Byrd Knives.

S

Spongebobby

Joined
Oct 11, 2010
Messages
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How do you guys like Byrd knives? Are they good knives? I would like to get my younger step brother (11) a good knife, something better than the new winchester which i don't really trust and i was looking at Byrd Knives, input appreciated.
 
I have several and they work just fine. I trust them. I have a Cara cara, a few Meadowlarks, and a few Robins. I've also gifted quite a few and everyone seems to be happy with them.
 
I have a Cara Cara 2 in g10 and its worked out quite well for me. The initial grind was a little shallow so the secondary bevel is larger, this is good for a beginner IMO whose new to sharpening and as a slimline beater knife.

Im personally working on a mod to give the CC2 the round opening hole instead of the funky byrds eye which is a bit of a pain to flick open via thumb or fore finger.
 
Bretsftw, how are you accomplishing that?? I would love to do that to mine.

To OP, they are excellent high value knives, especially the cara car 2 and the meadowlark 2, which are both full flat ground
 
I used a Robin and Meadowlark to whittle these ball and cages. The Robin was too short, the Meadowlark just right. Sharpened with a Sharpmaker and stropped as I carved.

IMG_4226-1.jpg
 
res1cue said:
Bretsftw, how are you accomplishing that?? I would love to do that to mine.
Click to expand...

This isnt guaranteed, its the first time im trying this out YMMV

1. Gather an old cereal box and cut up a strip into some small squares, bigger then the hole in the blade.
2. Somehow measure the size of the hole (For this I used one of the circle templates that are common at drafting stores) and draw that circle out on a square of cardboard, trim out.
3. Layer the cardboard together and glue. let it cure under some weight for best results. (the CC2 has about 4-5layer thickness i find)
4. After a day of curing it should be good to go, trim the rest of the circles. (Here i did the bulk cutting with some a nicely tuned ffg delica, then rounded out the edges with a dremel and fine grit sandpaper attachment)
5. Put the circle cutout inside the hole and add some modeling clay to completely fill the comet tail, make sure to leave one side flush with the blade (I found my old modeling clay used for a game im not gunna mention to try and save face. but the clay is called "green stuff" exactly like the old JB stick weld)
6. Let the clay cure for 24hrs minimum, or as packaging states.
7. Push the whole block out and toss the cardboard, its done its duty, then using a file or dremel carefully remove the access.
8. Using a dremel or file Double bevel all edges on the comet hole and the plug you've created
9. Mix up some JB weld and put it where youve bevelled the edges, Now you can do this one of two ways. 1. fill the whole thing in and let it cure. or 2. be paranoid and act as if this is your 1" plate 1F exam at the AWS. I prefer the latter, though I doubt the results will change to much.
10. It should leave you with a nice round hole and an uglier then all-hell plug but itll do the job. If you really want to make it purdy, sand it up to lets say 1000grit and take some silver paint to it, might blend in, if your willing to try your chemistry add some polish, I have no idea whether this will melt the whole thing or make it look nice, better do some testing prior.

Anywho Like i said im working on it not fiddling with a finished product. Currently on step 6, well see how this goes

To the OP, sorry for thread jacking
 
I agree with others opinions. I have a dozen or so Byrds and they are well made and well finished. The steel is fine for everyday utility use and will take a very fine edge, all the while being easy to sharpen. The Byrds are a great value.
 
I have the gen2 Cara Cara and meadowlark in FRN. Honestly they left much to be desired.

