Recommendation? Buying Wicked Edge what stones do i need?

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kaozer

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Apr 22, 2016
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I currently own the spyderco sharpmaker and is overall quite happy with it. but as i became more aware of my preferences concerning my blades, i have figured out that my dear sharpmaker was not "cutting" it anymore. So there went my search to find a sharpening system that can do what the sharpmaker cant. Now the question, could the WE100 do reprofiling while keeping accurate edge geometry that i could afterwards maintain with the sharpmaker and is it worth the money?
 
Imho the wicked edge is worth the outlay,as my knives are traditional slipjoints I got the low angle adapter also.Touchups are easy also,forget the sharpmaker.
 
I think so,tried sharpmaker,lansky,Dmt aligner,edgepro.Ended up with the w/e ,easy repeatable bit of kit.
 
I have had my Wicked Edge for about a week now. I used to sharped on a Sharpmaker. In my opinion the Sharpmaker is great for maintaining an edge where the bevel is already set at 30 or 40 degrees inclusive. In my hands I am able to set the bevel with the WE where I could not do that with the Sharpmaker. In defense of the Spyderco I did not ever purchase the diamond stones, but I am impressed with the WE so far.
 
The WE is very nice. But I made my own, as the WE does not provide for a low enough bevel angle I may need. It is also a bit expensive for my taste.
 
Dingle1911 said:
I have had my Wicked Edge for about a week now. I used to sharped on a Sharpmaker. In my opinion the Sharpmaker is great for maintaining an edge where the bevel is already set at 30 or 40 degrees inclusive. In my hands I am able to set the bevel with the WE where I could not do that with the Sharpmaker. In defense of the Spyderco I did not ever purchase the diamond stones, but I am impressed with the WE so far.
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I agree to that, but let me tell you. The diamond rods are absolutly not worth it! 60$ and you still cant reprofile anything harder than aus8!

And i am looking foward to own one now
 
so i have a new question concerning the Wicked Edge for those who own it. what kind of edge can i expect if i only buy the base kit and the 800/1000 grit stones. is it something similar to, lets say, a spyderco factory edge?

My budget limits me to the base kit + one set of stones. should i get the 800/1000 or grab the 1000/1600 ceramic stones?
 
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kaozer said:
so i have a new question concerning the Wicked Edge for those who own it. what kind of edge can i expect if i only buy the base kit and the 800/1000 grit stones. is it something similar to, lets say, a spyderco factory edge?
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Hi,
What kind of edge is a "spyderco factory edge"?
How are you judging what are you judging?

I though a similar question a year or two ago,
it basically comes down to,
jigs reduces the dexterity/practice required to
keep the angles fixed and makes the edges very flat/even/pretty,
but how sharp the edges get depends on what you're doing
(how much burr if any you raise , how you deburr...)
just like on the sharpmaker (guided freehand)

tricks like head hair whittling are possible at very low grits (200-400) even using freehand
push cutting phonebook/newspaper and beard hair whittling are easier targets

So what can you expect? :)
IIRC spyderco factory edges are 200 grit belt followed by buffer ... so not mirror :)


Consider this image, very shiny, unknown sharpness but probably head hair whittling, and last year (in the last quarter) this jig was selling for $8 shipped
... and still bodog: if you call this crap
lyPBpWl.jpg
 
im not going for a mirror bevel. i would like to know what will give the best sharpness. the base stones + 800/1000 or the 1000/1600 ceramic stones and would the 800/1000 be about the same as using the sharpmaker?
 
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Buy some freehand stones and call it a day! I have no experience with any of the guided systems but freehand sharpening has been more rewarding then my belt sander.. also I can get my edges way sharper then I ever could on that
 
Gradyw said:
Buy some freehand stones and call it a day! I have no experience with any of the guided systems but freehand sharpening has been more rewarding then my belt sander.. also I can get my edges way sharper then I ever could on that
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I have a lot ofrespect for those who can freehand their blades. But i dont particularly like sharpening and definatly dont want to spend two years just to get to the point its to the level of the sharpmaker.
 
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Well if it helps u I would probably get the hapstone? I think it's called. There was a review about it on here it's suppose to be like the wicked edge but a lot cheaper. I may be wrong on the name
 
kaozer said:
im not going for a mirror bevel. i would like to know what will give the best sharpness. the base stones + 800/1000 or the 1000/1600 ceramic stones and would the 800/1000 be about the same as using the sharpmaker?
Click to expand...

I would get the 800/1000 diamonds... especially if you're finishing/maintaining on the Sharpmaker (like you stated in your first post). But even if not... I think the diamonds would be a better next step. They'll be a bit coarser comparing to the Sharpmaker (diamond vs. ceramic... diamond tend to leave a coarser edge). But the 1K diamond is a great edge.
 
I Use the 800/1000 stones ,sharp enough for me but I als use 2000/3000/6000 polish tapes because I like the polished edge.
 
Id get the leather strops for this kit. I don't have this system and can reprofile on a sharpmaker and freehand.
Get it if that is what YOU need.
You get up to 600 grit in basic kit.
You can load the strops with some compound maybe the WE strops are already loaded i don't know. That will make your edges shave easy. You said you don't want mirror edges so you don't want the high grit ceramic. You can always use your SM on a 20 setting if you need that to touch up and make secondary bevel. You will have nice toothy shaving sharp edges granted you know what your doing when it comes to burr.
 
Sergeua said:
Id get the leather strops for this kit. I don't have this system and can reprofile on a sharpmaker and freehand.
Get it if that is what YOU need.
You get up to 600 grit in basic kit.
You can load the strops with some compound maybe the WE strops are already loaded i don't know. That will make your edges shave easy. You said you don't want mirror edges so you don't want the high grit ceramic. You can always use your SM on a 20 setting if you need that to touch up and make secondary bevel. You will have nice toothy shaving sharp edges granted you know what your doing when it comes to burr.
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This is true... and may be a better option.
 
Thanks for the input, really helpfull! I also called at wicked edge and they answered my questions quite thoroughly. They guided me to the 800/1000 grit stones so i could get some nice sharp edge out of the box. Im thinking i might pickup ceramics and strops down the line tough. It could be fun to try for a mirror bevel in a few months. But for now that is enough money spent (600 cad ouch!)
 
kaozer said:
im not going for a mirror bevel. i would like to know what will give the best sharpness. the base stones + 800/1000 or the 1000/1600 ceramic stones and would the 800/1000 be about the same as using the sharpmaker?
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Hi,
According to the-grand-unified-grit-chart.856708
WEPS 1000 is 7micron or P3000 or slightly coarser than spydero fine at about 6micron
WEPS 800 is 12 micron or slightly finer than spyderco medium at 15 micron

But what is "best sharpness"? :D Push cutting sharpness or slicing sharpness?
 
bucketstove said:
Hi,
According to the-grand-unified-grit-chart.856708
WEPS 1000 is 7micron or P3000 or slightly coarser than spydero fine at about 6micron
WEPS 800 is 12 micron or slightly finer than spyderco medium at 15 micron

But what is "best sharpness"? :D Push cutting sharpness or slicing sharpness?
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Well you could say i am still learning and that i didnt really put enough information in my previous post. After reading the links you posted i understand better what you mean. As far as im concerned i am interested in push cutting sharpness for my edc blades but i do plan on doing kitchen knives too so i guess both?
 
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