design seems to have few flaws to compromise the final product - unlike cheap liner locks.

Anybody tested these?
 
I had a Microtech UMS with the button-lock and I was very impressed.
It was strong and reliable and seemed very fool-proof.
And it is one of the easiest locks to operate ever.
 
It seems a majority of button locks are autos or designed by full assisted makers, a natural outgrowth of the mechanism. Boker comes to mind. Operating button locks is as easy as many others; easier than a AGR One - Hand, LAWKS, or most liner locks. Back locks usually can't be done one-handed.

I've read reports of owners spinewhacking Axis locks; seems no point in even trying with a button lock as the forces are perpendicular to the unlocking movement. The impact would help restrain motion of the lock. The whole concept of the spinewhack test seems to challenge linerlocks and framelocks the most and became known as their popularity grew. Shocking the engagement ramp with high peak loads forces a poorly made lock apart. Doing the same to a button lock would require exceeding the shear strength of the cross stud. In that operating window, the button lock is far more secure than an inexpensive liner lock. The amount of pressure to fail may be less, but I'm not using it for a piton, either. It should hold up well enough in daily use.

Of course, I'm probably just trying to sell myself on the concept . . . :D
 
If they didn't work MOD, Microtech, and all the others wouldn't go for it. I have a great respect for them and have never had a problem with them.
 
I think a button lock will be slightly less strong than an Axis lock since the Axis lock uses a bar across the whole tang while a button lock contacts less area. But I prefer the lock and feel of the button lock. It is even easier to unlock than the Axis lock and can be just as smooth and fast if the knife is well-made.

I have owned a MOD ATFK and WHK Titan with button locks and they were both fantastic knives with fantastic locks. Better than any Axis lock knife I have ever used (710, ATFK, Grip, Rukus).
 
Button locks wear down on the liner portion that rubs across the tang end of the blade until it goes to the liner on the other side. The lock will then not hold the blade securely. If the liner is made of good steel it will last a long time. If it is a cheapy knife and the liner is 410 or other soft steel it will wear out in as little as 7 months as mine did.
 
Wow! I've never heard of a quality button-lock wearing out in just 7 months.
What knife was it so that I can avoid that one?
 
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