The FRN handles feel really cheap, and the texturing is poor. The lock up has side to side play and a slight amount of up/down. The jimping while 100% functional is a little ugly looking and uneven and the opening hole would be much better off just being a hole, rather then the bird beak or whatever. People say they are good for the money, maybe. I mean they are cheep as hell, if you don't like it your not going to be out much but do yourself a favor and at least get the G10 models.
 
brets-ftw said:
This isnt guaranteed, its the first time im trying this out YMMV

1. Gather an old cereal box and cut up a strip into some small squares, bigger then the hole in the blade.
2. Somehow measure the size of the hole (For this I used one of the circle templates that are common at drafting stores) and draw that circle out on a square of cardboard, trim out.
3. Layer the cardboard together and glue. let it cure under some weight for best results. (the CC2 has about 4-5layer thickness i find)
4. After a day of curing it should be good to go, trim the rest of the circles. (Here i did the bulk cutting with some a nicely tuned ffg delica, then rounded out the edges with a dremel and fine grit sandpaper attachment)
5. Put the circle cutout inside the hole and add some modeling clay to completely fill the comet tail, make sure to leave one side flush with the blade (I found my old modeling clay used for a game im not gunna mention to try and save face. but the clay is called "green stuff" exactly like the old JB stick weld)
6. Let the clay cure for 24hrs minimum, or as packaging states.
7. Push the whole block out and toss the cardboard, its done its duty, then using a file or dremel carefully remove the access.
8. Using a dremel or file Double bevel all edges on the comet hole and the plug you've created
9. Mix up some JB weld and put it where youve bevelled the edges, Now you can do this one of two ways. 1. fill the whole thing in and let it cure. or 2. be paranoid and act as if this is your 1" plate 1F exam at the AWS. I prefer the latter, though I doubt the results will change to much.
10. It should leave you with a nice round hole and an uglier then all-hell plug but itll do the job. If you really want to make it purdy, sand it up to lets say 1000grit and take some silver paint to it, might blend in, if your willing to try your chemistry add some polish, I have no idea whether this will melt the whole thing or make it look nice, better do some testing prior.

Anywho Like i said im working on it not fiddling with a finished product. Currently on step 6, well see how this goes

To the OP, sorry for thread jacking
Click to expand...

Wow, this I gotta see. Make sure to post pics when you are done!!
 
Great value. The FRN on my Robin stuck to my pocket so I put some black epoxy where the clip contacts the FRN and problem solved. I plan on getting a G10, flat ground Cara Cara and Meadowlark.
 
Good Knives And A Great Value, Well Worth The Money. Perfect For A Newer Knife Owner.
Or You Could Step It Up A Little And Get A Spyderco Ambitious, Persistence, Or Tenacious. Which Are Still Really Low Priced And Have That Spyderco Awesomeness.

I Would Also Suggest Checking Out A CRKT Drifter Which Comes In All Stainless Or G-10, I Had The G-10 One, And Traded It Off To My Little Cousin For His Little Beater Cheapo Balisong So He Could Have a Better Knife Lol.

And I Would Also Check Out Kershaw Knives, Great Knives! And You Can Get Some For REALLY Good Prices. I Just Gave My Cousin His First Kershaw(Which Has Been His Favorite Brand For A While, I Let Him Handle Some Of Mine) Yesterday. I Chose The Half Ton, And Passed It Off His Way, He Couldn't Be Happier.
 
They're good value workhorse knives. Certainly not the nicest when it comes to fit, finish, and details, but very good for the price. Based on my limited experience, though, some of the newer Chinese brand knives seem to be more refined.

Johnny R, you have some skills!
 
I have a Byrd Cara Cara 2. For the money I can't complain, but there is noticeable up/down blade play. For a beater knife it's just fine. If you don't mind spending the money I find the similar Endura is a better blade (superior fit, finish and steel) and the Pacific Salt is great (but I'm biased because I love a knife that can play in the rain with no maintenance issues).
 
I think the Cara Cara 2 FRN is the best value out there for under $20.
The FRN is no more cheap looking or feeling than a Griptillian. Blade locks up tight, no play and is centered.
 
Thanks for the kind words lava_lamp and Tsujigiri. The Meadowlark makes a fantastic knife for carving. I had sliced my finger using a slipjoint, so I thought I'd try a locking folder and these Byrds cut micro thin slices off the wood. The only problem with the Robin was it cut into my palm due to the shorter length.
 
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