BWM combat grade grind/coating question

hoopster

hoopster

Joined
Jan 12, 2007
Messages
4,186
There's a possibility I may want to strip the coating from my BWM in the future. My question is, since it's a convex grind, will there be any INFI dimples in the blade or should it be fairly smooth and just need some light sanding/polishing?
Thanks guys.
 
When I stripped mine i had a few along the upper third of the blade. Nothing too deep though. Horndog got rid of all of the dimples on his. I kept them cuz i like the look of them.
 
Jac The Slayer said:
When I stripped mine i had a few along the upper third of the blade. Nothing too deep though. Horndog got rid of all of the dimples on his. I kept them cuz i like the look of them.
Click to expand...

Cool, I don't mind a little character, I just didn't know if it would be so bad I'd have to thin the blade any. I def. don't want to make it any thinner.
 
Mine was pretty rough under the coating, but I'm sure it varies.

Ghetto002.jpg

But I eventually got most of the dimples out.
BWMNaked015.jpg
 
The convex main grind starts somewhere below the spine, and in that upper area you'll probably have the dimples. Here's a shot of my Skinny ASH right after stripping it. You can see the dimples up top and the vertical lines in the main convex grind. Those lines are not terribly deep, but INFI is hard, so it'll probably take more than a little sanding to smooth it all out. ;)

SKASH-HOGASH.jpg
 
Thanks for the pictures guys. What's the best way to polish it out around the micarta, a dremel with buffing wheel and compound?
 
hoopster said:
Thanks for the pictures guys. What's the best way to polish it out around the micarta, a dremel with buffing wheel and compound?
Click to expand...

The best way is to remove the scales and use the platen to sand the ricasso and pommel flat. Then send the knife and scales to Busse to have them put back on. But I never bothered to worry about the dimples there. I just buffed them with a Scotchbrite wheel and called it done. All my Busses are done that way except for the LEs and my green BWM. I have done it on Ranger and RAT Cutlery knives that have removable scales.
 
Then go for it. It really isn't necessary, but some of us like naked INFI and are too cheap to buy the pretty LEs. :D

BWMNaked007.jpg

BWMNaked014.jpg

MyBusses002.jpg
 
You have some of my favorites HD:thumbup:

You did a heck of a job on the Squatch Bowie
 
knife hunter said:
You have some of my favorites HD:thumbup:

You did a heck of a job on the Squatch Bowie
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Thanks, knife hunter. The Squatch Bowie was an accident. I was trying to sharpen the swedge and things got out of hand. It looked terrible, so I did a long clip point to erase my mistake. Now it is one of my favorites.
 
Yes I like that Bowie Squatch as well .... and like HD I tend to just leave the dimples near the ricasso .... if you try and get to them with the belt sander there is a risk of removing the primary grind line on the blade and dovetailing the blade straight into the ricasso .... you can however drill the tube fastener on one side and use a hammer and punch to remove the grips and as HD says then use the platen for the flat sections .... I find gluing on a strip of leather to the platen makes for a much more uniform and comfortable ability to press the knife/belt onto the platen ...

P1000837-1.jpg


If I did remove the tubes and grips I think I might be tempted to buy some "hex bolts" from a knife maker supplier and try those so that the grips could be removed if you wanted to do so for cleaning the knife .... I believe you can get bolts such as these to work as I have seen others do it .... and if you were so inclined you could replace the tubes and flare them using sawn off screw heads and pressing them in to flare the tube using a large vice ....
 
PeterPHWS said:
Yes I like that Bowie Squatch as well .... and like HD I tend to just leave the dimples near the ricasso .... if you try and get to them with the belt sander there is a risk of removing the primary grind line on the blade and dovetailing the blade straight into the ricasso .... you can however drill the tube fastener on one side and use a hammer and punch to remove the grips and as HD says then use the platen for the flat sections .... I find gluing on a strip of leather to the platen makes for a much more uniform and comfortable ability to press the knife/belt onto the platen ...

P1000837-1.jpg


If I did remove the tubes and grips I think I might be tempted to buy some "hex bolts" from a knife maker supplier and try those so that the grips could be removed if you wanted to do so for cleaning the knife .... I believe you can get bolts such as these to work as I have seen others do it .... and if you were so inclined you could replace the tubes and flare them using sawn off screw heads and pressing them in to flare the tube using a large vice ....
Click to expand...

I used allen head screws on mine with orange threadlocker and that worked fine for me.
 
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