button lock?!

Knifemaker87

Knifemaker87

Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
1,073
hey!
does anybody have a schemaic of how a button lock works? i mean.. i understand the principle.. but how do you do it?
thanks
~chris
 
Come on Chris you have to do better than that, have you looked in the sticky at the top?

Spencer
 
I wanna know too. I've looked but barring ordering one from Knife Kits, I can't figure it out.
 
I have a real good idea on how to do one and have ordered the anular cutter for the coil spring.

I plan to try it on the lock-back I just built, it may not be a lock-back when I am done or even a knife:D

I may have to call someone to get some of the nitty gritty but it cannot be that hard.

Spencer
 
I think (correct me if I'm wrong, Chris) but he doesn't want to do an auto, just a lock variant.
 
Erick is right.. i am just playing around with lock variants.
i was hoping to make a locking knife, while avoiding the liner lock.
i was hoping to make a couple knives for christmas, and while they will most likly end up being friction folders, i was hoping to modify them..
thanks so much!
(and i am gonna go look for the sticky)
thanks!
~chris
 
http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=1_13&products_id=20

If you buy one, you have it in your hand.

Th website also has detailed photos of the parts, and sells the lock parts separately too.

http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=60_90

btnkit-blk.jpg


The tapered portion of the part is pulled into a drilled cutout on the tang with spring pressure. When the button is pressed, the smaller diameter lines up in the hole and has clearance- allowing the blade to open.

Just one cutout for locked open, two cutouts for locked open or closed(auto)
 
I understand how the actual lock works. but i dont understand were the spring goes in the knife....how can that be in the frame without it interfering with the lock?

also, can you have two cut-outs to keep the blade closed instead of using a detent ball? or how do you keep it closed?
thanks so much for the silly questions
~chris
 
Just my guess, Chris, but I believe the spring goes between the bolster and the bottom of the pictured button on the opposite side of the knife from the button. Probably a small recess for the spring in the bolster and in the bottom of the button. It is never within the operation portion of the knife to interfere, just tucked away in the bolster. Bolster/spring/button bottom......blade.

And you should be able to notch the blade to accept the button lock to lock open and locked closed. Push the button to release and allow it to open. Be careful about your state's knifes laws regarding gravity knives.

--nathan
 
silver_pilate said:
Just my guess, Chris, but I believe the spring goes between the bolster and the bottom of the pictured button on the opposite side of the knife from the button. Probably a small recess for the spring in the bolster and in the bottom of the button. It is never within the operation portion of the knife to interfere, just tucked away in the bolster. Bolster/spring/button bottom......blade.

And you should be able to notch the blade to accept the button lock to lock open and locked closed. Push the button to release and allow it to open. Be careful about your state's knifes laws regarding gravity knives.

--nathan
Click to expand...

Exactly what Nathan said... It would really help you to have a kit knife in hand such as the one Steven Penner suggested. That's what I started with before making my first button lock. Made all the difference in the world to SEE it.

Eric
 
Chris,

There are a couple threads over on CKG about button locks. A few makers that do them basically said it requires a lot more precision to pull one off. I have a few of the cheap Bokers that I have taken apart to see how they work. It don't look like it would be easier than a liner lock.

Lon
 
hey!
thanks for the help.. i understand now..
and having one in hand would explain alot i think.
i dunno..i think i am gonna try one.
thanks so much for your help!
~Chris
 
once you do a liner or 2 they really do get easier to work on
with the hardest part being cutting the lock bar and gettign the right lock engagement
 
Chris,

I couldn't find the directions for my DDR3, but IIRC they weren't very helpful anyway. Therefore, I took my DDR3 apart and took some pictures for you. Mine is the auto version, but it uses the same button lock. Essentially, the button lock parts are contained in (or recessed into) the handle bolsters. Hopefully, the pictures will help explain things. (Sorry about the crappiness of the images.)

The knife disassembled.
Button-lock-01.jpg


Button-lock-04.jpg



The button passed through the bolster.
Button-lock-03.jpg


Button-lock-06.jpg


Button-lock-02.jpg



The coil spring removed.
Button-lock-05.jpg

As you can see, the coil spring is recessed into the right bolster, and one end of it hooks into the blade itself. The far (bell shaped) end of the button lock also goes into the right bolster, and the spring under it pushes off that right bolster.
 
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