Buy new, or go vintage?

Z

Zimbabwe

Joined
Jun 4, 2012
Messages
120
Hey y'all,
I have been eyeing the Gransfors bruks small forest axe and Wetterlings large hunting axe for awhile now but have also been thinking about going to local flea markets, yard sales, and surfing The Bay and then trying to pick up an old Plumb or Collins axe head and then refinishing it and re handling it. I do have the time, and hopefully the patience to refinish an old axe head so that's not a problem. Are there any substantial differences between the two, other than it being truly "Yours"? :confused:

Also I am looking for around the 18-20inch range of axes for mainly backpacking and camping, what axe head weight would you recommend for this? The Wetterlings LHA uses an about 1.5lb head I feel this being about the right weight but I am also new to axes so any information would be greatly appreciated.
 
Well, I'm vintage fan, but there are some high quality new axes on the market as well.
I am a big fan of the GB forest axe (not the SFA, I'm not a huge fan of half axes). The GB FA that I have has an OA weight of 2lbs 12oz with the sheath and is 25 1/4" long. The head it's self is suppose to weigh in at 2lbs.
Have you looked into the council tool products? Those are fine tools as well. Their'boys axe is a big hit with a lot of folks including myself.
I would say get a new one that you can use now and also get a couple of nice vintage 'boys axe' size heads and develop your skills on restoration and axe hanging with those.
Then you'll have both :)

A thing about the half axes; IMO, they just arent large enough for much serious work. The FA is plenty light enough to carry backbacking and you will have a much more versital tool.
Just my 2 cents!
 
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I would take a vintage American boy's axe over a GB Forest Axe for most work. I think the convex cheeks of the American axe remove chips more efficiency with less energy wasted pulling out a stuck axe. Even if it only sticks a little it breaks your rhythm. OTOH, if you plan on using your small axe also as a pickaroon then you don't want the convex cheeks. If you want to drag logs back to camp with it then flat cheeks and even a slightly concave bit bevel is the ticket.

Regarding haft length I consider 18"-24" a no man's land. 18" is about as long as you can efficiently use one handed. And 24" is about as short as is still effective two handed, at least for me. 20" feels awkward to me.

For backpacking, if a hatchet is enough axe then save the weight and bring it. If you need a little more axe then think about a boy's axe or a medium sized Hudson's Bay axe. If bushcrafting is your thing then the HB might be a little better than the boy's axe. For the same price as a GB Forest Axe you can get a Velvicut HB.
 
vintage is a good bet. the old stuff was well made, good heat treat and such like geometry of the shape and bit.

it's worth looking at overseas bits. Fiskars makes a very good axe with a light weight polymar handle

buzz
 
I'm a vintage kinda guy, always have been. Sure can't see why anyone would pay a LOT more for a lessor axe. Yard sales and a little knowledge is the place to buy axes IMO. I got a mint Banko 3 pound for $10.00 a mint Hults Bruks hatchet for $5.00 and four assorted good quality heads for 5 bucks each and a couple of nice Canadian marked hatchets also for 5 bucks each.

Best regards

Robin
 
I'd guess it depends on how much it has been used and what and how much you will be using it for. I've been looking for an older ax to refinish and hang. I found a double bit in a thrift shop that had been cleaned up real nice for $12. The problem was a couple of inches had been sharpened off of each bit. The profile looked like a skinny football. I passed on it.
If you can find a vintage ax that maintains its profile at a reasonable price go for it. I will.
If not, you can put the time into a new, inexpensive ax that you would into cleaning up a vintage ax and end up with a very nice tool. Google 'old jimbo', he has some ideas about reprofiling inexpensive axes that can make them into great tools.
 
Thank you everyone so far I will definitely look into the boys axe sizes and Hudson bay style axes.

I do hope sometime in the future I will be able to get an old axe head and do my best to restore it and eventually have my skills honed enough for it to be useable.

Thanks abunch
 
I think the big question that I really asked myself this weekend when out cutting wood when it comes to axes -

There is a big difference between the bushcraft crowd and what they need, and then a working axe, as in regular felling, limbing, bucking, etc. Thats the first thing you have to answer - just what exactly will I be doing? Occasional, or pretty repeated use?

Then we can go from there.
 
I started out with new axes and don't use them nearly as often as my vintage axes. It's a lot of fun to search for them and then practice hanging them, as Bearhunter had mentioned.
Unless you are looking for something ultralight, I've been finding my 2 to 2-1/2 lb axes the most useful for clearing small growth, camping and splitting kindling. My vintage Collins 2-1/2 lb head (CT pattern) on a 28 inch handle most often gets taken into the woods with me. Unless I have a big job, the 3.5 lb stays home.

Chances are, you'll eventually end up with a good amount of axes and find your own favorite. You really can't just get one (or 2 or 3 or 4,,,).
 
Thanks all for your responses so far. I will mostly be using the axe for long backpacking trips, mostly splitting smallish logs (at most 5-6in in diameter) and also for splitting kindling at the house. For car camping or short hike and camp out for a week I will likely be using grandfathers Plumb boys axe or a similar axe. I just feel that the boys axe coming in at around 2.5ish pounds could be come a bit much if I'm hiking at least 3-4 miles a day.
 
A truly sharp hatchet with a properly shaped edge is a powerful little tool. It might be all you need. Shape the edge as shown in this photo and hone it to a razors edge. Even small trees fall quickly with a hatchet so sharpened. Just be careful splitting kindling with it. It'll bleed ya if you're not careful.

Sharpening_gauge_002.jpg
 
Wow that is an excellent diagram, I will definitely try and get my hatchet nice and sharp and test it out. Thank you for the diagram.
 
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